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About ready to pull engine/transmission assembly-Question

Started by john108, March 15, 2013, 04:51:58 PM

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john108

Hi
I believe I am about ready to pull the engine/transmission assembly !, But.
What provisions do I need to make to put the engine assy down. 
I do have a flat movers dolly, with wheels.  How do you handle this mass.
I would like not to dent or damage anything.
I will need to move it.  It appears to be clumsy.
It may be obvious to the most casual observer, but I haven't been an observer yet!
Thank you for your comments.
John

john108

Another question:
The 2 pictures show the hoist in place.
To be able to clear the front of the car:
1-Should I shorten the chain from the hoist to the load leveler?
2-Should I shorten the 4 chains from the load leveler to the engine?
3- I could extend the length of the hoist to the 1/2 ton position which will provide additional lifting height.

I expect that a whole bunch of our members have learned how to do it, the best way, after a few tries.

I do have a concern that the load leveler could bump into the components on the firewall.

b5blue

I'd pull the carb. and shorten everything as low as possible. Remove anything you can like water pump and housing, Alt. and brackets, anything and everything. Get under the car and lower the front end buy backing off the adjusters, you want the nose low as possible. That's a lot of weight to have dangling off the hoist so be certain you have flat rolling surface and have blocks of wood ready to support the whole mess so you don't crush the pans.  :scratchchin:

Brightyellow69rtse

definalty shorten everything up as stated above. i did it without a load leveler. it was awkward but it came out ok. a second person was definatly needed to keep the tranny from smacking into everything on the way out.  take your time and keep looking at your clearances and youll be fine.

b5blue

Also drain all oils/fluids, remove exhaust manifolds to save weight.  :2thumbs:

ACUDANUT

That set up looks like a nightmare. The Chain should be short at the front of engine and long at the back, if your pulling the trans out at the same time. 2 People are a big plus.

john108

I will shorten all the chains.

Many members have had their engines dynoed and I don't expect that they removed the carb to install. 
They may not have had the trans attached at the time??

ACUDANUT: With the load levelor, do you still think the chains should have different lengths??

I am not sure what to expect.  One comment that I have seen stated raise the front of the car so the transmission can rotate down.  Another stated lower the front end.  Is it possible that both have to be done in sequence?? 

I am hoping that the hoist can lift high enough for the assy to clear the front of the body. 
I have the hoist set to the 1 ton length. 
If I were to extend it to the 1/2 ton(1000 pounds) setting, that would allow additional lifting height. 
I am not sure if that is acceptable.

b5blue

Honestly I have never pulled/installed the engine AND tranny at the same time on my 70 Charger. That 440 is pretty hairy all by itself hanging up there! (As usual I'm alone with no backup.) Going in I installed the short block, then installed the iron heads, six pack exhaust manifolds. (Again solo.) The factory came in from under mounted on the K frame.  :scratchchin:

john108

OK - I removed the Carb.
I shortened all chains.
The hoist is still set to the 1 ton length.
The pictures show the chains under tension.

I think that after the engine clears the motor mounts,
it can be pulled it forward as it is rotated with the load leveler.

I hope that with lifting and rotating, it will clear the frame where the radiator was.
Do you believe it will clear or should I increase the length of the hoist arm to the 1/2 ton position, which will provide additional height ???  I am not sure this is wise.

469 runner

Honestly I've never removed an engine and trans. together, seems too clumsy, but I think you would have an easier time if you extended the boom on the hoist as far out as possible.  You are going to need all the height you can get as the transmission rotates down to clear the firewall.  Good Luck.



chargersb71

Most definitely I would shorten those chains like you have done.  Have the front as low as you can get it and there shouldn't be a problem.   Oh and get some help if you can.  I do a lot by myself but would love to have some help a lot of times.  As far as something to put the engine assembly on I would get an engine stand and old tire works in a pinch.  The load leveler is a big help.  You want to be able to raise that engine and trans. as high as you can to clear your vehicle.  Good luck if I was closer would be more than happy to help also would loan you an engine stand.

john108

I have read other posts and have some concerns:

I know that we want the car front low to be able to lift the engine-transmission assembly high enough over it.
Another post stated to raise the front of the car about a foot so that the transmission tail-shaft will clear the ground as the assembly is rotated.  I am a little confused on what to expect.

If I lengthened the arm on the hoist to the 1000 lb (1/2 ton) position, is there a safety issue with weight???  This is a Harbor Freight Hoist.  I don't know the combined weight of the assembly I am removing?

I have the car raised (jack stands, under frame, behind front wheels) now so I can remove the transmission cross-brace and motor mount bolts.  The front tires are hanging about 6 inches off the ground.  All bolts/nuts arel loosened but still in place until the last few minutes.  I may have to consider lowering the car after the transmission clears the ground??  Has anybody performed this maneuver??

NHCharger

I just yanked the motor and tranny (440/727A)out of my 68 Charger last month. I would not lengthen the arm to 1,000 lbs. I did remove the headers but only because they were junk and I'm not reusing them. Yes this is a two person job. Do a test run first. Lift the motor up about 6", you will get an idea from that on what might be in the way. I had a floor jack on each side under the frame. Once I got the motor raised up and made sure I was clearing everything in the engine bay we lowered the jacks all the way down and removed the engine. I had even let the air out of the front tires to drop the front end as low as it could go but ended up setting the K frame on top of the legs of the hoist :slap:
72 Charger- Base Model
68 Charger-R/T Clone
69 Charger Daytona clone
79 Lil Red Express - future money pit
88 Ramcharger 4x4- current money pit
55 Dodge Royal 2 door - wife's money pit
2014 RAM 2500HD Diesel

darkside


469 runner

Just to save all the insecurity in this, why not just separate the engine from the trans before pulling the engine, or unbolt K-member and raise car off.  You could have had the engine out days ago.  Don't worry, be happy.

jlatessa

Raise the rear of the car as high as you can on jack stands,,
that will give you both additional clearance for the tail shaft and lower the
front a few inches for removal clearance.  

Go SLOWLY and you'll be OK.

Joe

ACUDANUT

Quote from: 469 runner on March 17, 2013, 10:52:38 AM
Just to save all the insecurity in this, why not just separate the engine from the trans before pulling the engine, or unbolt K-member and raise car off.  You could have had the engine out days ago.  Don't worry, be happy.

Oh boy, do we have some bad advise here.  How many of these jobs have you done 469 runner. ? none.

469 runner

Well, not to get into a pissing match here...But you shouldn't comment about people you don't know.  And..I've done plenty.  This is the way these drivetrains were installed at the factory, from below, definetely the easiest way.    

john108

There  are quite a bit of good recommendations here.  I thank all of you.
I will be trying to combine options from the comments/help provided here.

I will first go find a tire to rest the assembly on.
I pumped the un-weighted hoist up to maximum and there may be enough height available.
But, will be prepared to adjust for the un-expected. 
After all mounting bolts are removed, I will see how the assy hangs and see how it lifts and tilts.
I will lower the car off the jack stands as soon as possible.
I will be prepared to let the air out of the front tires and consider putting the jack stands near the rear tires.
We will see what is needed and what happens.
I will probably get to it next weekend as help is not always easy to find.
Thank you all, again.  -John

Cooter

I see a potential prroblem with those long bolts at the end of the chains. You need to have the chain bolted next to intake. I see some bent/broken bolts....Would SUCK to get that thing almost out and a bolt breaks CRUSHING your rad. support. (Yes, don't ask me how I know :D)

As stated, I've installed/removed engines such as your set up the way you are going and it isn't easy, or time saving, but it can be done.

Take your time and you really should get at least ONE mroe person to help guide the trans around and out of the engine bay before it ends up through your windshield.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

mopar0166

About to pull a 318/904 out  , good read

what are good lift point for the chain?  thats the only thing im confused about? 

maxwellwedge

Adjust the chain so the whole thing has a downward tilt towards the trans end. Keep the bolts short like Cooter said......grab a buddy or two to make sure the engine isn't smashing the firewall etc. and to make sure the hoist doesn't tip over. Then crank and yank. Done tons this way.

john108

Cooter:  I went with the longer bolts because earlier suggestions stated to use bolts 2 inches longer than I took out (1.5 inch).  I will go and get 2 inch long bolts, to account for the chain thickness.  Note: I did have a concern that the long bolts would bend.
The windshield has been removed.

maxwellwedge: I thought that the load leveler would allow me to adjust the tilt once the assembly is lifted out of the motor mounts??  Lift, pull forward, then tilt.  If I don't see something, PLEASE correct my thinking.

mopar0166: I don't know anything about a 318, but I have my 4 bolts going through the 4 corners of the intake manifold into the HEADS.