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I need some help whit my 440 rt

Started by brumono, March 12, 2013, 03:37:59 PM

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brumono

Hello, my name is Bruno, I have long been following your forum karma thank you for me you have been a great help in the reconstruction of my dodge charger rt 68 440, so I thank you and congratulate you for the great forum that you have and for the help you all lend to all the people like me.
I began to restore my charger 68 with my father a year ago I live in Spain and here everything related to getting everything an American car is impossible, just finished rebuilding the engine and install it in the car and now we are testing to put in up and that's when I lso problems arise I hope you can help me.
The engine is a 440 rt, this standard restored with new parts imported from USA, this rebuilt Carburetor is a Hollye 4150 is the one with the original engine installed and is the only part not post new car and not e changed Intake manifold and cylinder heads, I installed pèrfonance Mopar electronic ignition.
My problem is:
1 when the motor starts I have to accelerate and keep the throttle to the end and not stop when I release this a little and let the car stand throws a flame by the air filter.
2I have  one gun ignition but as the engine is not maintained at a constant RPM I can not tune the distributor advance so this tune by ear.
3 and tried to make carburetor adjustments exactly as they were before rebuilding but not set the same, can you tell me how to give a standard configuration to start my settings, as it could, and read as many things and all of them need the engine to normal operating temperature and low RPM and I that I can not get my engine because if I were to Expedited.

thank you all in advance for your help, greetings from Spain, thanks.

areibel

Hello Bruno!
Let me see if I understand your problems-
1, When you start the car you have to give it lots of gas, or it dies out and backfires through the carb?
2, your gun, do you mean a timing light?  You can't get the timing light to work so you're just moving the distributor to keep it running?
3, you're trying to set up your carb?

If I'm reading your problem right, it sounds like you have a timing problem.  Did you install the camshaft yourself?  If it's a new cam, did you follow the manufacturer's recommendations for installation on centerline?  
And before you installed the distributor, are you sure the motor was on top dead center, and you had the rotor pointing in the right direction for the #1 spark plug?   A problem with either of these could be the reason you have problems #1 and #2!  
And the carb- I am not a carb expert, especially for Holley carbs but I do know if you've been backfiring a lot you may have damaged a power valve.  There are a couple guys on here that can probably tell you more, or try searching for Holley Carb Tuning, there is a lot of info out there.
Keep the questions coming!
Al

bobs66440

Also, double check to make sure all the spark plug wires are routed correctly. Many times, this can be traced to mixed wires.

And as mentioned, get #1 piston to TDC on compression stroke (timing mark lined up with 0 on the timing tab), line up distributor rotor with #1 post on the distributor cap, then turn the distributor a little clockwise to get it around 10-12 deg BTDC. That should get it close enough to fire and get a timing light on it.

brumono

Hello, first of all thanks for the responses of all the help and I'm receive state of all people.Today i tested and trying all the things you have told me and the results are as follows, Areibel when the engine starts I have to speed up a bit to not stop if I rev the engine RPM goes down and eventually to only check the carburetor fire at that moment in time is for accelerated if all goes well and stays in place.
My gun is timming light yes.
My father is a mechanic and he helped me install the camshaft but now my father is ill and he dont help whit me .
Today and checked the tuning of the distributor, and set to 0 the crankshaft and the dealer showed perfectly the spark plug 1, then as you told me and advanced 12 º the dealer, and checked all the spark plugs and wires distributor and all are where are the order of Explosion is correct, and checked the compression cylinder heads and cylinders are all perfectly above 150psi, after all this the engine still doing the same boots I keep a little fast and brother stopped accelerating fire strip filter output air.
I have a question, I could use my timming light to set up and disher icard my thinning dealer or as the engine is accelerated if I advance or delay my dealer it fails badly tuned?, Note that the first times I started the engine collectors exhaust heated too much too fast but the butts were not hot, I do not know if this will give some clue to something, one thing is sure is tuned carburetor tried to leave it as it was and the dealer is the same but had become the mopar performance kit for electronic distribution.
Thanks again and forgive my English, thank you.

ACUDANUT

Forget TDC for now. Pull spark plug/cylinder #1 and slowly have someone "milk the starter" when you feel a strong push of air comming out of #1. re-insatll sparkplug and set timing (correctly).
Do that first, then talk to me.

areibel

Here's a good link that tells you how to get set up.  You do need to find TDC, if you've got the distributor off one tooth or something else odd you really need to know that you're starting at the right spot.

http://www.mopartech.net/showthread.php?t=357

Don't use the starter, turn the motor over slowly by hand.  Take all the plugs out and use a socket on the crank bolt to turn it over.  When you're sure you're on TDC, check the distributor.  Make sure the rotor is lined up with #1 spark plug tower.  I wouldn't try to advance anything yet.  Put the plugs back in, make sure the firing order is right, no crossed spark plug wires and try it that way.  It should start and run, probably not great but then you can start checking the timing- I'd try advancing it by hand a little to get it running smooth before I tried the timing light. 
There are a lot of other little things to check too- make sure you don't have any open vacuum ports, everything should be plugged and make sure there aren't any cracked or broken vac lines.  Once you get it where it will idle then you can start sorting out the other problems. 

brumono

Hola , gracias a todos por vuestras respuestas ,siento haber tardado tanto en responder pero no e tenido mucho tiempo ultimamente . Lo de el TDC ya estaba y esta comprobado y esta perfecto una vez mas puse a mano el TDC y el distribuidor esta en la bujia numero 1, e revisado el orden de explosion y todos los cables de bujias estan conectados correctamente ,una pequeña duda que me surge es que en mis libros me aparece el orden de exlplosion en sentido horario y en otros en sentido antihorario si no me equivoco el sentido correcto en el motor 440 rt es sentido antihorario ,comprobe la compresion una vez mas y es perfceta en todos los cilindros es imposible que una valvula funcione mal o no cierre, con respecto al tema de los baccum no tengo muy claro cual es el lugar correcto para conectarlos pero no creo ke influyan mucho a la hora del backfire aparece este fallo solo pasa cuando el coche se para solo bajando las RPM cuando se para tira el fuego , ademas no puedo conseguir afinar el carburador y una vez que arranco si no acelero el motor se para , e revisado el carburador muy afondo y no encuentro la causa del mal funcionamiento , pero empiezo a pensar que el carburador esta mal ya que nunca e visto el coche en marcha puede ser que el anterior propietario ya lo tubiera roto antes de vender el coche , cuando este llego a mi estaba en muy mal estado y parcialmente desmontado el motor por esto mis sospechas de que alguna pieza del carburador falte o este rota ya que faltaban otras piezas del motor como sensores filtros y demas , me podriais orientar para poder comprar un carburador nuevo que sea de iguales caracteristicas que el que traia de origen , como sabeis es un charger 68 RT 440 . Hoy mi padre pudo ayudarme y llegamos a la determinacion que el fuego es devido a que el carburador inyecta cantidades muy grandes de combustible y esto hace que los cilindros no consigan quemar todo el combustible , que los colectores de escape se calienten tan rapido por que el combustible sale aun ardiendo por ellos y que es lo que hace que el coche se pare cuando le acelero un poco despues de arrancarlo ,esto explicaria todas y cada uno de los problemas que tengo con mi recien reconstruido motor .
Hello, thank you all for your answers, I'm sorry I took so long to respond but not had much time lately and.
What of the TDC and this was already proven and is perfect once again started to hand the TDC and the distributor is in the number 1 spark plug, and checked the firing order and spark plug all cables are connected properly, little doubt that comes to me is that I get my books in order exlplosion clockwise and counterclockwise other if I remember correctly the right direction in the motor is 440 rt counterclockwise compression checked once again and is perfceta in all cylinders is impossible that a malfunctioning valve or closure on the issue of baccum I have very clear which is the right place to connect but not much think ke influence of backfire when you get this error only happens when the car is for just down the RPM when to pull the fire, plus I can not get tuning carburetor and once I start if not accelerate the engine stops, and very afond revised carburetor and can not find the cause of the malfunction, but start think that the carburetor is wrong and having never seen the car in gear may be that the previous owner tubiera already broken before selling the car, when this came to me was in very poor condition and partially disassembled the engine so my suspicions that any piece is missing or broken carburetor and missing other engine parts like filters and other sensors, you could guide me to buy a new carburetor that is of the same characteristics as the one who brought home, as you know is a 68 charger RT 440.
Today my father could help and came to the determination that the fire is the carburetor devido injected large amounts of fuel and this makes the cylinders fail to burn all the fuel, the exhaust manifolds are heated so fast that the even burning fuel leaves for them and that is what makes the car stop when he accelerated a bit after starting, this would explain each and every one of the problems I have with my newly rebuilt engine.

brumono

Hello, thank you all for your answers, I'm sorry I took so long to respond but not had much time lately and.
What of the TDC and this was already proven and is perfect once again started to hand the TDC and the distributor is in the number 1 spark plug, and checked the firing order and spark plug all wires are connected properly, little doubt that comes to me is that I get my books in order exlplosion clockwise and counterclockwise other if I remember correctly the right direction in the motor is 440 rt counterclockwise compression checked once again and is perfect in all cylinders is impossible that a malfunctioning valve or closure on the issue of baccum I have very clear which is the right place to connect but not much think ke influence of backfire when you get this error only happens when the car is for just down the RPM when to pull the fire, plus I can not get tuning carburetor and once I start if not accelerate the engine stops, and very afond revised carburetor and can not find the cause of the malfunction, but start think that the carburetor is wrong and having never seen the car in gear may be that the previous owner have  already broken before selling the car, when this came to me was in very poor condition and partially disassembled the engine so my suspicions that any piece is missing or broken carburetor and missing other engine parts like filters and other sensors, you could guide me to buy a new carburetor that is of the same characteristics as the one who brought home, as you know is a 68 charger RT 440.
Today my father could help and came to the determination that the fire is the carburetor due injected large amounts of fuel and this makes the cylinders fail to burn all the fuel, the exhaust manifolds are heated so fast that the even burning fuel leaves for them and that is what makes the car stop when he accelerated a bit after starting, this would explain each and every one of the problems I have with my newly rebuilt engine.Tanhks for all

brumono

I'm thinking of putting this 750CFM Holley 0-80459SA, but the Holley web  says it does not work holley with automatic transmission overdribe, this will cause problems with my 727 TorqueFlite. Greetings :icon_smile_wink:

mhinders

Bruno,
you need to do the following:
- set engine to compression stroke of cylinder 1
- set engine to top dead center on cyl 1 on the compression stroke
- check that the rotor in the distributor is pointing to the cyl 1 ignition cable
- check that the ignition cables going counterclockwise around the distributor are going to the correct cylinders http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=114
http://boxwrench.net/specs/bchrys_B.htm

If all that is OK, then look at the Holley.
- carefully close the idle mixture screws (very light touch only). Open them 1-1.5 turns.

Now try to start the engine.
- Look at the exhausts...do you have black smoke, or blue smoke, or white smoke? Or no smoke at all?
- Listen to the engine, do you hear all cylinders or does it sound like you have just a few cylinders firing? If you have headers you can feel which cylinders are cold, i.e. dead.
- Look at the spark plugs. Are they dirty, black and sooty, some dry and some wet?

Let us know what's happening.

Martin
Dodge Charger 1967, 512 cui, E85, MegaSquirt MS3X sequential ignition and injection

brumono

Hello Mhinders
I checked all the things you say in your post, everything is correct, the distributor rotor position is correct, the cylinder 1 TDC position is correct, the compresion in this cilinder is 150 up the firing order is correct in the distributor cap, and set the dops carburetor needles as I indicate, now the problem is difficult to start and when it does the engine stops if not a little faster, the fire is still out of the carburetor and the exhaust will not smoke of any color observed that the engine does not round either, I'm afraid this anymore because the carburetor fire whenever the motor could burn my car, I'll buy you p a new carburetor and begins to test, I still hear your answers thanks for all guys. :rotz:

brumono

Hi guys,I change the valve power for my carb and backfire are disappeared,Im very lucky,but now I need tune my carburetor and adjust the distributor point,everything suggest?thanks for all

areibel

That's good news Bruno!
I can't help you much with tuning your carb, maybe make a new topic under the "Performance Corner" board here?
The Holley guys can get them working great!

brumono

Hello, I have a question I hope some of you, Answer me, been watching my exhaust manifolds specifically two plants of each collector tubes heat a lot more than the front or rear tubes on both sides of the engine, and in some cases to be almost incandescent about 210 º C near about 411 º F this is normal?, could you tell me your hot do collectors, is a newly rebuilt 440 stock perfonance, greetings.

jlatessa

Bruno, you can install a Holley "power valve check ball kit" (#125-500) that will prevent
blowing out another valve. one less thing to worry about when trouble-shooting....Joe

brumono

Hi ,please any people respond my question about the temp in exaust colector,thanks many thanks for all