Who wants to Megasquirt, full sequential fuel/ spark a 68 charger! This Guy!!

[grnfsh]

Do you guys use and O2 sensor on both sides (2) or just one?

[MechTech]

I use O2 sensors on both sides of the motor. What I have found with my setup is the sensors do not read the same, below 5000rpm the left side reads leaner than the right above 5000rpm the right side goes leaner. The good news is because of the sequential setup fuel can be adjusted per cylinder I increased fuel to each cylinder on the right above 5000rpm. After doing that I was able to get it to 10.86

[grnfsh]

Interesting, thanks, I think I am planning on one on each collector.

[redmist]

Mine is in the X pipe.

[Aussiemadonmopars]

Mine is in the X pipe.

It would be interesting to see what the readings would be if you were to put in two O2 sensors and whether you would have similar readings to other people's setups. You could see if other heads, porting and compression makes a difference. I suspect the difference between the O2 levels on each side means, that is why a throttle body injection setup would work better. However if the multipoint/sequential setup is better tuned than it would probably produce more power.

[grnfsh]

My understanding is that you want the o2 sensor in the collector of the header, before it meets the rest of the exhaust. This reduces the possibility of an exhaust leak compromising the reading by introducing external air to the sensor.

[MechTech]

My intention over this winter is to put O2 bungs in each header tube 6 inch's or so prior to the collector and run 4 O2 sensors. Air flow is different per cylinder for many reasons so I want to take advantage of being able to adjust fuel per cylinder and see what kind of performance gains I can achieve. I guess that's a bit anal but its like I said before there are lots of toys in the Megasquirt box so this is the next one I want to play with.

[Aussiemadonmopars]

My intention over this winter is to put O2 bungs in each header tube 6 inch's or so prior to the collector and run 4 O2 sensors. Air flow is different per cylinder for many reasons so I want to take advantage of being able to adjust fuel per cylinder and see what kind of performance gains I can achieve. I guess that's a bit anal but its like I said before there are lots of toys in the Megasquirt box so this is the next one I want to play with.

I don't think it's being anal at all. It's being smart and taking advantage of the tools and abilities you have at hand. 

[grnfsh]

My intention over this winter is to put O2 bungs in each header tube 6 inch's or so prior to the collector and run 4 O2 sensors. Air flow is different per cylinder for many reasons so I want to take advantage of being able to adjust fuel per cylinder and see what kind of performance gains I can achieve. I guess that's a bit anal but its like I said before there are lots of toys in the Megasquirt box so this is the next one I want to play with.

I don't think it's being anal at all. It's being smart and taking advantage of the tools and abilities you have at hand. 

i agree, that should be pretty cool. Can't wait to see how you mount and run everything. Also if you see any gains

[grnfsh]

Hey Guys quick question about the crank sensor wiring.

Coming from the MS the shielded wire has 3 wires inside it. White, black and an uninsulated wire. My sensor (MS hall sensor) has 3 wires, white, black , red. Red should go to 12v, and then join the white and black to their respective colors. What do I do with the uninsulated wire?

[Black_Bee]

Hey Guys quick question about the crank sensor wiring.

Coming from the MS the shielded wire has 3 wires inside it. White, black and an uninsulated wire. My sensor (MS hall sensor) has 3 wires, white, black , red. Red should go to 12v, and then join the white and black to their respective colors. What do I do with the uninsulated wire?

That bare wire is the grounded shield wire and should not be hooked up to anything.

[grnfsh]

Hey Guys quick question about the crank sensor wiring.

Coming from the MS the shielded wire has 3 wires inside it. White, black and an uninsulated wire. My sensor (MS hall sensor) has 3 wires, white, black , red. Red should go to 12v, and then join the white and black to their respective colors. What do I do with the uninsulated wire?

That bare wire is the grounded shield wire and should not be hooked up to anything.

ok, that's what I thought the diagram was showing me but I was a bit confused. Thanks!!!!

[grnfsh]

quick question, where did you guys pull 5v from for  the cam sensor?  Did you use the same as the TPS wire?

[Black_Bee]

quick question, where did you guys pull 5v from for  the cam sensor?  Did you use the same as the TPS wire?

I used the same 5V line to feed everything that wanted 5V.

[grnfsh]

ok, guys new topic.  Alternators

i want to upgrade my alternator while i'm at it because well, I probably need to adding extra electronics. I've removed the original ignition wiring harness from the car and don't plan to use it again.

I like the 440 Source alternator or something like it. What did you guys who upgraded go with and how did you wire it if you didnt use the factory harness?

[Black_Bee]

ok, guys new topic.  Alternators

i want to upgrade my alternator while i'm at it because well, I probably need to adding extra electronics. I've removed the original ignition wiring harness from the car and don't plan to use it again.

I like the 440 Source alternator or something like it. What did you guys who upgraded go with and how did you wire it if you didnt use the factory harness?

I used a 440 Source kit, but I am 99% sure that you could just use stock brackets (with a slight massaging) and a store-bought Denso alternator.  Also, the kit doesn't come with the pigtail for the alternator for some reason.

The connector I used was this one: http://www.repairconnector.com/products/Mitsubishi-Nippondenso-Alternator-Repair-Connector-3-Wire-Round.html

I fried the alternator that 440 Source sent me and ordered this one from Amazon to replace and its identical.  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5WBHS

I ran a large gauge wire to the starter relay for the output wire, and a couple of smaller sense wires to the same place.  I bypassed my dash's ammeter too.

I think its only a 60 amp alternator, but it keeps up with my electrical load just fine so far. Really, other than the in-tank Stealth 340 pump and the EFI related bits (none of it is very power hungry), my car's electrical needs are kind of low as I have no stereo or electric fan (I plan to add both at some point).  I do have upgraded headlights which I suppose are a bit of a draw too.

[redmist]

My understanding is that you want the o2 sensor in the collector of the header, before it meets the rest of the exhaust. This reduces the possibility of an exhaust leak compromising the reading by introducing external air to the sensor.

That's my understanding as well, but I got lazy.. hah!

[redmist]

ok, guys new topic.  Alternators

i want to upgrade my alternator while i'm at it because well, I probably need to adding extra electronics. I've removed the original ignition wiring harness from the car and don't plan to use it again.

I like the 440 Source alternator or something like it. What did you guys who upgraded go with and how did you wire it if you didnt use the factory harness?

I used a 440 Source kit, but I am 99% sure that you could just use stock brackets (with a slight massaging) and a store-bought Denso alternator.  Also, the kit doesn't come with the pigtail for the alternator for some reason.

The connector I used was this one: http://www.repairconnector.com/products/Mitsubishi-Nippondenso-Alternator-Repair-Connector-3-Wire-Round.html

I fried the alternator that 440 Source sent me and ordered this one from Amazon to replace and its identical.  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5WBHS

I ran a large gauge wire to the starter relay for the output wire, and a couple of smaller sense wires to the same place.  I bypassed my dash's ammeter too.

I think its only a 60 amp alternator, but it keeps up with my electrical load just fine so far. Really, other than the in-tank Stealth 340 pump and the EFI related bits (none of it is very power hungry), my car's electrical needs are kind of low as I have no stereo or electric fan (I plan to add both at some point).  I do have upgraded headlights which I suppose are a bit of a draw too.

I used a 120amp Denso unit for a John Deere tractor.

It just barely fits from bracket to head! It's a larger unit depth wise, but the price is just right.



http://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-AND0221-Alternator-Tractor/dp/B00Q8LROIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447722562&sr=8-1&keywords=denso+120+amp+alternator+John+Deere

[grnfsh]

ok, guys new topic.  Alternators

i want to upgrade my alternator while i'm at it because well, I probably need to adding extra electronics. I've removed the original ignition wiring harness from the car and don't plan to use it again.

I like the 440 Source alternator or something like it. What did you guys who upgraded go with and how did you wire it if you didnt use the factory harness?

I used a 440 Source kit, but I am 99% sure that you could just use stock brackets (with a slight massaging) and a store-bought Denso alternator.  Also, the kit doesn't come with the pigtail for the alternator for some reason.

The connector I used was this one: http://www.repairconnector.com/products/Mitsubishi-Nippondenso-Alternator-Repair-Connector-3-Wire-Round.html

I fried the alternator that 440 Source sent me and ordered this one from Amazon to replace and its identical.  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5WBHS

I ran a large gauge wire to the starter relay for the output wire, and a couple of smaller sense wires to the same place.  I bypassed my dash's ammeter too.

I think its only a 60 amp alternator, but it keeps up with my electrical load just fine so far. Really, other than the in-tank Stealth 340 pump and the EFI related bits (none of it is very power hungry), my car's electrical needs are kind of low as I have no stereo or electric fan (I plan to add both at some point).  I do have upgraded headlights which I suppose are a bit of a draw too.

I used a 120amp Denso unit for a John Deere tractor.

It just barely fits from bracket to head! It's a larger unit depth wise, but the price is just right.



http://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-AND0221-Alternator-Tractor/dp/B00Q8LROIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447722562&sr=8-1&keywords=denso+120+amp+alternator+John+Deere

Redmist, you are using your stock brackets with that alt?

[MechTech]

A friend of mine used a 440source alternator and had some problem with it. I used a Powermaster 110amp alternator it looks like a GM I used the original brackets with some modification its a single wire unit so I just connected it to the battery bulkhead that I installed in the firewall the battery is in the trunk. I saw an add in the February 2016 addition of Mopar Action it was for Flaming River Industries www.flamingriver.com they have a 150amp and 240 amp alternator single wire so its easy to connect and they are made in the USA

[grnfsh]

Just checked out he Flaming river units. They are like $600 for the cheap one.

[redmist]

ok, guys new topic.  Alternators

i want to upgrade my alternator while i'm at it because well, I probably need to adding extra electronics. I've removed the original ignition wiring harness from the car and don't plan to use it again.

I like the 440 Source alternator or something like it. What did you guys who upgraded go with and how did you wire it if you didnt use the factory harness?

I used a 440 Source kit, but I am 99% sure that you could just use stock brackets (with a slight massaging) and a store-bought Denso alternator.  Also, the kit doesn't come with the pigtail for the alternator for some reason.

The connector I used was this one: http://www.repairconnector.com/products/Mitsubishi-Nippondenso-Alternator-Repair-Connector-3-Wire-Round.html

I fried the alternator that 440 Source sent me and ordered this one from Amazon to replace and its identical.  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5WBHS

I ran a large gauge wire to the starter relay for the output wire, and a couple of smaller sense wires to the same place.  I bypassed my dash's ammeter too.

I think its only a 60 amp alternator, but it keeps up with my electrical load just fine so far. Really, other than the in-tank Stealth 340 pump and the EFI related bits (none of it is very power hungry), my car's electrical needs are kind of low as I have no stereo or electric fan (I plan to add both at some point).  I do have upgraded headlights which I suppose are a bit of a draw too.

I used a 120amp Denso unit for a John Deere tractor.

It just barely fits from bracket to head! It's a larger unit depth wise, but the price is just right.



http://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-AND0221-Alternator-Tractor/dp/B00Q8LROIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447722562&sr=8-1&keywords=denso+120+amp+alternator+John+Deere

Redmist, you are using your stock brackets with that alt?

Nope, I am using the brackets for the Denso offered in kit form on the web.

[grnfsh]

ok i'm trouble shooting here. I am running my composite logger and trying to read a good cam and crank signal. I seem to have a good crank signal but have sync errors. I also cannot find how to select cam signal. Here is a screen shot of my logger

[grnfsh]

actually along those lines. I dont think I set my cam imput on the board. Is the Jeep cam sensor a Hall/optic or VR?

[grnfsh]

ok I made some adjustments. Here is what I'm getting now.