Who wants to Megasquirt, full sequential fuel/ spark a 68 charger! This Guy!!

[shawge]

It should work, from:
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/using_megasquirt_with_msd_distributors.htm

MSD Flying Magnet crank triggers also work in the same way as their magnetic pickup distributors as far as the MegaSquirt is concerned.

[grnfsh]

Seems it would be better just to run a 36-1 wheel or something of the sort than the MSD Crank trigger. Not to mention the price of those things.  I suppose you get the ease of installation and not having to worry about dialing it in correctly

[grnfsh]

So I'm still stuck on the trigger wheel questions. Maybe i'm not processing information correctly.

My concern is getting a 36-1 wheel, cutting the inside of it correctly so it fits over the pulley without too much gap so it can be welded and the welding it in the correct position.

1. What did you guys use to cut the inside of the trigger wheel so it fits over the pulley? Hole saw?

2. How did you orient the #1 tooth to the pulley, how did you know where to put it?

3. How deep did you weld it on the pulley hat and how did you keep it straight? Did you make a jig of some sort?

[redmist]

Go to page 2 of this thread, and check out how I had mine setup in relation to tooth count, and TDC.


I got my wheel from RollingThunder here on the board, but my plan was to cut the inside out with a lathe. Take a skim pass on the outside of the pulley to make a small shoulder, press the wheel on, and tack weld.

RollingThunder had already done basically exactly that, so i used the one he was going to toss!


Orientation isn't all that important as you will be able to change it in the software, but seting it up as I did on page 2 is correct way to do it.

[grnfsh]

I didnt think about turning it down to make a "shoulder" thats a great idea. 

I need to get a lathe...

[grnfsh]

RedMist

I'm just about through with assembly of the MS3, I'm looking at your picture here.  I see some jumper wires (Yellow) but can seem to find instructions for that. Can you help me out here? What are they for and what do you have them connected too?

ECU Finished up

The yellow wires are jumpers for the Idle Air Control valve stepper motor.

Something to take note about the Megasquirt system. You will notice the SD card slot. This is a logging card that can be removed and taken to a computer to view whatever log you have setup in the tuning. This was the ultimate feature that sold me on Megasquirt! Also the USB tuning function, and the "AutoTune" that is found in Tuner Studio.

I got the board tested, and hooked up to tuner studio. So far so good!!! if anyone is on the fence about this, the documentation is so good, that you should not hesitate. This system destroys the other offerings on the market at a much smaller cost!

I still need to install the "X" expansion that will give me 8 channels of spark control. It's a simple ad on board.

Here is a basic list of what is included on what I have built here as standard:

VE and ignition tables are now both 16 x 16
0.1% steps on VE table, 0.1 degree steps on ignition table
Socket for an onboard SD card - no laptop required for data logging  (SD Card not included)
Built in USB port
GM stepper IAC control
Closed loop idle and mixture control
CANBus communications for interface with GPIO Board, IO Extender, or other devices
Staged injection
Native support for many different OEM trigger patterns
8 Sequential fuel injection outputs. Each can drive a high impedance injector, and unused injection outputs can be put to other purposes.
8 Logic level 5 volt ignition outputs. Works with many types of ignition modules and coils, including LSx coils and our IGN-1As. Requires external module or coils with internal ignitors.
6 Medium current outputs. Use for 2 stage progressive nitrous, boost control, tach output, 3 wire idle speed control, general purpose PWM or relay control, or many other potential applications.
3 Analog inputs. Use for an external MAP sensor, second O2 sensor, fuel pressure, accelerometer, or general data logging.
4 Switch inputs. Can be used to start data logging, arm a nitrous system, switch tables, launch control, VSS input (with external conditioner), and more.
1 Cam sensor input. Can be used with VR, Hall, or optical sensors.




And a picture of the ECU operating off of the "STIM" to check function in Tuner Studio:

[redmist]

Those jumpers are for your idle valve configuration. it can be configured on the board depending on how you plan to do idle control. I used a GM style IACV so the jumpers were setup to accommodate that.

Refer to step 26 in the ms assembly instructions here:  http://msextra.com/doc/ms3/build_manual.html


26) Idle valves:
The MS3 card has support for a 4 wire stepper idle valve built-in, just requiring 5 jumpers on the mainboard.
When using the MS3X card in addition it is suggested that you install these jumper wires and use the standard 'FIDLE' components.
If using 2 wire PWM idle without the MS3X card, you will need to upgrade the 'FIDLE' circuit on the V3.0 board. Note, the PWM Idle Valve circuit upgrade can also be used to drive other solenoids such as boost control.

   
i)Stepper Idle Valve: If using a 4 wired idle valve (or using as two spare outputs) then solder wires from:
a) JS0 to IAC1A
b) JS1 to IAC1B
c) JS2 to IAC2A
d) JS3 to IAC2B
e) Solder components Q4, Q20, R39 and D8 in place. Note, this gives you a programmable output that can drive a relay e.g. cooling fan on FIdle (Pin 30 of the db37)

[grnfsh]

ok I must be "Special" because I cannot find
a) JS0 to IAC1A
b) JS1 to IAC1B
c) JS2 to IAC2A
d) JS3 to IAC2B
on my board.. can you point me in the right direction?

Those jumpers are for your idle valve configuration. it can be configured on the board depending on how you plan to do idle control. I used a GM style IACV so the jumpers were setup to accommodate that.

Refer to step 26 in the ms assembly instructions here:  http://msextra.com/doc/ms3/build_manual.html


26) Idle valves:
The MS3 card has support for a 4 wire stepper idle valve built-in, just requiring 5 jumpers on the mainboard.
When using the MS3X card in addition it is suggested that you install these jumper wires and use the standard 'FIDLE' components.
If using 2 wire PWM idle without the MS3X card, you will need to upgrade the 'FIDLE' circuit on the V3.0 board. Note, the PWM Idle Valve circuit upgrade can also be used to drive other solenoids such as boost control.

   
i)Stepper Idle Valve: If using a 4 wired idle valve (or using as two spare outputs) then solder wires from:
a) JS0 to IAC1A
b) JS1 to IAC1B
c) JS2 to IAC2A
d) JS3 to IAC2B
e) Solder components Q4, Q20, R39 and D8 in place. Note, this gives you a programmable output that can drive a relay e.g. cooling fan on FIdle (Pin 30 of the db37)

[grnfsh]

OHHHHH  i found it.. flip the thing over duh!

ok I must be "Special" because I cannot find
a) JS0 to IAC1A
b) JS1 to IAC1B
c) JS2 to IAC2A
d) JS3 to IAC2B
on my board.. can you point me in the right direction?

Those jumpers are for your idle valve configuration. it can be configured on the board depending on how you plan to do idle control. I used a GM style IACV so the jumpers were setup to accommodate that.

Refer to step 26 in the ms assembly instructions here:  http://msextra.com/doc/ms3/build_manual.html


26) Idle valves:
The MS3 card has support for a 4 wire stepper idle valve built-in, just requiring 5 jumpers on the mainboard.
When using the MS3X card in addition it is suggested that you install these jumper wires and use the standard 'FIDLE' components.
If using 2 wire PWM idle without the MS3X card, you will need to upgrade the 'FIDLE' circuit on the V3.0 board. Note, the PWM Idle Valve circuit upgrade can also be used to drive other solenoids such as boost control.

   
i)Stepper Idle Valve: If using a 4 wired idle valve (or using as two spare outputs) then solder wires from:
a) JS0 to IAC1A
b) JS1 to IAC1B
c) JS2 to IAC2A
d) JS3 to IAC2B
e) Solder components Q4, Q20, R39 and D8 in place. Note, this gives you a programmable output that can drive a relay e.g. cooling fan on FIdle (Pin 30 of the db37)

[redmist]

Hey flip it over!! hehe...

I passed my wires through some holes in the PROTO area of the board to give it a clean look.

[grnfsh]

another trigger wheel question.

Why do we need to weld it onto the pulley, can a trigger wheel not be bolted/sandwiched between the balance and the pulley? Like one of the "disc" type wheels they sell on DIY?

[redmist]

Yup! That can work also, if you can package it and make it work then that's just fine as well. If you do that, post it up, I would like to see what you come up with!

[grnfsh]

ok just needed a sanity check. going to give it a go. I have it in my head but ill see if it works.

[grnfsh]

So after poking around, I'm not sure my idea is as easy as thought. I think it would offset the pulley too much and put stress on the belt because the pulleys wont be lined up any longer. I could shim all the other pulley as well but I'm going to try to weld it onto the pulley first like you all did.

[redmist]

If I even get a chance to try it, I would like to try and machine the teeth right into a dampener. I don't know what it would do to balance though, but that would be real nice!

[shawge]

I've seen pictures of someone doing exactly that.  It looked real clean.

[grnfsh]

If I even get a chance to try it, I would like to try and machine the teeth right into a dampener. I don't know what it would do to balance though, but that would be real nice!

I'm sure you could weight the dampener at the missing tooth to make up for the weight loss and balance it.

[shawge]

Found it, this guy added MS to a Jensen Interceptor w/ a 440:
http://www.bobclevenger.com/Crank-fired%20ignition.html

[grnfsh]

that's awesome

[grnfsh]

Redmist are you using a knock sensor? if so where did you mount it?

[redmist]

Nope, Not yet.

[grnfsh]

sounds like you intend to add one. What is your plan for that?

[grnfsh]

powered up on the Stim for the first time last night. R15 smoked out on me. Guess ill order another one.

[grnfsh]

Tried to connect and down load firmware to the MS3.  No comms to the unit from the computer. I have some trouble shooting to do. any suggestions?

[MechTech]

Hi redmist
Ive gone about putting EFI on my motor a little differently. I started with batch firing the injectors and using a MSD digital 6 and MSD crank trigger for ignition. RPM came from the VR sensor in the distributor. This fall I started working on making everything sequential. As I was collecting parts I came across your post where you were using the cam position sensor from the 4.0 Jeep I found one and made the bushing but I'm having trouble getting a signal out of it. I was hoping that you would tell us/me where you picked up the 5volts and the ground and your settings on the MS3X board