Allen Head Bolts for Daytona Wing

[johnnyseville]

Want to replace the bolts on mine that hold the wing to the uprights, where can I find them?  Thanks.

[hitail]

www.grainer.com
www.mcmaster.com
Or from Aero426 www.superbirdclub.com/clubstoremopar.html

Hitail

[johnnyseville]

Cool, thank you!

[Aero426]

Correct wing bolts are $15 a pair shipped.  Pay Pal or check ok.

[Daytona R/T SE]

Performance car graphics has them in stainless steel.

[johnnyseville]

Correct wing bolts are $15 a pair shipped.  Pay Pal or check ok.

Wow! Probably the only cheap thing for a Daytona.

[johnnyseville]

Performance car graphics has them in stainless steel.

Thank you, currently have my Tic Toc Tach being converted at his shop, didn't know, will have him add this to my order when he ships them back. That was easy!

[maxwellwedge]

I would avoid Stainless Steel for 3 reasons

Reaction with the metal

Paint may not stick as well

Originality

[DAY CLONA]

I would avoid Stainless Steel for 3 reasons

Reaction with the metal

Paint may not stick as well

Originality

I always replace the wing bolts with Stainless Steel bolts in aluminum wings, and I use them in my repro steel wings as well, paint adheres just  as fine as steel bolts, and as far as "reaction", aluminum is #1 on the Galvanic Series Chart, which makes it the weakest metal for corrosive interface with other alloys, thus it's the "Anode" in corrosion, steel is #3, the 400 series of Stainless Steels is #6, and the 300 series of Stainless Steel are #12 on the scale, when paring Aluminum with these other allows, you create an Anode/Cathode effect, to increase the life of the Aluminum or lessen the deterioration you would select an alternate alloy with a Galvanic # higher than Aluminum's#1,...so 304/316 Stainless Steel is at the end of the charts spectrum, making it the ideal canidate.

As far as the originality thing...depends on how anal the restoration is

Mike

[moparstuart]

wow that hurt my head  reading the   

[johnnyseville]

wow that hurt my head  reading the   

Me too!   My wing is original, what were they made of?  Might as well go with the original alloy, let them all rust at the same rate .

[Daytona Guy]

I would avoid Stainless Steel for 3 reasons

Reaction with the metal

Paint may not stick as well

Originality

I always replace the wing bolts with Stainless Steel bolts in aluminum wings, and I use them in my repro steel wings as well, paint adheres just  as fine as steel bolts, and as far as "reaction", aluminum is #1 on the Galvanic Series Chart, which makes it the weakest metal for corrosive interface with other alloys, thus it's the "Anode" in corrosion, steel is #3, the 400 series of Stainless Steels is #6, and the 300 series of Stainless Steel are #12 on the scale, when paring Aluminum with these other allows, you create an Anode/Cathode effect, to increase the life of the Aluminum or lessen the deterioration you would select an alternate alloy with a Galvanic # higher than Aluminum's#1,...so 304/316 Stainless Steel is at the end of the charts spectrum, making it the ideal canidate.

As far as the originality thing...depends on how anal the restoration is

Mike

One more reason for stainless - they flex a tab bit more yet have good strength. Some Alen heads are tempered and tend to crack. If compatibility is an issue, use plenty of antisieze or even better a good lithium based grease on them, you'll be fine. Home Depot - 3.00

Dane

[A383Wing]

my wing is original..I think my bolts are black(ish)

Bryan

[daveco]

Actually, stainless is the worst choice for corrosion. The bolt will eat the aluminum.
In the galvanic series you want the metals to be as close as possible on the scale in order to minimize corrosion. (unless you are trying to make a battery)
Cadmium plated is best, zinc plated is next, then bare steel. Stainless is way at the wrong end of the scale.
None of it really matters if it stays dry.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_series

[held1823]

.

[johnnyseville]

.

Jeez Louise, this gets more complicated with each post.   It's just a simple bolt, no wonder these restorations take years.

[DAY CLONA]

Actually, stainless is the worst choice for corrosion. The bolt will eat the aluminum.
In the galvanic series you want the metals to be as close as possible on the scale in order to minimize corrosion. (unless you are trying to make a battery)
Cadmium plated is best, zinc plated is next, then bare steel. Stainless is way at the wrong end of the scale.
None of it really matters if it stays dry.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_series

This is from the Crane Waterfront handbook dealing with Aluminum Corrosion, basically a guide for boat builders who see the worst case scenario in Aluminum corrosion, there's many factors in the Galvanic Chart that aren't covered regarding the interface of Alloys....hopefully I can post it, as this site sucks for pic posting.

Mike

[DAY CLONA]

None of it really matters if it stays dry.

Unfortunately we don't live in a vacuum, the H2O molecule is present at all levels of our environment....but as Dane noted, lubricating the threads would be of a further benefit 

[DAY CLONA]

.

Jeez Louise, this gets more complicated with each post.   It's just a simple bolt, no wonder these restorations take years.

So true!....

[Daytona Guy]

My outdrive (OMC) uses all stainless bolts that come into contact with water. Nothing works well with aluminum by degree (no noticeable variances) -  just take the persuasions I stated and you will be fine. I have seen the steel alan heads crack - and you don't know it - then they snap. I looked really funny going down the road with one side attached and the other end bouncing up and down. Stainless is softer and has just a tad shorter thread (so they don't bind) - they just work better. Either way Home Depot has the stainless and Lou's has the regular.

Dane

[Old Moparz]

Maybe we need a nylon bolt with a steel pin inserted for reinforcing.  

[mauve66]

how about i just squirt some elmers in the hole and with the nylon bolt and skip the steel all together??

[Old Moparz]

how about i just squirt some elmers in the hole and with the nylon bolt and skip the steel all together??

I think the horizontal section of your wing won't make the full trip with your car.   

[johnnyseville]

Now, I have an even better question.  It looks like the the entire assembly was painted as one unit.  How does one remove the old bolts without breaking the paint seal?  Seems like that would be inevitable.  I can certainly paint the new bolts before installing, but think the  cosmetics would not be too good. Touch up with a brush  Any solutions other than repaint the entire wing (which I am not gonna get involved with)

[FJ5WING]

this leads me to ask why youre replacing the current bolts?