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Carter AFB Not Squirting Fuel

Started by RIDGERACER383, February 05, 2013, 05:16:55 PM

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RIDGERACER383

I've been having a fuel issue for awhile now.I put on a new fuel pump and pulled the line at the carb and it's shooting fuel.My carb just isn't squirting out the fuel.What could cause this?It was squirting fuel out fine before and just stopped.
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

Dmichels

Do you mean the acelerator pump is not squirting gas when you move the butterfly? Does the car run? 2 things I think of The float is stuck closed so the carb is dry. Or the accel pump is shot. How often do you start and drive the car? If the car sits drain the gas
Dave
68 440 4 speed 4.10

Cooter

Quote from: Dmichels on February 05, 2013, 06:08:42 PM
Do you mean the acelerator pump is not squirting gas when you move the butterfly? Does the car run? 2 things I think of The float is stuck closed so the carb is dry. Or the accel pump is shot. How often do you start and drive the car? If the car sits drain the gas
Dave

:2thumbs:
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

johnnyseville

Rather then keep guessing, just pull the top off and see what is going on, floats on the AFB are junk, very easy to jam up.  Doubtful accelerator pump is the problem causing this, if it was getting gas it would still idle through the idle circuits. Something is preventing gas from coming into the bowls, only the needle can do that.   If you are careful you can do it on the car, don't drop screws in or you will have bigger problems.  :hah:  Second thought, remove it first.
too many to list!

resq302

There is a check ball valve (at least in the AVS which is similar).  If the check ball is clogged or dirty, you might not get enough fuel going into the accelerator pump area.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

RIDGERACER383

Thanks for the replys.I didn't start it up for awhile because I had the tank out.I'll take the carb off and go through it and try what guys mentioned.The carb does look pretty dirty so a good cleaning won't hurt.
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

Ghoste

The accelerator pumps in the Carter style carbs are known to go bad when they sit too.  The rubber seal on the plunger dries up.

resq302

True, however, some good kits still give you a leather accelerator pump.   :2thumbs:
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

RIDGERACER383

I'm taking it off this weekend and clean it with carb cleaner real good.I'll try that first.If that don't work I'll take the top off and check everything.
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

RIDGERACER383

Hey guys...Been awhile since i've been on here.I finally tore down my carb and ordered a rebuild kit for it.I was removing the secondary jets out of it and got one out and the other chipped on me so I have to drill it.I went ahead and ordered two .107 secondary jets for it.That thing was really nasty inside.The float bowls were full of debris.Just nasty.

Heres a pic of one of the problems with it.The accelerator pump was shot.



Another issue I found was the weighted check ball under the fuel squirter is stuck in the hole.Not sure how I will get it out.I soaked it with Croil so hopefully it lets loose tomorrow.

Hopefully I should have it rebuilt by this weekend as long as my kit gets here when they say.I found a series of detailed videos on how to rebuild my carb so i'm going to rebuild it myself..Its pretty easy actually.
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

resq302

After you disassemble everything, might want to soak the core / body in the carb cleaner / parts cleaner over night to loosen up any build up or garf that has accumulated in the passages.  Once you have the thing soaked, get all of the liquid out and try to run a pipe cleaner or bottle brush through the holes / passages as best as you can.  Once that is done try spraying the carb cleaner (in a spray can) through the passages and then blow them clean with compressed air.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

RIDGERACER383

Thanks man...I'll do that...I got some of the stuff soaking in kerosene right now to get oil off it.
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

RIDGERACER383

Well I got the check ball out but I can't get the jet out..I tried 3 different easy outs with no luck.Its too shallow.So I drilled it out almost to the main threads.Its brass so it's soft.My problem now is I have no idea how I'm going to get the rest of it out.I picked at it with very small screwdriver and only chipped a few small pieces out of it.Any ideas on how to get the rest of it out?Its pretty thin now..All I know is I have to get it out while saving the threads in the carb..The threads are fine right now.
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

bakerhillpins

Your in for some frustration..

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,102657.0.html

I hope when you drilled you maintained a good center bore. If you got off center like I did it's going to suck worse. I stupidly tried to use an extraction bit. DON'T. Which removed my ability to get a good center with my drill press. I used a shop drill press, inverted a drill bit that I could use to lower into the jet and clamp the carb body so I got a decent center. I eyeballed it on a ragged hole and didn't get center as well as I hoped. However, the threads don't do anything more than hold the jet to the bottom of the bore so shaved threads on one side was not catastrophic. I then had to use old dentist pics and other pic tools to pick out the brass left in the threads. It took over an hour and lots of cursing. They finally came out. Carb is running well now.  :yesnod:
One great wife (Life is good)
14 RAM 1500 5.7 Hemi Crew Cab (crap hauler)
69 Dodge Charger R/T, Q5, C6X, V1X, V88  (Life is WAY better)
96' VFR750 (Sweet)
Capt. Lyme Vol. Fire

"Inspiration is for amateurs - the rest of us just show up and get to work." -Chuck Close
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits." -Albert Einstein
Go that way, really fast. If something gets in your way, turn.
Science flies you to the moon, Religion flies you into buildings.

bakerhillpins

You reminded me I need to finish this thread:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,102682.0.html

Down inside there is a link to some Carter Carb manuals that were useful to me, provided the correct OEM jetting and such too.

Also, spend the time properly adjusting all of the linkages and tolerances. Mine were WAY out and I had to bend all sorts of stuff to get it back into spec. On the plus side I dialed out the stock specs, dropped her on, and she fired up and idled well right away. Previously I had to dial out the idle screws to like 6 turns to get it to stay running.  :eek2: :lol:
One great wife (Life is good)
14 RAM 1500 5.7 Hemi Crew Cab (crap hauler)
69 Dodge Charger R/T, Q5, C6X, V1X, V88  (Life is WAY better)
96' VFR750 (Sweet)
Capt. Lyme Vol. Fire

"Inspiration is for amateurs - the rest of us just show up and get to work." -Chuck Close
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits." -Albert Einstein
Go that way, really fast. If something gets in your way, turn.
Science flies you to the moon, Religion flies you into buildings.

RIDGERACER383

Thanks for the tips..I used a hand drill and used the existing hole to center it and its perfect.I didn't take it any farther as a 9/32 may have taken too far.So I basically have the thickness of a gun shell of brass left in the hole not counting the threads.Looks like ill have to find small picks and work with it till I get it out..It's gonna suck.I tore that whole carb apart with no issues and that jet was the very last part I had to remove..Happens everytime..lol
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

bakerhillpins

I doubt you are going to have any luck with picks until you drill out all the brass except that in the threads. Those threads are frozen in there and I don't see how you are going to pick through the shell thickness to get it out or have the torque to break it loose.

When I picked up the spare carb at Carlisle I was sure to take my time getting the jets out. A friend suggested that I use some old crappy screwdrivers and grind them down so that the tip of the standard head would fit tightly into the slot of the jet. Then we blasted the suckers with PB blaster and took our time. I saved those screwdrivers in my "special tools" bucket.  :2thumbs:
One great wife (Life is good)
14 RAM 1500 5.7 Hemi Crew Cab (crap hauler)
69 Dodge Charger R/T, Q5, C6X, V1X, V88  (Life is WAY better)
96' VFR750 (Sweet)
Capt. Lyme Vol. Fire

"Inspiration is for amateurs - the rest of us just show up and get to work." -Chuck Close
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits." -Albert Einstein
Go that way, really fast. If something gets in your way, turn.
Science flies you to the moon, Religion flies you into buildings.

RIDGERACER383

You might be right about taking it down farther..I was hoping to leave the wall so it could break out sections of the threads.Im gonna mess with it more tomorrow and hopefully get it out..
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

bakerhillpins

One great wife (Life is good)
14 RAM 1500 5.7 Hemi Crew Cab (crap hauler)
69 Dodge Charger R/T, Q5, C6X, V1X, V88  (Life is WAY better)
96' VFR750 (Sweet)
Capt. Lyme Vol. Fire

"Inspiration is for amateurs - the rest of us just show up and get to work." -Chuck Close
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits." -Albert Einstein
Go that way, really fast. If something gets in your way, turn.
Science flies you to the moon, Religion flies you into buildings.

RIDGERACER383

What size drill bit did you use to take it to the threads?Was it 9/32?
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

RIDGERACER383

Well I did another drilling today and barely exposed the aluminum threads.I got lucky with the hole being drilled center.

Here's my second to last drilling.Pics suck because there from my ipod.



And here is my final drilling



I called my buddy and he is bringing me his small pick set so I can get the brass threads out.Notice the star in the bottom of the seat?This is where the easy out got stuck when I first tried getting it out.
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

RIDGERACER383

I'll tell you one thing..It takes longer to clean the carb than it does to rebuild it.My dad took my carb to work and it got soaked in there parts cleaner for 6 hours and that helped a little.Then scored a gallon of gunk and soaked and cleaned every part.I finished the main body today.Dad got a machinist to retap my jet hole so it's good to go..I might go ahead and rebuild it tonight.
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

resq302

Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

RIDGERACER383

The carb is finished..I finally get to try it out tomorrow.
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

RIDGERACER383

Figured I would show you guys the carb after I rebuilt it.It's on the car but my battery is dead so i'm charging it over night.





1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55