Subframe Connectors

[BY RSCO]

I am looking into subframe connectors and did a search here also of course. I read up on the US car tool connectors from some older posts and was curious if they were still pretty much the way to go, or if there were better options out there. I like that they do not scream "hey, I'm an add on". I am also open for other ideas as well - motor is in the works now and our target is in the 500 hp range (to the tires) and about the same on torque if not a hair more. Thanks in advance for any help.

[Indygenerallee]

Yep, The US cartool ones are nice I have them.

[dangina]

make your own - its cheap!!

[Cooter]

I got 'em on my Challenger and wasn't a big fan of the laser cut ones until I went to weld 'em in. Loved it. US cartool I believe was the man. of mine as well.

[HeavyFuel]

Yep...US Cartool.

Don't forget the boxes.

[BY RSCO]

Thanks again for the comments! They (and boxes) will be ordered this week..

[oldschool]

heavyfuel, thats nice work there......

[plumcrazy1970]

I am new to the site and thought I would chime in I just bought a set through the dealer for 168.00 and they are bolt on I love them and they look good on my 70 R/Thttp://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag69/plumcrazy5/bth_connectors.jpg

[b5blue]

http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag69/plumcrazy5/bth_connectors.jpg  Fixed the link, you need a space between text and link. 

[68CoronetRT]

You can use the IMG then your link then /IMG and it will post up from photobucket.

Use [   ] around IMG and [/   ] around the /IMG

[bill440rt]

I used the MP ones, too. This was right before the US Cartool ones came out.
Simple. Cheap. Effective.

[Dino]

I used the MP ones, too. This was right before the US Cartool ones came out.
Simple. Cheap. Effective.

Are those a direct bolt on?  I want to keep my car an assembled driver for as long as I can so welding on the cartool ones is not an option. 

Are these even worth it for a driver?

[firefighter3931]

I used the MP ones, too. This was right before the US Cartool ones came out.
Simple. Cheap. Effective.

Are those a direct bolt on?  I want to keep my car an assembled driver for as long as I can so welding on the cartool ones is not an option. 

Are these even worth it for a driver?

Yes, the MP connecters are a bolt on but it's best to weld them....i have them on my car. Makes a very noticable difference in the rigidity of the chassis. The car handles much better and feels tighter. 

Inmo, the square tube connecter is superior to the US Cartool design from a functional/structural integrity standpoint. 


Ron

[Dino]

I used the MP ones, too. This was right before the US Cartool ones came out.
Simple. Cheap. Effective.

Are those a direct bolt on?  I want to keep my car an assembled driver for as long as I can so welding on the cartool ones is not an option. 

Are these even worth it for a driver?

Yes, the MP connecters are a bolt on but it's best to weld them....i have them on my car. Makes a very noticable difference in the rigidity of the chassis. The car handles much better and feels tighter. 

Inmo, the square tube connecter is superior to the US Cartool design from a functional/structural integrity standpoint. 


Ron

Thank Ron.  I can definitely see the advantage of welding them in but would there be anything wrong with bolting them on?  When the time comes to restore the car then I'll be able to weld them, or another for that matter. 

[Cooter]

Once welded to your floor pans, the US cartool connectors are boxed Dino.

[JB400]

The only reason the square tubing connectors are superior to the US Cartools is because they are a consistent size.  On the US, they do not stay the same width, they are only as strong as the thinnest section.  Also, the floorboards are thinner (20 guage I think) than the framerail connectors (13 guage) themselves.

[Mike DC]

SC's don't need to be massive.  They are just there to fix the weakest link in the chain.  Once the area of flex moves somewhere else there is no further benefit to making the SC's beefier.  IMHO a moderate SC + torque box plating is superior to a heavy SC without torque boxing. 

[bill440rt]

Right, the floorpans are a thinner gauge metal than the frame connectors. They'll probably do the job fine in most street cars.

Dino, you CAN just bolt the MP ones in, but for best results they should be welded.
I installed my MP ones as an afterthought. Of course, this was after the underside was all painted nice & stuff. So, I bolted them in combined with panel bond adhesive (which, is "supposed" to be as strong or stronger than welding). I figured, even IF it was not as strong as welding it's gotta be stronger than just bolting them in alone.
Hope that helps.

[Dino]

Right, the floorpans are a thinner gauge metal than the frame connectors. They'll probably do the job fine in most street cars.

Dino, you CAN just bolt the MP ones in, but for best results they should be welded.
I installed my MP ones as an afterthought. Of course, this was after the underside was all painted nice & stuff. So, I bolted them in combined with panel bond adhesive (which, is "supposed" to be as strong or stronger than welding). I figured, even IF it was not as strong as welding it's gotta be stronger than just bolting them in alone.
Hope that helps.

I never thought about adhesive, that'll do it!  The previous owner did a small repair to the floorboard, he hit some rock that put a tear in it.  He did a very nice job but when he was done he brought some super strong epoxy from work and coated the inside of the floors.  It's really protecting the floor but if I want to weld on them I have to remove all of it and I'm just not willing to do that right now.  I want to keep this a driver because with work and school I don't have time for major surgery and the car will end up being another shelf in the garage.

I'll bolt them on and use adhesive.  When the time comes to strip the car I'll weld in a set, be it these or the cartool kind.

[b5blue]

I'm going to install Mopar ones like Bill and bolt them in. Later after the front end mods and brake upgrade changes I'll weld them in place. If your doing any floor repairs at all, even later wait or just bolt them. I've been experimenting with adhesive, it will reach a "stress point" and shear off of one piece or another if everything isn't just so.  (Like areas where I could not get a large enough surface "grip".) I'm certain Bill will be fine as his car was repaired fully and nice and strong with the bolts in place to stabilize the gripping. My car is just undercarriage in black for protection and easy redo service so paint is never an issue. 

[bill440rt]

 

Not to take the thread on a detour, but tests have been done with bonded samples and they sheared before the adhesive let go. I figured heck, they're already bolted in place so what would it hurt? I didn't want to ruin the paint from welding, either.
I bolted them in first, and traced around the mating areas. Then, removed the framerail connectors and ground the mating surfaces to bare metal that I marked off before. Then, bolted them back in letting the adhesive ooze out, and smoothed it around the seams. They haven't budged. Just make sure you cover the bare metal areas completely with a layer of adhesive to prevent future corrosion. 

[b5blue]

Right!

[NMike]

i think the US connectors would be just as strong as the square tube ones. the connector is welded to the floor which is not a straight shape. ads more surfaces to the shape.

[pro451bee]

I used 2" of 5/8 pipe inside the frame rail to clamp the bolts without crushing the frame on my MP connectors.

[b5blue]

i think the US connectors would be just as strong as the square tube ones. the connector is welded to the floor which is not a straight shape. ads more surfaces to the shape.

Some even put steel tube inside!