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Fuel treatment for Ethanol?

Started by resq302, January 18, 2013, 01:49:29 AM

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resq302

Has anyone used this stuff?  http://mystarbrite.com/startron//content/view/100/136/lang,en/

Supposedly it either removes or breaks down the water and ethanol in the gas.  If it works as good as they say it does, I wonder what kind of stolen power I would be able to get with having better fuel with this?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

mhinders

I am not sure I understand your question? Why would you like to get rid of the ethanol????
IMHO the more ethanol in the fuel the better!

Of course a carbed engine has difficulties adjusting the mixture to the proper air/fuel ratio, but if you can set it right you get more power the more ethanol you mix in!
Cheers,
Martin
Martin
Dodge Charger 1967, 512 cui, E85, MegaSquirt MS3X sequential ignition and injection

resq302

Why get rid of the ethanol?  Many, many reasons!  Absorbs water, eats away at rubber parts, burns faster, gives you less miles per gallon, I could go on but if you want to read up more on what Ethanol or E10 fuel does, here is the link.   http://mystarbrite.com/startron//content/view/14/37/lang,en/  I know in my charger since they started putting the 10% stuff in, it has raised the engine temps.  I found a place when I was out at a show and put in the less than 10% stuff and the engine idled better, ran cooler, etc.  You can do what you want with your own vehicles but for me, if I have the chance to remove the ethanol or at least reduce it, you better believe I will!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Mebsuta

I had to jet up and run more rich with E10 to keep it from surging.  That's all.   Other than that no big deal.   

Piper

just had this discussion with a guy (oddly enough while on a tech call configuring a router) The ethanol from sitting in his car (he drives the car infrequently '66 390 Ford) sort of glued the 'valves' to the seats and ultimately bent a pushrod. I was a bit skeptical on his claim but then started to do a little research, it seems it isn't good for a car that sits (or rubber, it can tend to break gaskets and hoses down much faster)

He told me his machinist recommended some Lucas Fuel treatment, I just picked some up and will try it out for my cars


mhinders

Quote from: resq302 on January 18, 2013, 03:49:38 PM
 http://mystarbrite.com/startron//content/view/14/37/lang,en/  I know in my charger since they started putting the 10% stuff in, it has raised the engine temps.  I found a place when I was out at a show and put in the less than 10% stuff and the engine idled better, ran cooler, etc.  You can do what you want with your own vehicles but for me, if I have the chance to remove the ethanol or at least reduce it, you better believe I will!

You have to keep in mind that the link you refer to is a sales ad, they want you to buy their products. The little text I read in the beginning is very close to nonsense, and omitting such basic facts that you have to rejet your carb to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio when you start adding ethanol to your fuel.

Of course you lose power if you don't rejet your carb, because your engine will run too lean. If you rejet the carb correctly for the new fuel mixture you will gain power, without this company's expensive, unnecessary product.
Martin
Dodge Charger 1967, 512 cui, E85, MegaSquirt MS3X sequential ignition and injection

resq302

So I guess the reports of ethanol damaging plastic and rubber pieces are false then?  I also assume that the reporters are incorrect when they did the research on this.   http://www.twincities.com/business/ci_22098688/aaa-15-ethanol-blended-gas-may-damage-car   There is also a video that I have to find where they say a similar thing.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

mhinders

I agree that some stuff in old cars may not work so well with ethanol, and yes, there is certainly some plastics that are unsuitable. I have some research material in the other computer, I'll see if I can get it posted later tonight.

I see the article you refer to as objective and not taking a stand for one or the other.

But generally speaking, I don't think there is much difference in agressivity between ethanol and pump gas. Use the wrong type rubber hose for your pump gas fuel line and it'll disintegrate quite quickly, as well as other unsuitable rubber products.

Ethanol tends to be confused with nitromethane, which is very aggressive stuff.
Martin
Dodge Charger 1967, 512 cui, E85, MegaSquirt MS3X sequential ignition and injection

resq302

Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

mhinders

Here is chart showing all kinds of stuff. Unfortunately I don't know the origin of this info, but it certainly looks reliable.
You find Ethanol on first page under Alcohols-Ethyl.
Cheers,
Martin
Dodge Charger 1967, 512 cui, E85, MegaSquirt MS3X sequential ignition and injection

resq302

Its hard to say as the "rubber" they used said Natural.  Most rubber made today is a synthetic compound and is far from the "natural" rubber that was used years ago.  This is one reason why today's tires are wearing faster than what they did 5 or even 10 years ago.  Manufacturers have slowly phased out the natural rubber made in tires and other products since it costs more and is getting harder to find.  At least that is what my manager told me when I worked at a tire center about 10 years ago.  This is even evident if you go and look behind the wheels on the lower panels of your car.  I know I did not wash my wifes car for about two weeks and was wondering why it was running rich with black soot over the lower part of the rear bumper cover only to find out that it was on both sides!  My truck also has the same thing.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto