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FirmFeel 2 or 3 box.. Help, need to order soon

Started by My9302002, January 17, 2013, 08:11:21 PM

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c00nhunterjoe

Im told the stage 3 feels like the modern charger/challengers. If so, i am putting a stage 3 in my car when the time comes. My 07 has a nice tight feel, not as tight as a manual, but you are not steering with your pinky like i can in my '69. One handed operation is no problem in the '07

myk

Hmmm.....I like the sound of that but I'm still skeptical...

BLUE68RT4ME

I went with Stage 2.  The only reason I didn't do 3 was because I didn't want to mess with the different pitman arm.  My friend Troy who owns the RT Garage and who invented the Rev-N-ator goes with Firm Feel on every one of his builds.  His advise to me was simple, "You have to do the Stage II.  If you want to go further (Stage III), fine.  You'll love it but the Stage II is going to change your car so much you won't believe how much better it will be to drive."

I replaced my whole front suspension with new FF offset bushings, poly bushings and FF linkage with the rod ends so you can really fine tune your alignment.  I have 17X7's up front and the Grant Wood Stearing Wheel as well.  I'm able to turn it with a single finger but I didn't box my K-frame or control arms in, or put on bigger sway bars, so I think most of the advantage of Stage III would be lost on my car.  It's all good.  I think that's the bottom line!   :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
Mark Schultz
"BLUE68RT4ME"


bill440rt

The difference between II & III boxes is firmness. You're still going to have the original PS box characteristics and all that go with it. It's going to be as "tight" as a stock rebuilt box, just firmer feeling.
Stage 2 with a smaller wheel works fine for me. I have a Ram as a daily, feels similar to that if you're just comparing firmness. I like the feel, wouldn't want it tighter. Just my preference. Even with the larger stock steering wheel, there is a noticeable difference.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

myk

Quote from: bill440rt on April 08, 2014, 10:03:30 PM
The difference between II & III boxes is firmness. You're still going to have the original PS box characteristics and all that go with it. It's going to be as "tight" as a stock rebuilt box, just firmer feeling.
Stage 2 with a smaller wheel works fine for me. I have a Ram as a daily, feels similar to that if you're just comparing firmness. I like the feel, wouldn't want it tighter. Just my preference. Even with the larger stock steering wheel, there is a noticeable difference.

OK so I'm trying to imagine the feel of this thing.  It's more firm but it will still feel like the stock box? How does it still feel like the stock box?

bill440rt

Quote from: myk on April 09, 2014, 03:27:21 AM

OK so I'm trying to imagine the feel of this thing.  It's more firm but it will still feel like the stock box? How does it still feel like the stock box?


Because it is based on a stock box. They are remanufactured stock Chrysler boxes modified for different levels of "firmness". Imagine installing a freshly rebuilt stock box, and then make it feel firmer.
Don't read into that the wrong way, it is a 100% IMPROVEMENT. The result is better road feel. Many cars out there have them.
The only way to go a step further is to install the Borgeson unit or rack-n-pinion. That may increase responsiveness.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

myk

Quote from: bill440rt on April 09, 2014, 07:35:42 AM
Quote from: myk on April 09, 2014, 03:27:21 AM

OK so I'm trying to imagine the feel of this thing.  It's more firm but it will still feel like the stock box? How does it still feel like the stock box?


Because it is based on a stock box. They are remanufactured stock Chrysler boxes modified for different levels of "firmness". Imagine installing a freshly rebuilt stock box, and then make it feel firmer.
Don't read into that the wrong way, it is a 100% IMPROVEMENT. The result is better road feel. Many cars out there have them.
The only way to go a step further is to install the Borgeson unit or rack-n-pinion. That may increase responsiveness.

I was definitely looking at the Borgeson unit, but it's twice as much and requires cutting the steering column; that irks me for some reason.  If I can install the FF box and improve the car THAT much then I'll go in that direction...

bill440rt

I actually went with Steer-n-Gear. Same/similar concept. They offer boxes in 3 different levels as well. I have their boxes in my '68 and '69, both Stage 2.
I was able to pick them up at their vendor spot at Carlisle. No shipping, no tax, and I brought them my old boxes for cores so there was no core charge and no shipping sending my core to them. IIRC they offered more for your old core. FF would have been much more expensive due to shipping & core charges, at least in my case.
S-n-G is based out of OH, FF is out on the west coast.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Kern Dog

If firm feel is your choice, go with the Stage 3.
I Have the Stage 3 with the Fast Ratio Idler and Pitman arms. The 15.7 ratio is changed to approx 12 to 1 with the FR arms. I like the steering but if I had the $$$ now I'd be interested in trying the Borgeson unit.

myk

Quote from: Red 70 R/T 493 on April 10, 2014, 03:07:45 AM
If firm feel is your choice, go with the Stage 3.
I Have the Stage 3 with the Fast Ratio Idler and Pitman arms. The 15.7 ratio is changed to approx 12 to 1 with the FR arms. I like the steering but if I had the $$$ now I'd be interested in trying the Borgeson unit.

No headers with that setup, right?

Kern Dog

TTI headers, 2" size. Their instructions state that their headers will NOT clear but mine do by 3/4".  They were trying to cover their asses on that one.
I remember the day clearly: I slid under the car with a fast ratio pitman in hand and laid it against the stock one. I was surprised to see how much room I had. The RH side had even more room so i went with both the Idler and Pitman.
Steering response is great once I'm a few degrees off center. There is a dead spot at 12:00 that cannot be adjusted out. The coupler is rebuilt, the K member is welded and reinforced at the steering box mounts, the bushings and ball joints are in excellent condition. I'm told that the "slop" is just a characteristic of the design.

myk

Quote from: Red 70 R/T 493 on April 10, 2014, 09:38:36 PM
TTI headers, 2" size. Their instructions state that their headers will NOT clear but mine do by 3/4".  They were trying to cover their asses on that one.
I remember the day clearly: I slid under the car with a fast ratio pitman in hand and laid it against the stock one. I was surprised to see how much room I had. The RH side had even more room so i went with both the Idler and Pitman.
Steering response is great once I'm a few degrees off center. There is a dead spot at 12:00 that cannot be adjusted out. The coupler is rebuilt, the K member is welded and reinforced at the steering box mounts, the bushings and ball joints are in excellent condition. I'm told that the "slop" is just a characteristic of the design.

3/4"?  Like the couple at after-prom said, "wow that's tight."   I'm glad it works for you though
Do you have any other aftermarket suspension pieces? Maybe that would take care of the slop?

WHITE AND RED 69

Quote from: myk on April 09, 2014, 10:19:08 PM
I was definitely looking at the Borgeson unit, but it's twice as much and requires cutting the steering column; that irks me for some reason.  If I can install the FF box and improve the car THAT much then I'll go in that direction...

Myk, look up Bergman auto craft. He sells a coupler adapter so no cutting the column is involved.

I tried to do the fast ratio arms with my setup and it was not going to happen, idler arm went a good 1" into the header tube. I don't know how big of a difference there is between my TTI 1 3/4" headers and Red 70 R/T 493's TTI 2" headers but the only way mine would have worked is if I cut the downtube off.

I just wish the borgeson box was out on the market when I did my swap. I'm totally happy with my FF stage 3 (I actually hated it when I first got it but now I love it) but I do wish I could add the quicker ratio arms.
1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

myk

Quote from: WHITE AND RED 69 on April 10, 2014, 10:08:46 PM
Quote from: myk on April 09, 2014, 10:19:08 PM
I was definitely looking at the Borgeson unit, but it's twice as much and requires cutting the steering column; that irks me for some reason.  If I can install the FF box and improve the car THAT much then I'll go in that direction...

Myk, look up Bergman auto craft. He sells a coupler adapter so no cutting the column iso involved.

I tried to do the fast ratio arms with my setup and it was not going to happen, idler arm went a good 1" into the header tube. I don't know how big of a difference there is between my TTI 1 3/4" headers and Red 70 R/T 493's TTI 2" headers but the only way mine would have worked is if I cut the downtube off.

I just wish the borgeson box was out on the market when I did my swap. I'm totally happy with my FF stage 3 (I actually hated it when I first got it but now I love it) but I do wish I could add the quicker ratio arms.

Wow thanks for the tip on the adapter; guess that's one less reason to not buy it.

What did you not like about the firm feel box?

WHITE AND RED 69

Quote from: myk on April 10, 2014, 10:20:15 PM
Wow thanks for the tip on the adapter; guess that's one less reason to not buy it.

What did you not like about the firm feel box?

It was just the shock of going from the worn out stock box that could be turned by a light breeze to a stage 3 box which felt like you actually needed some muscle to turn the wheel. That first drive just felt like the steering wheel was 1000 pounds. I also had a 13" steering wheel at the time so that didn't help any. But after about a week of getting used to it I knew it was a good choice.

 
1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

Kern Dog

Regarding the clearance:
3/4" may sound close, but it is way more than I needed. The engine lifts on the left side on acceleration which only helps the clearance.
I can't explain why I have more clearance with my 2" headers except that maybe the 1 3/4" set are routed differently?
I talked with Dick Ross at Firm Feel some time ago when I had a  question about the slop in the steering. He was just one of the people that told me that no matter what you do, there will always be someslop in the Mopar power steering unit due to its design.

myk

Quote from: WHITE AND RED 69 on April 11, 2014, 01:08:01 AM
Quote from: myk on April 10, 2014, 10:20:15 PM
Wow thanks for the tip on the adapter; guess that's one less reason to not buy it.

What did you not like about the firm feel box?

It was just the shock of going from the worn out stock box that could be turned by a light breeze to a stage 3 box which felt like you actually needed some muscle to turn the wheel. That first drive just felt like the steering wheel was 1000 pounds. I also had a 13" steering wheel at the time so that didn't help any. But after about a week of getting used to it I knew it was a good choice.

 


Hmm...I'll be headed down the same road you traveled at some point.  I just installed a 13" steering wheel and now the car feels like it wants to turn ALL of the time; one nudge of the wheel and the car will shift its balance.

Quote from: Red 70 R/T 493 on April 11, 2014, 02:02:57 AM
Regarding the clearance:
3/4" may sound close, but it is way more than I needed. The engine lifts on the left side on acceleration which only helps the clearance.
I can't explain why I have more clearance with my 2" headers except that maybe the 1 3/4" set are routed differently?
I talked with Dick Ross at Firm Feel some time ago when I had a  question about the slop in the steering. He was just one of the people that told me that no matter what you do, there will always be someslop in the Mopar power steering unit due to its design.

So, is that why people try aftermarket K-members, switching to rack and pinion setups and the like?

bill440rt

Another thing to consider if you're keeping the "stock"-style steering system is to upgrade to the larger C-body tie rod ends & sleeves. They are beefier than the B-body/Charger ones, same dimension though. Just thicker.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Calif240

Love my stage 3 box... Have hotchkis all around and handling is night and day. Not too stiff for me at all.
Indianapolis '69 Charger. RestoMod.

Kern Dog

I don't buy into the hype of the aftermarket K members and rack steering kits. Of all of them out there, none seem as durable as the factory stuff. Some use unprotected hiem joints that have no place on a street with ruts, potholes or other common obstacles.
Look at the AlterKtion for example: The steering arms connect to the spindles in a strange manner using a 3" spacer in an effort to reduce bump steer. Tell me THAT is an optimal design.
The factory stuff is great but does have a few areas that annoy me: 1)Torsion bars and rear steer make headers a pisser to install. 2) The idler arm design has too much play.

myk

Quote from: Calif240 on April 11, 2014, 11:26:05 AM
Love my stage 3 box... Have hotchkis all around and handling is night and day. Not too stiff for me at all.

Do you have the Hotchkis upper-control arms also?  

Quote from: Red 70 R/T 493 on April 12, 2014, 02:41:03 AM
I don't buy into the hype of the aftermarket K members and rack steering kits. Of all of them out there, none seem as durable as the factory stuff. Some use unprotected hiem joints that have no place on a street with ruts, potholes or other common obstacles.
Look at the AlterKtion for example: The steering arms connect to the spindles in a strange manner using a 3" spacer in an effort to reduce bump steer. Tell me THAT is an optimal design.
The factory stuff is great but does have a few areas that annoy me: 1)Torsion bars and rear steer make headers a pisser to install. 2) The idler arm design has too much play.

That's my concern as well.  How many of these aftermarket front suspension systems have the strength of solid construction that has been proven with millions of B body's roaming the roads of the world for over 40 years?  ZERO.  I think the factory suspension has its flaws, but so does every other factory suspension system, and with add-on pieces like the Hotchkis ones I think the stock suspension can be brought up to very respectable standards.  Just my  :Twocents:

myk


Kern Dog

I like the trend of maximizing the factory arrangement with a mix of Mopar and aftermarket stuff.

twenty mike mike

I have a Firm Feel Stage 3 box with fewer than 50 miles that I'll sell for half price. Its firmness is fine, but it's still too loose for me. I got a Borgeson, but it's not much tighter, and it's too light. I'm beginning to think that the slop is because of my Thompson power steering box, because everything in the front end has either been replaced or rebushed.

Edit: Box is sold.

myk

Quote from: twenty mike mike on April 18, 2014, 02:30:50 PM
I have a Firm Feel Stage 3 box with fewer than 50 miles that I'll sell for half price. Its firmness is fine, but it's still too loose for me. I got a Borgeson, but it's not much tighter, and it's too light. I'm beginning to think that the slop is because of my Thompson power steering box, because everything in the front end has either been replaced or rebushed.

Not tight enough?  I never thought I'd hear that about the Firm Feel products or the Borgeson for that matter...