Wiring a 100 Amp alternator-Does this sound correct?

[WHITE AND RED 69]

I am about to swap to a Tuff Stuff 100 amp alternator with external regulator and want to know if what i'm doing is correct. I've searched other threads but wanted an updated response so I can get it right the first time. Anyone else used this alternator?

To start I already have bypassed the amp gauge and installed a volt gauge. The wires behind the dash have been tied together so no worries about burning out the gauge. I'm going to run a 10 gauge wire from the alternator output stud to the starter relay with an inline fuse from painless performance. Should I keep the same 69 electronic voltage regulator(new one of course) or go with the 70 and up electronic regulator? Is there any benefit to the 70 an up electronic? Is there any other wiring I should replace? My wiring is in great shape but I'm not sure what else to upgrade?

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks    

[Nacho-RT74]

mostly sure will need to fit the newer reg because you'll get double field alt ( which also is more effiecient ), although you can convert it on single field just grounding one of the brushes prongs and keep your actual reg.

no need for ammeter bypass BTW

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

[lasvegas69charg]

do I still need to do the wiring upgrade with a 80 amp alt?

[Chryco Psycho]

I would with any Alt over 55 amp output , you do not have to jump the ammeter once you install the bypass from the alt to the start relay though as a lot less current flows through the gauge .

[Nacho-RT74]

actually, BELIEVE IT OR NOT with more amps able to feed from alt, less upgrades on wiring you need as far is in good conditions.

the burnt conditions comes from the continouous back and forth loads coming and going from batt/alt. More stable your sytem is, more load will be coming from the right side

BELIEVE OR NOT IS A TRUE

Then if you begin to add accesories, hook everything straight from alt stud ( or alt side of ammeter ), then you'll need wiring upgrade AT LEAST on the amm/alt section.

of course if you begin to upgrade wiring, is better making it everywhere, but MINIMUN REQUIREMENTS are, the alt output and the wiring between alt and ammeter. With those upgrades you'll barelly will require power froming from batt. ammeter will keep safe as long the batt side of wiring from ammeter

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Thanks guys!  

What is the difference between these electronic voltage regulators? Other than price and looks? The one I have now is like the first one so I would like to stay with that design unless their is a benefit to going with one of the others.

https://www.yearone.com/Product/DisplayProduct/63968

https://www.yearone.com/Product/DisplayProduct/262828

https://www.yearone.com/Product/DisplayProduct/262033

https://www.yearone.com/Product/DisplayProduct/262827

[Chryco Psycho]

With the system used up to 69 the power side is switched with the regulator , in 70 they started switching the ground side , the newer system is the better way to control the alt output

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Do I really need to run the 10 gauge wire from the alt to the starter relay? I've already wired a fusible link to the starter relay and bypassed the old gauge. Will my wiring be ok if I just run it the same way I am now? 

[Chryco Psycho]

you still have the bulkhead connector as the weak link so yes I would do a bypass

[Brass]

You can bypass the bulkhead connector too by running a wire through the grommet on the firewall.