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'Best Oil' Question:

Started by Captain D, September 11, 2012, 10:34:24 PM

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Captain D

Hi all,

I was reading some older threads on oil pressure and just wanted to see if I may double-check a few things if I may please:

- When my 69' Charger (10W-30 weight Valvoline Synthetic oil with the zinc additive) starts cold, its at 20 lbs., then once warmed up went right to 40 lbs.

- where I live, the winding roads only allow for 25-35 mph, so the gauge reads at a range between 20-40lbs. of pressure,

- Once I can get out on a straightaway, and do at least 50 mph, the gauge tends to go up to 60 lbs. for a little while, but cruising along at speeds of 45-50 mph, the gauge tends to level of at a steady 40 lbs. (give or take a slight amount either way).

I just thought that I would double-check to see if you thought that these readings sound about normal? Also, I called round' my local auto stores and they noted that they can't get the 15W-40 weight in synthetic if I wanted to change my oil to help increase the oil pressure - they can only get that weight as a blend. However, since we're looking for the full synthetic, they said that the closest that they can get would be the 15W-50 full synthetic through Mobil 1.

I realize that I can simply go with the 15W-40 blend and call it done (to help boost the oil pressure), but since we're aiming for the full synthetic, do you feel that this 15W-50 full synthetic would be too thick/heavy for our purposes (normal periodic driving conditions for 2-3 days out a week)? I live in Pennsylvania - which can can pretty cold, so that's why I'm curious about the 15W-50 oil weight being perhaps a tad too thick...

Thank you for your time and guidance with any/all replies,
Aaron

Plumcrazy

Are those pressure readings from the gauge in the car?

If they are, the first thing I would do is hook up a mechanical test gauge and repeat everything you did.

It's not a midlife crisis, it's my second adolescence.

Cooter

One thing to remember here is Oil Pressure isn't nessesarily what you want, it's volume. 20 Lbs idle and around 40-50 Lbs at cruise isn't bad for a Stock oil pump/engine. Yes, you will see some but not alot of oil pressure increase with thicker oil, but beware it is a double edged sword. Thicker oil takes longer to be pumped up to the top of engine when cold therefore, starving the engine upon cold start up. Do you relaize it takes on some engines as long as 10 min,. to get oil everywhere it needs to be upon cold start up?

You didn't mention if it was a small block or Big Block. Big Block is simple enough to swap out the oil pump for a HV unit and THAT will boost oil pressure as well as volume, but will suck a stock pan dry at high RPMs.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Dino

Quote from: Plumcrazy on September 12, 2012, 06:03:53 AM
Are those pressure readings from the gauge in the car?

If they are, the first thing I would do is hook up a mechanical test gauge and repeat everything you did.


:iagree:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Captain D

Thank you gents for the replies and for an update,

I was taking the Charger to a local shop anyhow to get a few other things checked before an upcoming car show this Saturday (my first one after 6 years of work,  ;D) and we quickly checked the oil pressure concern. After checking the sending unit on the upper-rear section of the engine (the piece that resembles a bell-like shape), they quickly had seen that the only problem was that the wire that runs to this sending unit had simply become disconnected and they had it back on and good to go within a few seconds. Since I wanted to learn how to do this stuff myself if need be, they showed me that at the end of this wire there is a slit where it slides over, and adjoins, onto the sending unit so as to prevent it from becoming loose. Somehow mine had become loose and its easy to put back on, - it's connected correctly and is fine now. If it gets disconnected again in the future, I wonder if there is any other way to help secure it on there...?

As for the oil, I didn't go with anything thicker for my 383 4brll BB since we're getting into cooler/colder temps (thanks for the info 'Cooter'). We did a fresh oil change with Valvoline's synthetic and definitely the zinc + phosphorus additive, but in the spring/early summer I'll more than likely go with the thicker oil. Even though we've got plenty of time before then, just out of curiosity, any info on what you guys run in the summertime in your Charger engines? Overall, the gauge reads higher and finally just where it needs to be :2thumbs:.

Thanks again for the guidance and for any additional info,
All the best,
Aaron



     

Dino

Quote from: Captain D on September 14, 2012, 02:49:38 AM
Thank you gents for the replies and for an update,

I was taking the Charger to a local shop anyhow to get a few other things checked before an upcoming car show this Saturday (my first one after 6 years of work,  ;D) and we quickly checked the oil pressure concern. After checking the sending unit on the upper-rear section of the engine (the piece that resembles a bell-like shape), they quickly had seen that the only problem was that the wire that runs to this sending unit had simply become disconnected and they had it back on and good to go within a few seconds. Since I wanted to learn how to do this stuff myself if need be, they showed me that at the end of this wire there is a slit where it slides over, and adjoins, onto the sending unit so as to prevent it from becoming loose. Somehow mine had become loose and its easy to put back on, - it's connected correctly and is fine now. If it gets disconnected again in the future, I wonder if there is any other way to help secure it on there...?

As for the oil, I didn't go with anything thicker for my 383 4brll BB since we're getting into cooler/colder temps (thanks for the info 'Cooter'). We did a fresh oil change with Valvoline's synthetic and definitely the zinc + phosphorus additive, but in the spring/early summer I'll more than likely go with the thicker oil. Even though we've got plenty of time before then, just out of curiosity, any info on what you guys run in the summertime in your Charger engines? Overall, the gauge reads higher and finally just where it needs to be :2thumbs:.

Thanks again for the guidance and for any additional info,
All the best,
Aaron



     

Don't you just love it when it's the simple things?   :icon_smile_big:

I run 10W40 all season, roughly from May to November.

Good luck at the show, bring home a trophy.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

resq302

I run the Valvoline VR1 that has the added zinc content to it already in 20w-50 weight.  I usually run from April or when the last snow is and a good heavy rain storm to wash the salt off the roads till about late October.  Ive never had a problem as if it is usually below 50, I don't take the car out.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Captain D

Thanks again gents for the replies! It'll be awesome if I win anything, but even not, that's okay - after all these years of doing restoration work on it - I'm just happy 'being there,' lol.

I've got to say one thing for sure - car shows definitely help to get things straightened out fast. Things that I would get to whenever I get to them, I got done this past week so that its good to go for the show,  :icon_smile_big:. I sacrificed a few dates with the girlfriend, so I'll have to take her out to a dinner and a movie soon to help make up for it!  ;)

Many thanks again for the guidance guys and take care  :cheers:,
Aaron   

Plumcrazy

Quote from: resq302 on September 14, 2012, 07:38:24 AM
I run the Valvoline VR1 that has the added zinc content to it already in 20w-50 weight.  I usually run from April or when the last snow is and a good heavy rain storm to wash the salt off the roads till about late October.  Ive never had a problem as if it is usually below 50, I don't take the car out.

That's about the same driving season for me.
I use to run 20w-50 also but I never liked how long it took to quiet down the lifters. Also on a cold start I had to let the engine idle a couple of minutes before putting it in gear.

As an experiment late last driving season I just drained the oil and refilled with 5w-30
I couldn't believe the difference, now i can start it up, tap the gas to drop the idle and put it gear and go. It's almost like a modern car.

I saw no difference on the oil pressure gauge. :Twocents:

It's not a midlife crisis, it's my second adolescence.

resq302

I mainly did hte 20-50 since prior to this year, my charger did not have a fan shroud and only had the 22" rad and fixed 7 blade fan.  Since it was used for the movie, I added the factory fan shroud that it would have gotten if it was an automatic.  When the temps would really creep up in hot weather in traffic, I figured the 20w-50 would thin out a little more and still give me plenty of protection.  Looks like I can try a lighter weight now.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto