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seriously bummed...HELP

Started by poppa, August 25, 2012, 10:02:47 PM

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poppa

Never thought about rear hose.  I will check that after I figure out this bleeding fiasco. I think your right about the pushrod. This car hates me.
God must love stupid people....he made a sh**load of 'em....

Matco tools...guaranteed for a lifetime. Just not a human lifetime.

ACUDANUT

The car doesn't hate you. Remember it's a 40 plus year old car.  Adding rear disc brakes, just makes things alittle more complicated.  It will work out and you will love it the rest of your life. :cheers:

Chryco Psycho

40+ year old cars are a challenge it is a learning curve & we are here to help

poppa

Nope...it hates me. I want to thonk everyone for their input. I took it for a short ride thisafternoon and so far so good. I will go alittle farther tomorrow after work. Thanks again. :cheers:
God must love stupid people....he made a sh**load of 'em....

Matco tools...guaranteed for a lifetime. Just not a human lifetime.

Kern Dog

Poppa, I wish that I could help. I'm a little distracted by the sillouette in your Avatar....

A383Wing

Quote from: poppa on August 27, 2012, 06:35:04 PM
Nope...it hates me. I want to thonk everyone for their input. I took it for a short ride thisafternoon and so far so good. I will go alittle farther tomorrow after work. Thanks again. :cheers:

so what did you end up doing to fix it?

Bryan

poppa

I think it was the push rod. My master cylinder "piston" stuck out the end not quite 1/8 of an inch,so when I put it on the push rod was already pushing the brakes on ever so slightly and someone else said it restricts return then.
God must love stupid people....he made a sh**load of 'em....

Matco tools...guaranteed for a lifetime. Just not a human lifetime.

elacruze

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on August 26, 2012, 11:11:37 AM
I didn't read the whole thread but did you remove the residual pressure valve from the master or use a master designed for disc brakes , Drums require a residual pressure valve which is overcome by the springs , discs will stay on with the residual pressure valve in place

Yep., this.

If the rod is too long you can tell by pumping the brake and watching the hole in the bottom of the M/C; it will obviously uncover and open when adjusted properly, obviously stay blocked or mostly blocked if adjusted too tight.

A residual pressure valve will keep your pads against the rotors; generally enough to make them hot but not enough to lock them up. Sounds more like misadjustment to me. You can watch the reservoir holes in the M/C as you install it to the booster, you should not see the holes close as you bolt it up. If you do, the booster rod is too long/wrong application.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

poppa

Well fellas , went for a ride tonight and......NO problems. Thanks again everyone for your help!  :cheers:
God must love stupid people....he made a sh**load of 'em....

Matco tools...guaranteed for a lifetime. Just not a human lifetime.

flyinlow

 :cheers:,   So, does the car still hate you then?

poppa

I'm sure it does....give it a day or two.
God must love stupid people....he made a sh**load of 'em....

Matco tools...guaranteed for a lifetime. Just not a human lifetime.

tan top

Quote from: poppa on August 28, 2012, 07:12:44 PM
Well fellas , went for a ride tonight and......NO problems. Thanks again everyone for your help!  :cheers:

:coolgleamA:  :2thumbs: :2thumbs: good you got it sorted  :yesnod:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
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Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
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Chryco Psycho


C928BRAN

When i went from power drum, to power disc, i used the booster and master cylinder, for the drum brakes, and it worked perfectly. very very good brakes.