whats the best way to refinish dash templates?

[Pistolpete]

Hi guys,
Me again, started re-finishing the black plastic dash templates / bezels (?) on my 69. Started with a light sanding w/ coarse grit steel wool and have worked my way to fine, results are ok but I'm afraid I'll knock too much of the "grain" off the finish. Can anyone recommend a better method or is it just plain better to buy new ones (are they available?) considering the amount of time its taking to get ho hum results.

Also is there a stripper I can buy that would help? (theres a joke in there somewhere - LOL)

thanks

[bill440rt]

Pete,
A light scuffing with a fine Scotchbrite pad should be sufficient (the gray ones). Use 3M's fine line masking tape prior to painting. If you are painting them instead of having them chromed, spray paint the silver first and then mask.
I used Dupli-color Chrome paint for my current project (it's gonna be a driver), along with Plasti-kote's Satin Black.

[Troy]

Hi guys,
Me again, started re-finishing the black plastic dash templates / bezels (?) on my 69. Started with a light sanding w/ coarse grit steel wool and have worked my way to fine, results are ok but I'm afraid I'll knock too much of the "grain" off the finish. Can anyone recommend a better method or is it just plain better to buy new ones (are they available?) considering the amount of time its taking to get ho hum results.

Also is there a stripper I can buy that would help? (theres a joke in there somewhere - LOL)

thanks

I believe Drop Top said you can use oven cleaner to take the paint off. The bezels are not reproduced AND the chrome on them is vacuum plating so if it's messed up and you want them to look right you'll need to send them out (where's they'll strip the paint for you).

Troy

[Drop Top]

 I agree with Bill use the scotch brite pads. Then fallow the rest of what he said. Oven Cleaner has worked for me in the past, Usually. I have had some that it wouldn't work on. Make sure you clean them with wax and grease remover before you do any scuffing at all. Then wash them with warm water and dish soap after that. It wouldn't hurt to scuff with the pad and the warm water and dish soap at the same time. You want to get rid of all that Armor-All before you do painting and before contaminating the water.

[Pistolpete]

cool, thanks guys

[Drop Top]

Yesterday one of my customers brought in an armrest pad from his 68 Charger. It was dyed black over green. He is changing his interior to Pearl White. I soaked a rag with thinner and wiped off the old dye really easy. Now I don't know what it was dyed with before. Thay came with his car that way.  But I would be very careful doing this to any kind of plastic, like your insterment panels it may distort them or melt them. I would just use it on pieces like the soft vinal parts.

[bill440rt]

Yesterday one of my customers brought in an armrest pad from his 68 Charger. It was dyed black over green. He is changing his interior to Pearl White. I soaked a rag with thinner and wiped off the old dye really easy. Now I don't know what it was dyed with before. Thay came with his car that way.  But I would be very careful doing this to any kind of plastic, like your insterment panels it may distort them or melt them. I would just use it on pieces like the soft vinal parts.

Hey DT, quick question:
My current project '69 originally had a green interior, that someone dyed to black. I'm changing it to a white interior. After I strip the black (some of it does not come off on a couple pieces), got any tips on what to spray before going to white? A "vinyl dye primer" sort of speak.
I'm just thinking I'd have to use a lot of white to get it to cover. Maybe mist coat a neutral tan color first. Whaddya think?
Bill

[Drop Top]

adhesions a flexable sealer, its gray in color. Its made for rubber bumpers. It works very well to cover dark colors before spraying light colors. After you've striped the old dye off. Use an old tooth brush to get in those places that looks like stitching in the armrests and screw holes. Wipe it down with a good cleaner, Simple Green works for me. After you dry off the cleaner. Spray a good adhision promotor onto your pieces. I use a product thats called Bull Dog. Its cheaper then De Ponts and works just as well if not better. Then spray a light coat of SEM's sealer. Let it dry. Scuff it with a fine scuff pad, gray. Then spray on the dye.

We're using dye from MoPaints. Thats the only place I can find the right color of white. By doing it this way. The dye will go much farther. It stays on much better this way also. The flexable primer and adhesion promotor stays on much better then the dye alone. At least thats been my experience.