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Taking it apart

Started by SmashingPunkFan, April 30, 2012, 09:53:02 AM

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bill440rt

Not sure if it's your picture angle or not, but is the passenger side quarter panel caved in about 8 inches behind the rear tire area??  :shruggy: :scope:
Seems there are a lot of trouble areas with the passenger quarter. Looks like it needs quite a bit of metal work. If it's caved in that far the metal is likely stretched, which could mean a difficult repair.
If a whole quarter is beyond your means, then perhaps a good skin replacement would do the trick.

The driver's quarter doesn't look too bad. If that lower patch was replaced properly then you might be good to go. Otherwise you may want to remove that patch just to see if there is any cancer behind it & treat it so there are no problems down the road. Replace the lower then with new metal.
:2thumbs:
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

SmashingPunkFan

Quote from: bill440rt on June 01, 2012, 10:48:08 PM
Not sure if it's your picture angle or not, but is the passenger side quarter panel caved in about 8 inches behind the rear tire area??  :shruggy: :scope:
Seems there are a lot of trouble areas with the passenger quarter. Looks like it needs quite a bit of metal work. If it's caved in that far the metal is likely stretched, which could mean a difficult repair.
If a whole quarter is beyond your means, then perhaps a good skin replacement would do the trick.

The driver's quarter doesn't look too bad. If that lower patch was replaced properly then you might be good to go. Otherwise you may want to remove that patch just to see if there is any cancer behind it & treat it so there are no problems down the road. Replace the lower then with new metal.
:2thumbs:


It has been wrecked bad, or several times ob the passenger rear quarter, then dent pulled, so I believe it to have been that badly caved in before. I am gonna replace it with a quarter skin, and salvage whats good for patches on the sail panel. I figured it turned a evil into a decent save.
Still, when the metal gets here, I will be asking questions here :)
Tonight I'm Burning Star IV.
Projects:
1970 Dodge Charger SE (Main Project)
1973 Dodge Charger 400 cid. (Work in progress)
1988 Mustang 2.3 liter 4 cyl.

Looking for Seat tracks for bucket seats.

FLG

Put a new skin on the passenger and use the good metal from the old quarter to patch the driver side

nvrbdn

ive got a skin. :scratchchin: ive even got most of the drivers side. :scratchchin: but im in illinois very close to monster mopar in madison il. :yesnod: :scratchchin:
70 Dodge Charger 500
70 Duster (Moulin Rouge)
73 Challenger
50 Dodge Pilot House

SmashingPunkFan

Quote from: nvrbdn on June 04, 2012, 10:40:43 AM
ive got a skin. :scratchchin: ive even got most of the drivers side. :scratchchin: but im in illinois very close to monster mopar in madison il. :yesnod: :scratchchin:


I already placed my metal order... :( but thanks for the offer. and Im in northeast oklahoma :/ Ive got a new passenger side coming, many floor pans, etc... Im hoping to be driving by the fall :thumbs:
Tonight I'm Burning Star IV.
Projects:
1970 Dodge Charger SE (Main Project)
1973 Dodge Charger 400 cid. (Work in progress)
1988 Mustang 2.3 liter 4 cyl.

Looking for Seat tracks for bucket seats.

nvrbdn

dang, sorry for delaying. mine are cheap. northeast ok. my brother in law is in broken arrow right by tulsa.
70 Dodge Charger 500
70 Duster (Moulin Rouge)
73 Challenger
50 Dodge Pilot House

Indygenerallee

That piece that is rotted out by the window your gonna have to fab, I was hesitant to replace the full quarters on my car (I could have gotten by with skins) but after taking the dutchman panel off and seeing more rust than I thought the only true proper way is to replace it all because that rear pinchweld will hide a ton of rust!!
Sold my Charger unfortunately....never got it finished.

SmashingPunkFan

Yea, I figured. I think Im gonna just fab it outta the used quarters I take off, Ive got some ideas brewing :D
Tonight I'm Burning Star IV.
Projects:
1970 Dodge Charger SE (Main Project)
1973 Dodge Charger 400 cid. (Work in progress)
1988 Mustang 2.3 liter 4 cyl.

Looking for Seat tracks for bucket seats.

SmashingPunkFan

Started cutting out the trunk some. Any major tips I should watch out for?

F.Y.I. my lineup in this department is: trunk halfs, left and right, trunk pan extensions left, and right, trunk pan support kit, quarter skins, left and right

Is there a certain order these should be done?
Tonight I'm Burning Star IV.
Projects:
1970 Dodge Charger SE (Main Project)
1973 Dodge Charger 400 cid. (Work in progress)
1988 Mustang 2.3 liter 4 cyl.

Looking for Seat tracks for bucket seats.

Cooter

 :2thumbs:

That has got to be the suckiest part of ANY restoration. Looks like you got a good start there.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

SmashingPunkFan

Quote from: Cooter on September 17, 2012, 11:27:16 AM
:2thumbs:

That has got to be the suckiest part of ANY restoration. Looks like you got a good start there.

Thanks man. its already cut me several times. lol
Tonight I'm Burning Star IV.
Projects:
1970 Dodge Charger SE (Main Project)
1973 Dodge Charger 400 cid. (Work in progress)
1988 Mustang 2.3 liter 4 cyl.

Looking for Seat tracks for bucket seats.

SmashingPunkFan

How can I take these off without tearing up the tail light bar?

Tonight I'm Burning Star IV.
Projects:
1970 Dodge Charger SE (Main Project)
1973 Dodge Charger 400 cid. (Work in progress)
1988 Mustang 2.3 liter 4 cyl.

Looking for Seat tracks for bucket seats.

Dmichels

Yes drill out the spot welds When you reinstall it just plug weld the holes use a peice of copper on the back
68 440 4 speed 4.10

JB400

Quote from: Dmichels on September 18, 2012, 05:21:41 PM
Yes drill out the spot welds When you reinstall it just plug weld the holes use a peice of copper on the back
Spot weld cutter works the best. Your local bodyshop can get you some.  Drill bit works as well.

SmashingPunkFan

Will I HAVE to spot weld the new back in? Or am I looking at plug welding?
if plug is it, what do I do? lol

P.S.
Getting progress done feels amazing!  :cheers:
Tonight I'm Burning Star IV.
Projects:
1970 Dodge Charger SE (Main Project)
1973 Dodge Charger 400 cid. (Work in progress)
1988 Mustang 2.3 liter 4 cyl.

Looking for Seat tracks for bucket seats.

JB400

Plug welding is what the factory did.  The equipment to do plug welding can be pretty pricey.  Same way with having someone plug weld it for you.  Spot welding is alright for the job and is what everyone normally does, especially if they're on a budget.  Tip for welding thin stuff; space out your welds every inch or so.  It keeps you from warping your metal.  When you weld your seams, same technique.
Glad your having fun! :2thumbs:

SmashingPunkFan

Quote from: stroker400 wedge on September 18, 2012, 10:33:43 PM
Plug welding is what the factory did.  The equipment to do plug welding can be pretty pricey.  Same way with having someone plug weld it for you.  Spot welding is alright for the job and is what everyone normally does, especially if they're on a budget.  Tip for welding thin stuff; space out your welds every inch or so.  It keeps you from warping your metal.  When you weld your seams, same technique.
Glad your having fun! :2thumbs:

I already have a MIG. Anything I can do with that?  :scratchchin:
Tonight I'm Burning Star IV.
Projects:
1970 Dodge Charger SE (Main Project)
1973 Dodge Charger 400 cid. (Work in progress)
1988 Mustang 2.3 liter 4 cyl.

Looking for Seat tracks for bucket seats.

JB400

Best thing to start with.  You can do your spot welding with that.  Like I said, space yours spot welds about and inch to inch and a half apart so you don't warp your panels.  When you do your butt welds, do the same thing.  Wait about 30 secs to allow your metal to cool.

SmashingPunkFan

Quote from: stroker400 wedge link=topic=91241.msg1087834#msg1087834  You can do your spot welding with that.
/quote]


Awesome. whats the method on this? drill out new spaces for spot welds?  :scratchchin:
Tonight I'm Burning Star IV.
Projects:
1970 Dodge Charger SE (Main Project)
1973 Dodge Charger 400 cid. (Work in progress)
1988 Mustang 2.3 liter 4 cyl.

Looking for Seat tracks for bucket seats.

JB400

Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on September 19, 2012, 09:10:44 AM
Quote from: stroker400 wedge link=topic=91241.msg1087834#msg1087834  You can do your spot welding with that.
/quote]


Awesome. whats the method on this? drill out new spaces for spot welds?  :scratchchin:
Yes, drill your holes. space them about an inch apart, or measure the distance between your spot welds on your original panels.  You might want to coat the inside of your framerails with some weld proof primer.

SmashingPunkFan

Quote from: stroker400 wedge on September 19, 2012, 11:08:05 AM
Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on September 19, 2012, 09:10:44 AM
Quote from: stroker400 wedge link=topic=91241.msg1087834#msg1087834  You can do your spot welding with that.
/quote]


Awesome. whats the method on this? drill out new spaces for spot welds?  :scratchchin:
Yes, drill your holes. space them about an inch apart, or measure the distance between your spot welds on your original panels.  You might want to coat the inside of your framerails with some weld proof primer.

is this the kinda opportunity I should take advantage of, and sand blast, or soda blast the rails?
And my old pans are completely gone, I shaved them out with the air hammer.
Tonight I'm Burning Star IV.
Projects:
1970 Dodge Charger SE (Main Project)
1973 Dodge Charger 400 cid. (Work in progress)
1988 Mustang 2.3 liter 4 cyl.

Looking for Seat tracks for bucket seats.

JB400

Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on September 19, 2012, 12:06:27 PM
Quote from: stroker400 wedge on September 19, 2012, 11:08:05 AM
Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on September 19, 2012, 09:10:44 AM
Quote from: stroker400 wedge link=topic=91241.msg1087834#msg1087834  You can do your spot welding with that.
/quote]


Awesome. whats the method on this? drill out new spaces for spot welds?  :scratchchin:
Yes, drill your holes. space them about an inch apart, or measure the distance between your spot welds on your original panels.  You might want to coat the inside of your framerails with some weld proof primer.

is this the kinda opportunity I should take advantage of, and sand blast, or soda blast the rails?
And my old pans are completely gone, I shaved them out with the air hammer.
I strongly recommend it.  That's what several people are doing.  It does help keep you from having some issues later.
I'd just measure out every inch to an inch and a half for your weld spacing. It's only on your rails and supports that you need to spot weld.  You will have to do a solid weld where you have a butt weld.  Just don't to one continuous weld.   You will have to do spot welds and just keep going back until it's fully welded.

SmashingPunkFan

Quote from: stroker400 wedge on September 19, 2012, 12:14:28 PM
Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on September 19, 2012, 12:06:27 PM
Quote from: stroker400 wedge on September 19, 2012, 11:08:05 AM
Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on September 19, 2012, 09:10:44 AM
Quote from: stroker400 wedge link=topic=91241.msg1087834#msg1087834  You can do your spot welding with that.
/quote]


Awesome. whats the method on this? drill out new spaces for spot welds?  :scratchchin:
Yes, drill your holes. space them about an inch apart, or measure the distance between your spot welds on your original panels.  You might want to coat the inside of your framerails with some weld proof primer.

is this the kinda opportunity I should take advantage of, and sand blast, or soda blast the rails?
And my old pans are completely gone, I shaved them out with the air hammer.
I strongly recommend it.  That's what several people are doing.  It does help keep you from having some issues later.
I'd just measure out every inch to an inch and a half for your weld spacing. It's only on your rails and supports that you need to spot weld.  You will have to do a solid weld where you have a butt weld.  Just don't to one continuous weld.   You will have to do spot welds and just keep going back until it's fully welded.


So where it meets the wheel wells?
where it meets the trunk pan extension, its spot welded
The part that caps off the end of the frame rails is spot welded.
Whooo... I need some suggestions lol
Tonight I'm Burning Star IV.
Projects:
1970 Dodge Charger SE (Main Project)
1973 Dodge Charger 400 cid. (Work in progress)
1988 Mustang 2.3 liter 4 cyl.

Looking for Seat tracks for bucket seats.

SmashingPunkFan

Is soda blasting better? or is media blasting better?

And for spot welds. Is it better to weld on the old spot welds? or can they land anywhere?

Anyone wanna share some pics on this process? :)
Tonight I'm Burning Star IV.
Projects:
1970 Dodge Charger SE (Main Project)
1973 Dodge Charger 400 cid. (Work in progress)
1988 Mustang 2.3 liter 4 cyl.

Looking for Seat tracks for bucket seats.

JB400

Media blasting is more aggressive than soda blasting.  Soda blasting uses an industrial baking soda.  Media uses anything from walnut shells to glass beads to the slag out of the furnaces from electrical plants.
As far as welding, they could technically go anywhere, but putting them on metal is better.

As far as pics, you'd have to browse some old threads.  I have, and remember seeing some, but don't remember which ones.  Also, 69hemi.com has plenty of pics.  It might be wortha look. :2thumbs:

Done some looking.  Ryan is the one you need to be talking to. He tore his down that far and maybe farther.  He has pics on here.