Thinking about installing a Hydraulic Clutch

[General_01]

I am thinking about installing a hydraulic clutch on the Super Bee. I found this one from American Powertrain. Has anyone used this setup? Any others out there that anyone can recommend?

http://americanpowertrain.com/i-8521613-hydramax-hydraulic-clutch-actuator-system-for-mopar-with-23-spline-a-833.html

[General_01]

Looks like not many people. It seems some people on Moparts have dealt with them and they are great to deal with. I also used the search function here and found a few people who decided to go the slave cylinder route. After thinking about the two, I think I am going to go that route. Don't need to drop the tranny to install or fix if something should go wrong. I will need to fab up some mounting stuff, but I have more time than money.

[Chryco Psycho]

I have installed 4 hyd systems but never used that one , both Mcleod &Tilton make hyd slave units &I have used both , I prefer the McLeod unit , ,the master is the issue , I used Keislers junk twice it works ok but with  no bleed system on it & it takes hours to get it to bleed out the top , , I used a brake mastercyl on one build but I do not like the feel of it either , hte travel is short but the pressure is too high at the pedal , Classic has a bleedable system which maybe the best master to use .

[General_01]

Thanks Chryco. I will check them out.

[BrianShaughnessy]

I have installed 4 hyd systems but never used that one , both Mcleod &Tilton make hyd slave units &I have used both , I prefer the McLeod unit , ,the master is the issue , I used Keislers junk twice it works ok but with  no bleed system on it & it takes hours to get it to bleed out the top , , I used a brake mastercyl on one build but I do not like the feel of it either , hte travel is short but the pressure is too high at the pedal , Classic has a bleedable system which maybe the best master to use .

The original Keisler no bleed system was their own junk...   which was self bleeding but often leaked air into the master and left me pedal less at the wrong time.   Keisler then started using Mcleod masters and a flex hose with a bleeder which I switched to several years back and haven't had a problem with since   ( of course,  I had to pay for it  ).

Do you have a link to that Classic system?     There's a certain 69 with 650 hp stroker /  18 spline that's owned by a girl being put together in New Windsor...  pretty sure she's gonna need a hydraulic system.

[Chryco Psycho]

This is the site , I think Tony Edler is the contact there http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/transmission/?p=23&sb=0&r=15

[Rolling_Thunder]

Bull: Sounds like Keisler


I made my own hydraulic set up with a McLeod slave, my own bracket, hose routing, etc.  It takes some effort to operate the clutch but I like that - I hate really light clutches. However, it does not take an uncomfortable amount of effort to operate.

[General_01]

I went with the Wilwood 3/4 MC kit  ( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-3374/ ) and their pull-type Slave ( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-1333/ ).

My cousin and I put it in this weekend. We made a bracket for the slave from the tranny crossmember and used the existing hole in the fork. We bent a 3/16 brake line between the MC and slave.

The problem now seems to be that the clutch pressure is too much. When the slave is not connected to the fork, the system works. Push the clutch and the slave rod moves. When we connect it to the fork, we can't even push the cluth pedal down. It is rock hard. I have a McLeod Street Twin diaphram clutch.

Anybody have any suggestions? I have never dealt with a hydraulic clutch.

[Rolling_Thunder]

do you still have the over center spring installed?  I am using the system i mentioned earlier and I was having a bear of a time pushing the clutch in on my diaphram clutch so I reinstalled the over center spring (took it off because everyone here said to remove it with a diaphram clutch) and now it is slightly more pedal effort than a stock clutch set up.

[Budnicks]

I have used a Tilton pedal, slave & mastercylinder/reservoir, many moons ago now, but it worked great for a street rod, with limited room for clutch linkage, there is also companies that make hydraulic throw out bearing eliminating the slave cylinder all together, I can't think of a name/brand off the top of my head.... Maybe try Hurst, Zoom, CenterForce, McCloud, Shaffer, Crower, Ram, Lenco... not sure who really

[General_01]

do you still have the over center spring installed?  I am using the system i mentioned earlier and I was having a bear of a time pushing the clutch in on my diaphram clutch so I reinstalled the over center spring (took it off because everyone here said to remove it with a diaphram clutch) and now it is slightly more pedal effort than a stock clutch set up.

Took it off when I pput the Street Twin in. I can hook it up and see if it helps. Thanks.

I have used a Tilton pedal, slave & mastercylinder/reservoir, many moons ago now, but it worked great for a street rod, with limited room for clutch linkage, there is also companies that make hydraulic throw out bearing eliminating the slave cylinder all together, I can't think of a name/brand off the top of my head.... Maybe try Hurst, Zoom, CenterForce, McCloud, Shaffer, Crower, Ram, Lenco... not sure who really

Didn't want to got the hydraulic throw out bearing route. Looks good, but didn't want to pull tranny for install/repairs.

[General_01]

I think I realize my mistake by doing a little more searching. I connected the MC rod to the clutch pedal on the lower half of the arm closer to the foot pad. According to the Wilwood site, this should be closer to the pivot point of the clutch pedal near the top. They say the ratio of the length of the clutch pedal to the center of foot pad divided by the length of the pivot point to where you connect the MC rod should be about 6:1. This means the force you push on the pedal will be multiplied 6 times. Right now we are probably at a 1.5:1 ratio. Next weekend we remount the master and see if it's any better.

[General_01]

We were finally able to get back to the car. We made a bracket  that would mount to the firewall which the MC would bolt to so that we could get the angle we needed. Definately was the problem. Pedal pushes nice and easy now. Drove it home. After I got home I had to to a little adjustment to the clutch. It was close when I left my uncle and cousins place, but I had to get going.