I bet it's the bulkhead connector

[myk]

Ok, the car's getting completely rewired however the shop and everyone else in San Diego that knows the car is BUGGING me to go from an externally regulated 'alt to an internally regulated one.  I just installed my 90 amp externally regulated 'amp less than 1000 miles ago and have no issues with it, so personally I see no need to switch to the internally regulated one.  Opinions, guys? 

[Paul G]

There is nothing wrong with your externally regulated alt. It just requires wiring between the alt and the regulator on the fire wall. No real reason to spend more $$ on a new alt. Unless you want to switch it out anyway and give the 90 amp unit to one of us. 

[myk]

Would any of you want it?  I don't see why there're so many people hot and heavy for internally regulated 'alts...

[Nacho-RT74]

To me, is wonderfull when reg fails no need to remove alt and open it .

However I haven't needed to change the reg in maybe... lets say NEVER since I rewired my car. Only has changed it to the Mopar replacement part to make an older school look, instead replacement chromed unit, with penstastar piece on engine bay

[A383Wing]

if it ain't broke...don't touch it (referring to alternator choice)

Bryan

[myk]

To me, is wonderfull when reg fails no need to remove alt and open it .

However I haven't needed to change the reg in maybe... lets say NEVER since I rewired my car. Only has changed it to the Mopar replacement part to make an older school look, instead replacement chromed unit, with penstastar piece on engine bay

Well that's my argument against the internally regulated 'alts: if the regulator goes out chances are you're going to have to replace the whole damn thing, whereas replacing an external regulator isn't so involved.  Well, at least there'll be less wires running around in my engine bay...

[thrillbilly]

I did the MAD electric fix to bypass the bulkhead connection.  Mine was melted and I was getting electric "spikes", all my gauges would peg themselves and come back to normal.  I completely bypassed the ammeter, the wires were getting melted going into that also.  I would NOT use a crimp only butt connector on any high voltage wire, it needs to be crimped with a non-insulated connector, then soldered and insulated.  I never wanted to solder anything until I bought the solder gun, it is super easy and a way better connection.  I added several relays for my a/c blower and all my headlights, huge difference.

[myk]

I did the MAD electric fix to bypass the bulkhead connection.  Mine was melted and I was getting electric "spikes", all my gauges would peg themselves and come back to normal.  I completely bypassed the ammeter, the wires were getting melted going into that also.  I would NOT use a crimp only butt connector on any high voltage wire, it needs to be crimped with a non-insulated connector, then soldered and insulated.  I never wanted to solder anything until I bought the solder gun, it is super easy and a way better connection.  I added several relays for my a/c blower and all my headlights, huge difference.

Wow good job-your car sounds solid, electrically.  Meanwhile, my new EZ wiring harness has literally "turned the lights on" in my car.  Anything eletrical is rock solid/stable and it runs that much better.  Sure, I had a 90 amp 'alt to help out before, but with the new 130 amp 'alt, fresh wiring and lotsa new sockets, switches and whatnot it's in the best shape of its life, electrically.  I must say that the super-loud electric fuel pump is super annoying, though...

Edit:  Wow!  I didn't know we had a map light!