Block sanding question

[superbirdtom]

Not sure I'd use the Shopline clear. Pretty sure thats what I put on my Ram Truck 6 years ago. Do you wanta see what it looks like now   LEON.

           I have been using ppg  2021 clear for ever and the dx hardner.   but now  at 110 dollars a quart for catalyst and a god awful ammount for  the 2021 clear.  I just ordered for the first time the shopline clear.  I used it on a couple bumper covers and jambing parts and thats it.   I use the mipa  now.  and I wouldn't chance using shopline for a large exterior job.     

[69finder]

Check out this place for paints;

http://www.thepaintersedge.com/categories/paint/mixed-paint.html

Limco and Limco Supreme are really nice.  HD Uno and Glasurit are aweeesome!  Check out the prices and compare.  I would spend a touch more for slightly better paint as you're putting in alot of effort.  A few hundred here or there won't break the deal will it? 

I sprayed Glasurit and I'm glad I paid a little more for it.  It covers in one coat (!) and it lays out soo easy.  I used all of 2 quarts of paints (just exterior) on my Porsche and it's a cracker.

[1BAD68]

One step closer. Sprayed epoxy primer on everything.
I'm thinking the next step is to paint the jambs color, assemble, tape off jambs, spray the G2 and then block the exterior.

[69finder]

Cool idea using cardboard for the door opening!  I usually use the plastic baggie stuff and it suuuccks.  Gonna steal your idea!

Good progress!

[elitecustombody]

One step closer. Sprayed epoxy primer on everything.
I'm thinking the next step is to paint the jambs color, assemble, tape off jambs, spray the G2 and then block the exterior.

Why not finish with priming and  blocking completely before paint? It's like painting half a car and start cutting quarters off.Makes no sense 

[Dino]

Yeah I'd reassemble, line up doors, fenders etc, then blocksand, take it back apart and paint the whole thing, no making jambs or anything like that, then reassemble and done.  Once you have everything lined up you can use small blocks of wood or plastic to use as spacers so next time you're ready to put the doors in you can tape the blocks to the inside jambs and rest the doors on them, instant perfect fit!

Did you fix the corner where rocker meets quarter?  It never matches the lower door corner.  Now would be the time to do so if you skipped it.

[1BAD68]

Too late I already sprayed the jambs, then assembled and aligned, taped the jambs and sprayed poly primer.
Here it is waiting to be blocked...

[lexxman]

Looks good it's always nice when you progress.

[1BAD68]

Got started on the block sanding. This Featherfill G2 is hard to sand.
The can say's start with 220 and go to 320-400 grit but I'd be here all year so I started with 120 and then going to 220 works better.
What finish grit should I end with?
The Featherfill say's 400 but the paint sheet say's 600-800.

[jaak]

Peoples methods vary a little but on my charger, the first time I primed with poly I used 180, after second round of poly I blocked with 220, then I primed with urethane, I blocked with 400, then a final coat of urethane and wet sanded with 500 (I used 500 because it was a solid color, if I was painting it metallic, I would have used 600).

Jason

[elitecustombody]

If you want the smoothest surface without ripples,use 120 or even 80 to start and make sure to keep fresh paper,220 is not enough IMO.

[bill440rt]

x2 

Start with 100 (or 80 grit just to cut the surface), lightly guide coat again & switch to 220. Prime with hi-build or equivalant. From there you can start with 220 or 320, another guide coat & finish with 400-600 before sealer & paint. 

[1BAD68]

Ok thanks for the advice.
Another question, I'm going to be spraying the Kirker Ultra HS clear coat and it say's to use a 1.3 - 1.5mm tip for an HVLP gun.
I'm picking up a new HVLP gun and they come with either a 1.3mm, 1.4mm or a 1.5mm, which one?

[superbirdtom]

I use a 1.4 tip for my basecoat and 1.4 for my clear.  seems to work ok for me.    my Sata 3000 can hoard on plenty of clear.  how are you going to mask off jambs wothout a tape line?

[elitecustombody]

I'd stick with 1.3 or 1.4 tip. Tom, I guess we shall see

[1BAD68]

I wont have to tape them now, a little silver over spray on the jambs won't hurt because they're already silver.
Yeah I know this isn't ideal but it works for me.

[superbirdtom]

if you use edge blending tape  it works great.  they now sell also a foam BLUE colored edgeblend foam tape that works better than the white round foam aperature tape. 

[Dino]

if you use edge blending tape  it works great.  they now sell also a foam BLUE colored edgeblend foam tape that works better than the white round foam aperature tape. 

Yep and it makes cleaning up the jambs much easier afterwards.  It's the best way to go in this case.

[bill440rt]

I've been hearing LOTS of good things about the new 3M blue jamb masking foam tape. Supposed to be way better than the former white round DART tape. 

[superbirdtom]

     The blue foam tape is very good in certain situations.  you have to really think when you use it , because to maximize it  you have to do the opposite of what you might have to do using the old round  white stuff.  which works in some situations.   With the blue its very wide and has a flap so you can mask betwen the front fender and front door. you just open front door and put blue foam tape onto the fender. then close door . their will be some sticking out and you pop it into place using a stir stik, now you have that dratted fender door gap masked off in seconds. or rear door to front door in seconds .

          I still go back to my tape ezmasker edge bender for some places.  I actually use all three on one car.    Im glad they came out with the blue though.

[hemi-hampton]

good choice, You will see the difference immediatly. allow to flash off for 3 days at least  unlesss its 70+ degrees.  put on three complete wet coats of it   let it flask for 10 minutes between coats and put it on as thick as possible without runs.   and whenever repriming any poly primer. if you do sand it and need to recoat end with 240 grit.  for the next coat to get good adhesion.  Ive seen people sand poly primers like slicksand down to 1000 grit then recoat.  and the whole coat delaminate down the road. or even in the shop where he tried to blow it dry and huge chunks pop off.  rule is that whenever you get ready to paint and you have a poly primer base .  youve gotta epoxy prime it . otherwise paint will come off down the road.

No need to confuse this guy.I think he has enough on his plate.Anyone that finishes sanding primer with 1000 grit is a moron.Why not finish with 2000 and buff before paint?    600 is the finest grit I'd use.   And there is no need for epoxy if painting over Featherfill G2. I've been using it for as long it's been out and been using Slicksand before Featherfill came out. I don't use epoxy over Featherfill and never had paint peeling . And why would anyone use epoxy over cured polyester primer before paint? Why not use a tintable catalized sealer? I know epoxy can be reduced and used as a sealer,but why ask for problems and load unneeded material on a car? Epoxy takes a while to cure,so it stays soft til it's cured and  is too thick to be used as a sealer IMO compared to a true sealer,which goes on smooth leaving satin finish with no buildup.

BTW,OP Evercoat Featherfill G2 is what you need,not Slicksand .   G2 is improved version of Slicksand.  Slicksand is like brick analog mobile phone and Featherfill G2 is like IPhone 5.  

You say here you been using Slick sand before Featherfill came out. How is that Possible, Featherfill came out before Slicksand, I was using Feather fill in the 1980's in a light bluish gray can. Anybody else remember this. LEON.

[Charger-Bodie]

He is talking about Featherfil "G2".

[superbirdtom]

good choice, You will see the difference immediatly. allow to flash off for 3 days at least  unlesss its 70+ degrees.  put on three complete wet coats of it   let it flask for 10 minutes between coats and put it on as thick as possible without runs.   and whenever repriming any poly primer. if you do sand it and need to recoat end with 240 grit.  for the next coat to get good adhesion.  Ive seen people sand poly primers like slicksand down to 1000 grit then recoat.  and the whole coat delaminate down the road. or even in the shop where he tried to blow it dry and huge chunks pop off.  rule is that whenever you get ready to paint and you have a poly primer base .  youve gotta epoxy prime it . otherwise paint will come off down the road.

No need to confuse this guy.I think he has enough on his plate.Anyone that finishes sanding primer with 1000 grit is a moron.Why not finish with 2000 and buff before paint?    600 is the finest grit I'd use.   And there is no need for epoxy if painting over Featherfill G2. I've been using it for as long it's been out and been using Slicksand before Featherfill came out. I don't use epoxy over Featherfill and never had paint peeling . And why would anyone use epoxy over cured polyester primer before paint? Why not use a tintable catalized sealer? I know epoxy can be reduced and used as a sealer,but why ask for problems and load unneeded material on a car? Epoxy takes a while to cure,so it stays soft til it's cured and  is too thick to be used as a sealer IMO compared to a true sealer,which goes on smooth leaving satin finish with no buildup.

BTW,OP Evercoat Featherfill G2 is what you need,not Slicksand .   G2 is improved version of Slicksand.  Slicksand is like brick analog mobile phone and Featherfill G2 is like IPhone 5.  

You say here you been using Slick sand before Featherfill came out. How is that Possible, Featherfill came out before Slicksand, I was using Feather fill in the 1980's in a light bluish gray can. Anybody else remember this. LEON. 

I said same thing in a previous post , hey anyone can make a mistake.  I used featherfill and AMAK ,do you remember that one. theyre all basically fiberglass primers. as when I got my first job as an aircraft painter in 1977 ,we used amak to prime all the plastic wing tips and fiberglass parts on some planes .  then corlar epoxy by dupont. then I forget what type of paint  but we used imron for the colors stripes . as they had the widest color choices of the time.

[elitecustombody]

He is talking about Featherfil "G2".

Yep

[1BAD68]

Ok I got it all blocked out to 320 grit and have a stack of 500 grit paper here.
Should I block it with 500 before sealer or after?
I noticed some sealer's are not sandable and some are, which should I get?