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Anybody do points distributor to electronic swap?

Started by RIDGERACER383, January 19, 2012, 08:03:27 AM

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RIDGERACER383

I just purchased a proform electronic distributor to replace my points that's in it.I have read the instructions about the wiring but wondering,will I not be using my original wiring from the distributor,coil and ballast resistor?the way I'm reading it is I'll be running all new wires to everything.also is there any video tutorials on this?
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

justcruisin

What have you got exactly, the proform distributor can come as a kit with all that is needed including wiring, very similar to the stock Chrysler electronic set up. You can't use the points wiring. Maybe post a pic of what you have.

RIDGERACER383

I have it figured out now.I found another tutorial online that was crystal clear.I got the box mounted right now.I'm now finding TDC with the old dist.I'll post on here later and let you know how it goes.

I have the proform full kit with dist,box and wiring and ballast
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

Back N Black

 I did not have good luck with the Proform Distrubutor, 3500 miles and it died. Hope you have better luck.

71green go

Quote from: RIDGERACER383 on January 19, 2012, 02:53:33 PM
I have it figured out now.I found another tutorial online that was crystal clear.I got the box mounted right now.I'm now finding TDC with the old dist.I'll post on here later and let you know how it goes.

I have the proform full kit with dist,box and wiring and ballast

Anyway I can get a copy of instructions and the website you found for wiring?.........I lost mine!

RIDGERACER383

Heres the PDF I used for my 68 Charger.

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf

The second page is what you need if your getting rid of your points going to electronic.
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

RIDGERACER383

Quote from: Back N Black on January 19, 2012, 03:39:03 PM
I did not have good luck with the Proform Distrubutor, 3500 miles and it died. Hope you have better luck.

I hope it does good.I wont really know until I Find my brake line thats leaking.No brakes at all.
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

71green go

Quote from: RIDGERACER383 on January 19, 2012, 06:30:28 PM
Heres the PDF I used for my 68 Charger.

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf

The second page is what you need if your getting rid of your points going to electronic.

Thanks!!

RIDGERACER383

1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

RIDGERACER383

Well,I got everything hooked up for the electronic conversion and I'm not getting any fire..when you first hit the starter you get a tiny spark and that's it.I think it's because my engine isn't grounded to the body.so I'll try a ground strap and see if that fixes it.I'll get back with you guys and let you know how it goes.
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

Chryco Psycho

Check the gap between the pick up & reluctor , it should be .008 , they will always spark when the key is turned on & off , could be the ECU is not grounded properly too, or is bad

RIDGERACER383

I have the ECU mounted to my fender well,so I'm guessing that's grounded..I'll check the gap too to make sure....thax
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

justcruisin

If you have checked your earths and reluctor gap and that's OK you will have to recheck your wiring against your instructions, you must have power if it gives one spark, check the reluctor is turning when you crank the engine, check for shorts to ground and the resistance value of your winding in the distributor - if you put a ohm meter between the two wires you should get between 500-1000 ohms, not sure exactly with a proform distributor. Also check you have a circuit through your ballast. You may have to substitute a ECU.

RIDGERACER383

Well I grounded the engine with 14 gauge wire through the bolt on the valve cover to the sheet metal screw holding the ECU on the inner fender..nothing.I checked to see if I'm getting current through the ballast and the blue wire I spliced going to the ECU.I've got power there with the key on.I've got no fire when cranking it.havnt checked the gap yet,but I would imagine it would be getting fire to it even if the gap was off some.maybe the ECU is bad.it had instructions on wiring the ballast resister,but I already have wiring for the ballast from the factory.so I only needed to splice the blue wire into the hot side and run the black wire to the negative side of the coil.Unless I have to run all that new wiring.not sure.I suck at wiring.
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

Chryco Psycho

well the spark with key on/off shows the ign is working , you need to check the gap , if the pick up cannot "see" the reluctor going by it will not trigger the ECU

RIDGERACER383

I'm going to check the gap in the morning.I did check to see if I'm getting power out to the coil and it's good.also I read other thread on here where somebody had the same problem with there ECU mounted to the fender well.they remounted the ECU to the firewall and it started right up.so I'll check that too.I left all my wires long just in case.
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

RIDGERACER383

Can't check my gap I don't have a copper feeler gauge.it's brand new and is supposed to be set already at least very close.I put bolts in the ECU istead of those sheet metal screws it's tight.I'm going to a salvage yard and getting a couple ground straps for the engine.if that don't work I'll try one more spot for the ecu and if that don't work I'm putting the points back on and just deal with it.at least it ran with the points.
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

RIDGERACER383

Also after I reground the ecu and turned the key to On it ignited through the exhaust only did it Once
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55

justcruisin

You will get far better performance with the electronic set up. If you have your wiring right and done the tests that have been posted the fault is likely to be in the ECU.
Also the electronic set up uses a different coil but it should still fire with your points coil.
Maybe check your voltage, you may have a bit of VD and it is dropping off when cranking or loosing it alltogether - unlikely if it was OK with the points though.

RIDGERACER383

Well guys its fixed.My Dad helped me today and we ran through all the work that was done,testing different grounds,swapping coils with no results.The problem was the distibutor wasn't set down in place all the way.Pulled the cap cranked the motor and the button didn't even turn.I'm glad Dad pulled that cap because I was at the end of my rope.

When I was trouble shooting too I found my splice was a little iffy so i'm going to soder it and shrink it.

Thanks for all of your alls help....
1968 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl / 8.75 Rear 3.55