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Rebuit Engine 4 Years Ago - Need To Break In Cam

Started by 69fourspd, October 10, 2011, 12:25:27 AM

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poppa

Years ago ,for break in, we were told to drive it. If a 4 speed ,in second get the r's up to where you wwould shift and back off the throttle like 15 times. We were told it helps seat the rings. Don't know if right but, never had a problem.
God must love stupid people....he made a sh**load of 'em....

Matco tools...guaranteed for a lifetime. Just not a human lifetime.

69fourspd

Thanks Terrible One!  I will put the trans in neutral. 

Can't drive the car since it is just a shell. I am hoping to get the motor running so I can bring it in for final paint. Wanted to get the motor running in case I botched something and had to pull the motor.  I dont like working around expensive fresh paint with big blocks of cast iron swinging around  ;)

HeavyFuel

Same boat here...440, stock specs, been sitting on an engine stand for 4 years in an airtight bag...until about 3 months ago.  She's looking SWEET.

OK....please educate me .  I'm guessing the cam lube is kinda thick type stuff.  Why would it have to be re-applied?  Wouldn't it still be in place, for the most part?  What about the oil?  Shouldn't there be a film which would be enough to protect the surfaces until the engine turns over a few times and is re-oiled?

Does turning the engine over by hand, such as when you replace a torque converter/flexplate, or check for TDC at #1, oil the engine?

I put in a blocked crossover VP a couple weeks ago, and it looked like a bunch of Vaseline looking stuff was still all over the cam.  The lobes themselves did look pretty clean, though.

?

Chryco Psycho

the cam lube "should" still be there , the black moly stuff will stay on , the red lube will drip off over time if looked coated still when you had the intake off you should be fine .
turning the engine over oils nothing & only helps to wipe the minimal lube on the cam lobes off

69fourspd

The cam lube is thick.  There were two kinds - the assembly lube I got from Comp Cams, and Moly lube, which is like a paste.  It seems most of mine wore off from turning the engine assembly over the years and a few hot summers may have helped.  When I pulled my valley pan it was pretty much dry.  I got the moly lube and rubbed on the lobes with my finger.  The lobes will be the piece taking the abuse, so you will want those to be coated well.  

When you turn the engine by hand it doesnt get oiled.  You will need a long hex rod to turn the oil pump with the dist. out.  This would hook up to a half inch drill and go counter clockwise.  After a few seconds you will feel the drill pull which is the oil pump kicking in with pressure.  I got the rod from Mancini an few years ago.  

When I pulled of the valley pan I pretty much destroyed it so I had to pop for another $25.

Glad I did it though.  It is good piece of mind.  When I drained the oil and cut the filter open I didnt see any metal shavings - not even small dust like particles on the drain magnet.  

69fourspd

One thing on the lube - When I assembled I used the red install lube (kind of liquid).  This may have been why is was gone when I opened it up. If you used moly lube, it may have stuck on better over time (looks like dark vaseline).