News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

SSBC disc upgrade completed w/pics

Started by 69pistolgripRT, January 16, 2006, 02:05:19 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

69pistolgripRT

Got the new SSBC discs done for the front. Everything was very easy and bolted on with little trouble. Took about a day but that included running into town because I couldn't find my double flaring kit for plumbing in the new proportion valve.

I probably would not want to do this without air tools but could be done that way pretty easily. I went with a different master cylinder than the one from the kit. This will be my wife's car (roadrunner convertible, actually its a Satellite clone...I never know what to refer to it as...)
and I went with a modern M/C for a little more peace of mind. Also, easy for her to check fluid. Had it already in the garage from a past project.

I mounted the proportion valve just behind the front supports for the torsion bar. Very easy to adjust and not visible in the engine bay at all. When I get around to pulling the engine and spraying the bay and detailing I don't want it clogging things up.

Braking is, obviously, immensely better than before. I feel much more comfortable with her driving the car now. Brakes about the same as my '69 Charger with factory Bendix disc set-up. Overall, I am very pleased with the kit, and next to a new wiring harness is some of the best money spent thus far.

now to the undercoating removal.....
1969 RT 440 Pistol Grip 4-speed

Savannah, Ga

69pistolgripRT

.
1969 RT 440 Pistol Grip 4-speed

Savannah, Ga

is_it_EVER_done?

DO NOT LET YOUR WIFE DRIVE THAT CAR!!! I'm not kidding. You have the calipers on the wrong sides w/the bleeders facing down. even if it feels ok, it's extremely dangerous, as you have air in the system that can cause brake failure under hard braking, and the brake lines could easily be torn due to the wrong routing!

This is no joke! change it immediately. The bleeders always face up, and to the inside on all disks. I just wish I had some way to contact you other than this forum.

Mfr426

WOW! Good job noiticing that.

I did the same when I did my A-body swap. I couldn't bleed them correctly and it took a while to figure out why. I swapped sides and all it good. Gotta fix that one...

Mike R

Rolling_Thunder

Wow - good job someone noticed that - yes they are on the incorrect sides...   swap them so the bleeders are on top...   
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

69pistolgripRT

I will definitely fix that immediately. Thank you for posting- these are the things that make our hobby a good one.

cheers brother :cheers:

Nothing more important to me than my family-certainly not my embarassment at installing the calipers on the wrong side. Thanks.
1969 RT 440 Pistol Grip 4-speed

Savannah, Ga

Just 6T9 CHGR

Wow I'm glad someone noticed that as well......I knew it looked strange compared to mine.

Now I see you added a more modern M/C.  How is the pedal effort with that one?

I used the A body piece they suppiled in the kit and in the beginning I felt the pedal effort to stop the car increased immensly over the drums.

Now that I have about 1k miles on it I think either the pads are now burnished to the rotors or I am just used to it now.
The car stops on a dime (and more than twice...no fade like the drums had) but it is harder to apply the brakes over the drums.

PS----also note the crappy bearing cap on mine( its the original).....I guess by the looks of your missing one the one supplied in the kit wouldnt fit either ::)
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


694spdRT

Do they mention the bleeder placement in the installation instructions? Seems like a rather serious thing to omit if they did.
1968 Charger 383 auto
1969 Charger R/T 440 4 speed
1970 Charger 500 440 auto
1972 Challenger 318
1976 W200 Club Cab 4x4 400 auto 
1978 Ramcharger 360 auto
2001 Durango SLT 4.7L (daily driver)
2005 Ram 2500 4x4 Big Horn Cummins Diesel 6 speed
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Hemi

Silver R/T

Ive done brakes on some cars that have bleeder valves on top of the calipers, and those cars came from factory like that. I dont think EVERY car has to have bleeders on the top
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

Rolling_Thunder

hasving it on the top allows ALL air to be removed from the lines...   and no my caps supplied with the kit didnt fit either
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

Silver R/T

ya that does make sense, not sure why some car manufacturers would put them on BOTTOM
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

Just 6T9 CHGR

Quote from: 694spdRT on January 16, 2006, 09:56:18 PM
Do they mention the bleeder placement in the installation instructions? Seems like a rather serious thing to omit if they did.
Its in there.  I think he got his kit "in the trunk" when he bought the car.

I cant recall any car manufacturer that would have the bleeders on the bottom of the caliper....
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


69pistolgripRT

Exactly right. It was with the car when I bought- no instructions included.

The pedal feels great, but I never drove it with the drums so its hard for me to compare it. It does not feel too much worse than the power set-up on the Charger. Dust caps did not fit and my others look terrible. Of course, this is a driver so no big deal.

Chris- hard to tell from your pic. Are you're calipers on the front of the disc(towards the bumper) rather than behind the hub? Does it matter? When I redo these I want to make sure they are correct.
1969 RT 440 Pistol Grip 4-speed

Savannah, Ga

Just 6T9 CHGR

The calipers mount toward the front of the car.....that pic is the passenger side :thumbs:
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


is_it_EVER_done?

QuoteThe pedal feels great, but I never drove it with the drums so its hard for me to compare it. It does not feel too much worse than the power set-up on the Charger.

I'm glad you caught it before a potential catastrophe happend. The biggest danger comes from the brake line routing. Look at your pics and you can see that the brake line is allready near it's max extension. At full turn, up/down a driveway or other terrain that causes a great deal of suspension travel, and it will definitely tear. Visions of someones wife/family being in the car when this happens, gives me goose bumps.

As for the front or rear mounting of the calipers, for your car, keep them rear mounted, just change sides with the calipers. You will see that you now have plenty of hose flex, and the bleeders will be on the top. I assure you, you will have MUCH better brakes than before, no matter how much pedal you had. On a duel system, you can have a "false" pedal firmness since a well bled front or rear section will limit the pedal travel that you would have if they were separate systems with separate pedals.

6T9 -, Unless you bought your kit specifically to front mount your calipers, I would check the hose routing, length, and possible interference issues over very closely. I can't say for certain on the SSBC kits, but on stock, and other aftermarket kits, the hoses for front/rear mounting are different lengths. I have only mounted one SSBC kit over the years, but it was definitely intended to rear mount the calipers. In my opinion, there is NO good reason to front mount calipers. --- Check it over carefully, or call SSBC, just to be certain that you were supposed to front mount them.

General_01

Hey Chris, the caps that come with the kit will fit, it just takes awhile. It took me about 20 minutes just to get the passenger side on. I then put the drivers side on in about 5 minutes. Used a bigger hammer on that side. :D
1971 Dodge Charger Super Bee
496 stroker
4-speed

Rolling_Thunder

I can attest that the calipers are front mount....   
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

ChargerRob

Yep, I have the same kit as Chris and the caliper mounts to the front.  :thumbs:  Also, in case somebody wanted to know, I'm running 14" wheels with my SSBC Disk conversion and there is no clearance or rubbing problems. :coolgleamA:
Mighty Mean Mexican Mopar

69pistolgripRT

Would there be any problems just switching my calipers left to right? They would be on the rear of the rotor, but bleed valves would be on top and there would be plenty of clearance for hoses.
1969 RT 440 Pistol Grip 4-speed

Savannah, Ga

Rolling_Thunder

i suppose ?  If the brackets allow for that...     but why would you ?
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

69pistolgripRT

The brackets would be fine. Too lazy to unbolt the suspension to change brakets if I don't have to.

Why not?
1969 RT 440 Pistol Grip 4-speed

Savannah, Ga

is_it_EVER_done?

The real question would be WHY[/i] would you mount them to the front? Unless specifically instructed to do so due to supplied brake hose length/shape, or other "specific to front mounting" supplied part, all front mounting does is --

Cause the brake hose to be routed through, or around, the suspension components (which are always moving/changing and increases the chance of rubbing - pinch - interference).

Increase the likelyhood of sway bar interference, or in some cases, make using a sway bar impossible without modification.

Move several pounds of unsprung weight several inches forward, and outside of the wheel base, which is never good for performance. --

There is just no good reason to front mount calipers, unless your brake hose is designed for it. And even then, a hose designed for rear placement is allways available.




Just 6T9 CHGR

WHY is because thats how the kit was designed.

These kits are engineered to fit/work one way.   Moving brackets around is only asking for trouble IMHO.

Call SSBC to see if they recommend it.   I'm sure they will say no.   Better to be safe than lazy! :cheers:
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


will

Sorry to highjack, ChargerRob, I had to install spacers on mine to make 14" wheels work. I agree these are rear mount only. I think overall they are a good but would like to have a bit more information supplied. What I mean is, what to do when new pads are required. A part number would be nice. I did this without airtools, took about a day.

Charger_Fan

Maybe they make a couple different kits...a rear mount kit & a front mount kit? :ahum:
I can't imagine that you could 'accidentally' mount a kit designed for a rear mount on the front...and have it actually work.

The Aquamax...yes, this bike spent 2 nights underwater one weekend. (Not my doing), but it gained the name, and has since become pseudo-famous. :)