Daytona Project - Blue One - update

[Hemi Runner]

Around 6 or 7 psi and you start pushing the needle off the seat. You start to over power the weight of the float against it. A regulator will solve this problem. The "offroad" needle and seat assemblies will help combat the opposite problem caused by fuel slosh in the bowls. The ultimate combo is the offroad needle/seat assemblies with a regulator at about 5psi.

[Daytona Guy]

They did not come this way - and with these pumps - what gives. I'm sure these engineers had to figure this in right? Or let me put it this way, did the original HEMI's come with regulators? If not, did they have problems with too much pressure?

Dane

[Hemi Runner]

I was negative two years old when the first hemi hit the streets so, I have no idea if they had issues back then. I can tell you that they were not equiped with regulators from the factory. I'm unsure as to how the original vapor seperator affected the fuel pressure. Of the 20 or so that I've dyno'd with stock or edelbrock carbs, they've all had issues with the dyno's pumps putting out 7-8psi and now we routinely back the regs down to 5 on the dyno anytime it's not a holley carb. You don't have to listen to me. Hook it up and run it without a regulator and let your experience be your guide

[Daytona Guy]

Thank for that answer - it was just the way my brain works.  

[Daytona Guy]

Got some questions anyone ...

Can I bolt these new exhaust manifolds right up to these new aluminum heads without a gasket like the factory does?

Also, the ends where the pipes connect, they seem rough, do I need to sand that smooth for it not to flutter or leak?

Dane

[Daytona Guy]

[Hemi Runner]

Looking good. Looks stock LOL.... did you paint the distributor cap?

[Daytona Guy]

Looking good. Looks stock LOL.... did you paint the distributor cap?

You are good Yes, do not like red with an orange engine. Even my MSD box and coil is going body blue - or HEMI orange. Will be dropping this in next week. I will then see if I have to shave my intake down.

Dane

[Hemi Runner]

The chevy guys won't be able to tell it's not a stocker and most mopar guys will have to take a second look

[dads_69]

Hey, your Hemi isn't plugged in, how's it supposed to run? 
Great work, Happy Thanksgiving 

[Daytona Guy]

that's funny - should be plugging it in this week.

I took some pan pics with my iPhone -



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[Daytona Guy]

I am breathing easier – looks like everything will fit. The myth that the Schumacher motor mounts lifting the engine .5 to 1 inch is just that, a myth. It is exact stock height if not a little lower that a 440. The Modman intake is taller – but the mods I made to the air cleaner base – and if need be – the hood reinforcement removal over the carbs, will make this a good for show.

Now I get to put it all together one piece at a time.

Will post picks as I go...

Dane

[1970Moparmann]

Sweet!!!  Looking good.

[Daytona Guy]

Not sure you need this much current - or how it makes it from 12volts - but hey. Went to the blue to keep things subtle. When the car the engine are already loud - you only need to be subtle. Bright Red - just too much. I'm sure MSD may not like me 

Dane

[Hemi Runner]

Just make sure to lose that ballast resistor

[Daytona Guy]

I have no idea what I am doing yet because I have always used stock stuff. Does it use 12v and should I wire it stright across or does it not use that wiring at all?

Dane

[Hemi Runner]

The "start" and "run" switched 12v wires coming from the ignition switch and going to the ballast resistor just get joined and run to the small red wire on the MSD ignition. You can bypass the ballast resistor while still leaving it in place by removing the resistor guts and jumping it by soldering in a brass pin to connect the two terminals and make it "look factory" while delivering a full 12v to the ignition box. The heavy red wire goes directly to battery positive and the heavy black wire goes directly to battery negative. These two connections are critical on an MSD to eliminate issues. You can easily wire these ignitions up with hidden wiring and still keep the factory wiring intact but unused to give the stock look.

[Daytona Guy]

Thank you - Very helpful

I'm in big trouble. I thought I had a complete dash – so when I pulled my box out this is all I found. For the life of me I can't figure out what I had done, of if I never had a complete dash. Not sure all that I need but I need to put it out there to see if anyone may have the parts needed for me to complete my dash. I will post this under a different heading hopefully I can get someone's attention.

Dane

[JB400]

Looks like you need the base that holds it all together and the silicon board.  Have you checked all your boxes?

[Daytona Guy]

Looks like you need the base that holds it all together and the silicon board.  Have you checked all your boxes?

Yep, I think my recollection was wrong. I'm looking all over to find something now. I think I have most of the switches - that I really don't use - but the dash lights and the dimmer.

Dane

[JB400]

Did you ship your guages out to get the faces done?  If you did, my guess would be that you done some playing when you got them back.  After you admired your new stuff, I bet you left the other parts in the original box you had them in, but put these parts in the box with the guages.

[Daytona Guy]

No such luck - I'm on ebag and finding somethings - but I hate using ebag - I use someone else to buy my stuff from them.

Dane

[JB400]

I think the white base will be your problem.  Yearone has the silicon board for $125.  That might be the way to go to make sure you have a good electrical connection.  I haven't seen the base reproduced yet.  Best of luck.  Maybe, you'll find it when you aren't looking for it.

[Daytona Guy]

Also, looking for the bulkhead - outer headlight harness connector - have the wires - just need the connector.

Dane

[Daytona Guy]

I think the white base will be your problem.  Yearone has the silicon board for $125.  That might be the way to go to make sure you have a good electrical connection.  I haven't seen the base reproduced yet.  Best of luck.  Maybe, you'll find it when you aren't looking for it.

So true - At this point the base is the missing part that will hold me back - the rest i can get. there is a 68 complete - for 220.00 on ebag. The funny part is - I have 3 40 year old clocks that all work - go figgure - Will be calling in the morn.

Dane