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69 Charger body damage

Started by XP29H9, April 14, 2011, 10:45:05 PM

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XP29H9

Ok, so here's what we're workin' with.  These pictures are of the problem areas on my Charger that's been sitting outside in the back yard since 95 and in someone else's back yard since 1988.  I don't know if the body pieces that have corners and bottoms rusted out of them will have to be completely replaced or not.  One quarter is pretty bad and the rear floor pans have holes through them along with the trunk pan.  And the typical window/sail panel rot, but I have seen it worse. Again, I don't know how much new metal that's going to take.

This is where I'm at though as far as known body issues.  There's no telling what I'm going to find as time goes on.  Hopefully not tooooo many more problems though!

So here's the pictures.  Tell me what your thinkin!  please  :angel:


XP29H9

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XP29H9

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XP29H9

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XP29H9

Floor and trunk rot

#1 - driver side rear floor panel.

#2 - rear of driver side rear floor panel

#3 - driver side trunk rot near quarter

#4 - passenger side trunk rot

greenpigs

Get an another door & the fender you should be able to fix but your going to need too pull it off.

Everything else needs cut out and replaced. Not sure where you should start but since the gas tank needs dropped the trunk floor is as good a place as any to start.
1969 Charger RT


Living Chevy free

XP29H9

Can the inner part of the door be salvaged or will it need to be a whole new door with my panel, glass, and components on it?  I'm really wanting to get the Charger in somewhere that's covered for me to work on it before I start cutting on it though.  I think I'm going to be needing to know a really good welder in the near future lol.


Here's a picture of the drivers side rear quarter as it was before I started on it.  Untouched. :icon_smile_blackeye:

Daytona R/T SE

1. Get that car inside, where it can be kept dry and safe for years and years while you perform the Resurrection on it.

2. Sell your soul to the Devil to get the huge amount of money it's going to take to bring this one back from the dead.

3. Reskin the entire car. You might be able to save an original panel or two, but in the long run, just buy the new stuff:   http://www.autometaldirect.com/

4. NEVER cut an old panel off until you have the new panel in hand.

5. Be prepared for rotted frame rails, torsion bar crossmembers, and other hidden treats.

6. Brace yourself for years of late nights out slaving away alone in the garage, empty pockets, lost girlfriends, opportunities in life passing you by, pissed off neighbors, male pattern baldness, alcoholism, and the spontaneous obesity that goes along with a project of this magnitude...

...Being found nude, under the car, in the fetal position, rocking back and forth violently while sobbing uncontrollably, muttering "car evil" "car evil" "car evil" under your breath is not unheard of.

Welcome aboard...

440

 :hah:
Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on April 14, 2011, 11:32:40 PM
...Being found nude, under the car, in the fetal position, rocking back and forth violently while sobbing uncontrollably, muttering "car evil" "car evil" "car evil" under your breath is not unheard of.

Oh wait.... I've done that before  :leaving:

resq302

AMD makes a lot of nice repro sheet metal for our cars.  You should be able to just replace the outer skin of the door and save the inner frame.  Main thing is to take your time and do it right.  There are a bunch of very knowledgeable people on here who have replaced panels themselves.  Me, personally, I'll bring my car to someone to do that!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

SFRT

it will cost you 60-80 grand and take a couple of  years to make it 'really nice to perfect' .

if your lucky.
Always Drive Responsibly



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Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on April 14, 2011, 11:32:40 PM
1. Get that car inside, where it can be kept dry and safe for years and years while you perform the Resurrection on it.

2. Sell your soul to the Devil to get the huge amount of money it's going to take to bring this one back from the dead.

3. Reskin the entire car. You might be able to save an original panel or two, but in the long run, just buy the new stuff:   http://www.autometaldirect.com/

4. NEVER cut an old panel off until you have the new panel in hand.

5. Be prepared for rotted frame rails, torsion bar crossmembers, and other hidden treats.

6. Brace yourself for years of late nights out slaving away alone in the garage, empty pockets, lost girlfriends, opportunities in life passing you by, pissed off neighbors, male pattern baldness, alcoholism, and the spontaneous obesity that goes along with a project of this magnitude...

...Being found nude, under the car, in the fetal position, rocking back and forth violently while sobbing uncontrollably, muttering "car evil" "car evil" "car evil" under your breath is not unheard of.

Welcome aboard...

yep all true  to a lesser or greater extent  :icon_smile_blackeye: :yesnod:


first job  is number one  :yesnod: then strip the car of everything & keep  all the parts & stuff out & away from the body , last thing you want to worry about is a mig splatter going in a box of parts &  setting it on fire , or damaging rare to find parts , only stuff you want in there with you is tools to do body work etc etc & parts other than sheet metal like body bumpers & door, deck lid latches etc etc
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

bill440rt

Daytona RT/SE nailed it on the head.  :yesnod:


If you've NEVER done bodywork before, that's not the car to start experimenting on. Get an AMD catalog. Most sheetmetal parts that you'll ever need will be in there. From the pictures you've posted, you're gonna need both 1/4's, rear body panel, lower valence & corners, trunk floor, trunk floor extentions, and at least one inner & outer wheelhouse. Might be able to save the roof. You'll spend more time in labor trying to save the crumpled fender than replacing it, it's double-walled in the front part of the fender, hard fix. Bumpers are available repro, easy phone call. Grille looks like it can be repaired & saved.

Get a catalog, & start pricing out what you need. Find a REPUTABLE shop in your area, research several. You may have to travel to find the right one willing to take on a project of that magnitude AND that knows what they're doing. Show them the catalog & parts price list you came up with to assist them in giving you an estimate, most modern shops probably don't know where to find parts for these cars.

Then, grit your teeth & bear it, it's gonna be a long haul with lotsa money spent.
Good luck!
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

twodko

You must embrace and become one with AMD Grasshopper.
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

chargerhunter

About 9K in all panels. That's what my buddy spent and replaced EVERYTHING
68 Charger R/T clone 440/4spd
converted to '69 General Lee

68 Charger 383/727

ChgrSteve67

I would give CornDog a ring and see when he can fit you in.

69 OUR/TEA

What Bill440rt said,and more.I'd be taking off the roof skin to.Be preparred to spend lots of money,time and aggravation.Now,is it worth it????Seen alot of peoples "gotta save it" intentions lately,and just do the math on the venture you would start,and be positive it is what you want to do,and have strong dedication to it.Good luck!

hemi-hampton

Read the Ridelikehell thread are you scared & figure your about in for the same treatment. Are you up to it? LEON.

elitecustombody

You'd have to be very seriously dedicated to take on a project of this magnitude ,lots of patience and good chunk of change. Invest in a solid carport,close it up and get to work. If you need a great deal on AMD parts, just send me email,I'll hook you up :cheers:


AMD-Auto Metal Direct  Distributor, email me for all your shetmetal needs

Stefan

XP29H9

Yeah ya'll are pretty much right.  I'm sure I'm not about to drop $100K on getting this charger back to original.  I'm only 22 and can barely afford the spray paint I used on the wheels!  I'd be happy to just get the motor back running and see if I can make it mechanically sound.  I'd drive it the way it is if it had brakes and would start.  Anything more than what's already done to it is progress to me, no matter what it is.  To consider cutting the roof off and re-skinning it right now is, for me, a little too much for the time being.  I'm just happy doing things like sanding and spray painting my wheels for now.  Thanks for letting me know that doing a full-on body restoration on a classic car is going to cost a lot of money, I appreciate it.  I sure am glad to have some new contacts on 69 charger stuff now though.  Your knowledge and access to parts/suppliers is much appreciated and will be very useful!

     
:icon_smile_big:

resq302

Just to give you a heads up, the car you see to the left took me about 6-8 years to get it pretty much done to my liking and that was with a body that did not need really anything externally on it done.  You could do what I did.  One year pic something like the engine and get that done.  Following year, redo the trans or interior.  Do one project at a time and you will be pleased with the progress.  Rome wasn't built in a day (granted our cars were but that was also an assembly line) so take your time and learn and get to know your car.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

terrible one

Hey man, I've been reading your threads, looks like we are definitely in a similar situation both age and budget-wise. I came here at age 15 knowing nothing about these cars and everyone here guided me through every step and taught me 95% of what I know about Chargers. These guys are absolutely right about the restoration costs, especially if you aren't doing the metalwork yourself. I just have to say don't let the fact that you can't restore it right now discourage you. Everyone here will agree (and has already said) that sitting out is the worst thing for your '69. What you've done already is an improvement. If the structural parts of the unibody are sound and you have solid rails, there's no reason why you can't get it running and on the road, and do what you can when money allows. My car is in very similar shape body-wise and I didn't do anything with it but grind some of the bondo off and spray-paint it all one color. I then focused on the drivetrain, suspension, wiring, plumbing . . . basically everything BUT the body and after a few years and $13k, car included, I have a reliable driver that I can enjoy, slowly improve, and don't have to worry about dings, dents, and scratches. And I started with a very incomplete car, no drivetrain either.

I say you take your focus off of the sheetmetal (aside from preventing further rust, of course) and start with bolting on that carburetor and getting it to start, then take small steps toward making it roadworthy again from there. Engine running, then go through the brakes, then start on electrical and get everything working, etc. etc. As you can tell you've got a huge community here to help you every step of the way.

TX9H6E4CUDA

I agree with all the posters above. Right now get it running and driving and have fun with it. I would get a set of old mags, put back the pieces you already have taken off (even if they are damaged) apply a painted on bumble bee stripe on the back ( try make it look patena looking) find some beat up R/T badges and have fun with it. That is the best because you don't have to worry about it getting damaged or dinged. What part of the world are you from? I have a set of old school super wide cragers that have some rust that would look perfect on that car. Trust me you can do this car so it will turn heads because it will looks like a street suvivor with all of its battle scars.
For the best powder coating talk to Larry at JIT Powder Coating. Absolutely amazing service, awesome quality,amazing attention to detail. Give Larry a call at 651-463-4664
Thanks again Larry

Ants

Hay one day at a time and one thing at a time. I got my first 69 when i was 15 and the only reason i got my first job was to start restoring it.

I'll help you get started, I got a set of AMD rear frame rails, trunk brace, rear crossmember.  I'll donate them to your cause All you have to do is pick them up. :2thumbs:
pm me if you need them.

XP29H9

Thanks for the encouragement terrible one!  That sounds more-so along the lines of where I'm wanting to go with this!  I'll definitely post some updated pics once I get the carb back on!

TX9H6E4CUDA - I'm in Nashville, Tennessee USA.  Where abouts are you at?  Those wheels sound like they'd be pretty cool!  They sound like the kind of look I'm wanting to go for too!

Ants - One day at a time, one thing at a time for sure.  Just keeping myself occupied and trying not to move too fast.  I really appreciate your generosity!!  I think my frame rails are fine from the looks of it.  I'll post some pictures and you can let me know what you think.  That trunk brace and rear cross member sound like something I might need though!  Just not quite sure what exactly they look like.  I'll also post a pic of the inside of my trunk and we can decide if those pieces are rusted out or not.  Thanks for the help though!  It's much appreciated!!