Steering column wiring harness

[BananaDan]

Houston, I have a problem.  I was removing my dash harness tonight in prep for replacing it, and what a disaster it was.  I'm shocked this car ran and didn't burst into flames.  My issue is with the harness coming out of the top of the column that is encased in a vinyl tube (the ingnition switch harness I guess?).  I know it is not the key light yellow wire, or the blinker switch harness/plug.  Many of the wires that should terminate into the white plug had been cut and spliced into the dash harness.

Can I replace this harness that is in the steering column?  If so, who makes new ones, and how do I do it?  I imagine I am looking at removing the entire column and taking it apart to do this surgery?  Do I need to replace the ignition key switch and end up with new keys?

Thanks,
Dan

[BananaDan]

It looks like Mopar Performance makes these.  Should I just get one of these?

https://monicattichrysler.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=3336#

Where do those two loose wires that aren't terminated into the white plug go?  I assumed everything should terminate into the white plug?  See the picture on the link above.

Dan

[Nacho-RT74]

ok, through the years they began in generic replacement for all bodies, instead set a very diff list of ign switches for each body. Mids 70s A Bodies got the red and black wires in to spades plugs and longer wires, so this replacements are longer and out of the white plug to fit on them the spades terminals and the T plug ( included on package ) to fit on these models. Requires cut the terminal it has crimped and attach the included extras

If will be set on a B, E or C body, they are already done with the bullet kind terminal and just need to insert into the white plug. Wires will remain with a loop because longer, but not a big deal

You can get that one OR simply OEM pieces made by Valley Forge, Napa, Standard or whichever made it. Only diff will be actually not Mopar PN on it.

they run from $40 up to $120 or even more if you want correct date, PN, and boxed NOS piece

No need to replace cilinder or key, just ign with harness attached

Red tiny wires are for the buzzer. Will require get new terminals since thats not part of the ign switch harness assembly, and will require to attach on your new piece.

You can also try to get new bullet kind terminals and replace the ign switch damaged ends, crimp the newterminals on wire and DONE... the white plug MAYBE it is still reuseable. I can't see actually a BIG damage on the plug to not reuse it.

Its a shame A PERFECT IGN SWITCH AND HARNESS can't be "fixed" or restored with all new look just because the white plug is not available new replacement.

mostly sure the ign switch itself is still plenty of getting good service for years.

[Nacho-RT74]

ACTUALLY on a closer view, I THING this switch its already a replacement part, fit some years ago.

THE ORIGINAL factory switches never got ( Or at least I never have seen ) the tiny black wire there, Just the 5 thick wires, the 2 small ones fro the buzzer, and one empty cavity left JUST FOR COLUMN SHIFTER LIGHT CARS AND MUST BE ORANGE AND NOT PART OF THE IGN SWITCH ASSEMBLY, but an added wire getting the gear indicator bulb. You will notice the underdash harness has this location filled with an orange wire what on floor shifter cars won't get anywhere just stoping at the plug

I have allways wondered about why that tiny black wire on replacement ign switches. maybe an accesories extra source for something ? dunno really, never have tested when should be energized this.

here you'll find a nice guidance to knwo how to replace it. Not every step needed but you'll find out with this

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/mopp_0308_mopar_steering_column_rebuild/index.html

[BananaDan]

I found it even cheaper at RockAuto but there are three available parts from different manufacturers.  Any advice if one of these is a better manufacturer over the other?  I don't want to nickel/dime this piece for the $10-$15 difference between the three.

Also, I have a lead on an NOS switch for $85.  Considering the common frequency of these frying in the past, should I avoid the NOS switch, or grab it at that price?

Dan

[BananaDan]

Bueller?  Anyone out there that can advise me which way to go?  NOS or one of the OEM's (which is better quality if there is a difference?)  I'd like to order something before the day is out if possible.

Thanks!

Dan

[Troy]

I'm guessing here since I am just getting familiar with 70 model issues...

that looks like the ignition switch harness. Yes, it's attached to the ignition switch. The original harness and some of the reproductions (old stock?) have wires that are positioned flat against each other. Some other "replacement" harnesses (and maybe reproduction?) have a plastic sheath with the wires in a bundle. It looks like that's what you have now. Some of these have an additional 2 wires that do not go into the white connector. I think these were used on trucks in later years so those wires wouldn't be connected on a 70 model car. The originals in my Challengers only have 6 wires (?) - all going into the connector. I haven't found the best place to buy them yet but I was told they're still available from the dealer (not sure which configuration though and your link to Monicatti doesn't work). I can guarantee the Rock Auto stuff is generic. That "ORIGINAL ENGINE MANAGEMENT Part # IS101" looks the closest. The price is about half of what I've seen at other vendors too.

I guess it comes down to: do you want it to "work" or be exactly correct? Correct will probably require you to find an NOS one - but then you still have to deal with 40 year old wires/connectors.

Troy

[BananaDan]

Thanks, that's the one I ordered.  We'll see how it goes.

Dan

[GreenMachine]

   Here's my BWD switch I ordered for my '70 from O'reilley's. P/N CS82. The big red and black loose wires plug in to the connector according to the instructions. There's nothing wrong with my old one, but since I'm restoring my car and they're only $28.00, I'll get one just to have if I decide to use it. Quality seems good, switch is nice and tight. But the new harness is missing the two small red wires on the end, I'm not sure what they're for though.

[Nacho-RT74]

two small reds are key buzzer switch, and they don't come with ign switch... they plug in after everything is in place:



about brands... NORMALLY I was choosen Standard, but after get the piece of shit I got when I bough an Standard NSS switch, had to get a SPARTAN ( Go figure )

BTW, still try to figure whats the tiny black wire function, since is not used on early to mids 70s cars ( at least B bodies ), and that cavity is used for gear indicator light on column shifters

[BananaDan]

Ok.  I removed the top section of the column today, 3 screws and 2 that hold in the key light cylinder and then the C-shaped clamp thing that snaps around the steering shaft (don't know what it's called).  I can now see the ignition switch I have to replace, but there is a huge multi-toothed sprocket in the way and it seems to be attached to the shaft (steering lock mechanism I assume).  How do I get to the ignition switch to replace it?  Do I have to pull the entire steering shaft out (disconnect it from the steering box)?

Dan

[Nacho-RT74]

did you check the link I gave you ?

the locking wheel mechanism can be removed with shaft/column in car, just need to make the thoothed wheel pin removal gently. Then will be able to take appart the wheel

remove the ign switch and harness assembly can be a little tricky too, due the size of the conector and the small room all along the column to go through but doable.

and advice will be attach a wire or cord on old plug before remove to be able to use that as guide to the new plug.

[BananaDan]

Yes, sorry Nacho, I'm losing it.   

I was in my car for 3-4 hours today smelling POR-15 fumes.

Dan

[b5blue]

  BWD= Borg Warner Division, they bought out "Standard" and hence much of NAPA's line that was made by Standard. Subbed much out to overseas and quality suffered in things like ECU's and such. I was going to recommend getting your part local as Auto Zone and Advance have great warranty coverage. I bought a new "Standard" one on eBay and it quit turning the engine over after 2 months of daily driving. My BWD from Advance is working fine so far.   

[BananaDan]

I ended up buying this one.

ORIGINAL ENGINE MANAGEMENT   IS101

[b5blue]

Keep the old one for a "back up" if needed, you can just plug it in and bypass the column. My "old" new one still works, it just won't crank the engine when installed. The tolerances must be out of spec. but you get what I mean.  (I had to rig a "start" switch out of my wiper washer button!  )

[nascarxx29]

 Re: 70 Charger Dash Harness Connectors
« Reply #2 on: March 12, 2011, 10:56:03 PM » Quote Modify  

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Known trouble area harness to column connection  .Lots of cars Ive done wiring on melted at that connector  

Thats a common trouble area at the column connection .I would check out the ammeter / bulkhead connection and connections on backside of fusebox they need to be clean and tight.The ammeter is insulated by a thin black cardboard.If amp gauge contacts cluster frame melt down and fusible link blows . Ive cut vacuum hose or plastic tubing and made paper thin washers to go over the ammeter studs to prevent gauge posts.From shorting to cluster housing

[Nacho-RT74]

ammeter isolator is now being repop... somewhere