Rebuild cost for a 340

[64dartgt]

I have a 340 at the machine shop.  It has newly done heads, but must be disassembled, bored and reassembled.  Assuming the guy has to do everything but the heads what is a ball park for a stock or slightly better than stock (say 300 hp) rebuild?  A master kit seems to be about $600.  I bought the engine, which was 'rebuilt' but just reringed, for $1000.  I'd like to think I can get it straightened out for less than another $3K, but am I dreaming?  At some point I will just say F-it an buy a $360 crate engine if it is more, although there isn't much savings in buying a short block vs. a long block these days.

Thanks in advance.  I have never had a motor done before, but the guy does all my buddies motor work and he drag races and is a mechanic.

[gtx6970]

If you can do all the assy yourself, you MIGHT be able to do nice rebuild in the $2000 range

quality parts and even more so quality machine work is also expensive

I did a 340 maybe 3 years ago.

parts, machine work, and labor was right at $4000

[64dartgt]

As I said, the heads are done.  I just hope it is possible to get the rest done (cylinders and crank) with parts and assembly for another $3K max as I have $1K into the engine with the new heads, new oil pump, new water pump, etc...including the master kit.  I was just looking for some input, because I am thinking that, rather than have my car tied up until June, if he quotes more than that I will just by a crate 360 NOW and then sell the 340 as a core or have him do it at leisure for my 64 Dart.

[471_Magnum]

You should be able to go through the short block for less than three grand... well less than the price of a crate engine.

Something to consider... good stroker kits can be had for about $1200. Add in another 700-800 for machine work & balancing and you've got a stroker short block for about two grand. That assumes you put it together yourself. If you're needing new pistons anyway, building a stroker will only cost you another 500 bucks or so.

Spend $100 on a 360 core and you can start from scratch and minimize your downtime.

What's the current bore on the block? I'd be somewhat hesitant to invest much in that block if it's already 30 over and needs to go another 30.

[64dartgt]

That's part of the issue.  The guy is so flat out he has said that won't even look at it until May, then he will just do it.  That is what he said when I asked about whether or not I could order parts for it in order to have them on hand / save down time.  If it turns out the thing is junk (one cylinder is sleeved already) then I lose a lot of time. 

[471_Magnum]

I'd find another block the get the machine work done. (Challenge is finding a reasonably priced std bore 340 block. That's why going with a much cheaper and more plentiful 360 block with stroker kit has it's appeal.) Then based on the condition of the current internals, your performance aspirations, and your budget, decide where to go from there.

You might want to read this thread to see where I'm coming from:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,76292.0/all.html

[64dartgt]

The cost of a block is the fun part.  I have seen just a block go for $800 on ebay.  That is why I took a flyer on this one as I figured there were so many new parts on it, including redone heads, that I would at least break even if it needed to be bored.  I'm not worried about the sleeve from an integrity perspective.  Most engines on the market are sleeved now.  I am more concerned that since it has a sleeve it may be 0.030 over already.  Searching around indicates up to 0.060 may be okay, so if I am at 0.030 and the machinist thinks it is okay I will go higher.  Compression will be about 9.5:1 with a goal of about 300 hp.  I bought a rear end with 4.11's in it, but may switch to 3.23's as I plan to do some highway driving and the 4.11's may be a bit much for an hour each way.  If the block is junk I may just get a crate motor or rebuild the original 318 that is in it (bad bearing).

[471_Magnum]

I just ordered all the parts for my 360 stroker short block. With SCAT cast crank, I-beam rods, and forged SRP pistons, I've got $1500 in it. I'll have another $800 in machine work including balancing. Add in some odds & ends, I be sitting right at $2500 invested.

[no318]

I did one for a customer last spring and it ended up @ +/-$3000 Parts, machine work, labor, total. Nothing exotic, but nice, quality stuff, good street motor.

[64dartgt]

I got a quote for a rebuild of my 318 of $4K, but the outfit rebuilds vintage engines and is high end.  I can't afford to live in the town there shop is in!

[tricky lugnuts]

Had a 340 done in northern Ohio in 2005-2006, block and heads. Cost ran about $2,200 total and they gave me back an assembled short block punched forty over with the oil pan and timing cover installed and two fresh heads with new gaskets to bolt on myself.

Same machine shop in February 2011?

It wants close to $4,000 to build and assemble a 440 short block, complete with new cam and lifters and timing chain, new intermediate shaft and bushing installed, and new pushrods and rocker arms . . . For essentially a short block with the oil pan and timing cover on and the aluminum heads I bought and the valve train installed, with both heads and valve train inspected.

I said "ouch." But really it depends on how far you want or need to take it.

Can you build a 340 for $3,000 - I'd say yes, quite easily. Can you do it for less than that? Possibly. How much less depends on 1. how much of the work you want to do on your own, and 2. how much work your engine "needs."

The "needs" can be tough for each person and shop to figure out individually, but I know I wouldn't want to put money, let alone $1,500 or $2,500 in an engine, only to cut corners that could or would come back to haunt me.

That $4,000 price for a 440 build includes $475 for tear down and reassembly and shop supplies that I guess I could do on my own, to save a little money. So it's really a $3,525 total excluding those costs, assuming I want to just have the machine work and cleaning done and then put it all together myself in the garage.

That price also includes machine work, supposedly close to $1,500 worth: clean engine inside and out and magnaflux, rebore eight cylinders, resurface block, install cam bearings and cam, grind crankshaft, recondition eight rods, fit pins and align rods, align hone main bearings and balance the rotating assembly.

Then there's always the question of parts, and how many you want or "need" to buy and what kind. (Is your damper junk; are your rods and crank OK; forged, cast or hyper pistons, etc.) And frankly, then there's tax.