Critique this 68 Charger

[NHCharger]

Looked at a 68 today. Guy has owned it for 10 years. He bought it from the original owners son and had plans for a daily summertime driver.  He did the body work himself, painted it, then lost interest and parked it in his in-laws carport three years ago.

He replaced the quarters, trunk floor and extensions, DS floor pan. Passenger side frame rail under trunk replaced at some point. New bumpers, exhaust, gas tank and lines, brakes, brake lines, booster, new KYB shocks, keystone mags, new tires, new wheel well lip molding, new interior panels and seat covers. Engine just rebuilt (383 HP). Also painted it himself with PPG Concept urethane paint, no clear coat. Says the engine is #s matching. Couldn't find a number on the engine. Fender tag partial rusted so I couldn't read too much. It is a 383 4bbl. HP, 727A, 8 3/4". 3.23SG, build date looks like 2/22/68. Casting #s on engine 2468130.

Since he lost interest the car isn't finished. The grille is in perfect condition, just needs paint. Engine bay is original except for all the overspray. New carpet still in the box so I got a good look at the floor pans, all in good shape. Original dash pad not cracked, gauges work, cluster could use some freshening up.

The bad is: Owner did the body work and I have no idea of his skill level. Paint seemed real thick. Owner told me he took the entire car down to bare metal but has no pics of the work. Can see some fudge around the rear window (big surprise). Edge of the trunk lid seems to be separating on the passenger side. On the DS door lower front there is already some rust bubbles. This car is sitting on a concrete slab with a cover over it in a carport, it is partial exposed to the weather, we had to brush the snow off it to remove the cover. New gas cap cover already flaking (year one). Where the frame meets the crossmember for the torsion bars there is a little rot. I jacked the car and took a hammer to the frame, seemed pretty solid. Fresh coat of undercoating which is standard practice up here for someone just building a daily/weekend driver. Taillights are pitted/weathered.

As I mentioned he lost interest, he was buying all his stuff from Y.O. so I can't imagine what he has into this car.

I've included some pics, so tell me what you think.

[NHCharger]

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[tan top]

never like picking holes in anyones work , but unless you can get the car really, really cheap & then plan on stripping the car to see whats what  & cutting off the quarters , then starting again  , just by looking there is a good few pounds of bondo on each panel , can even see what looks to be rust bubbles  already on the passanger rear quarter near the bottom where it meets the rocker    would give it a miss & look for another  

[maxwellwedge]

10k   - Very rusty car that half of was replaced (badly) with cheap repop metal. Better to find a rust free car for double or triple - You would be miles ahead.

[tan top]

10k   - Very rusty car that half of was replaced (badly) with cheap repop metal. Better to find a rust free car for double or triple - You would be miles ahead.

[rick.d]

looks like the rear valance corners have been filled in, and i also would be leary of the bodywork since it is painted white, and it is easier to hide imperfections. Does he have the buildsheet or any other paperwork? What is known about the history of the car and who built the engine?
Also, how much of the "restoration " would you need to do over? Its great that it has new floors, ect but if they need to be redone properly is that really a selling point?

[TylerCharger69]

Judging by the pics....looks like a bondo bucket to me

[squeakfinder]

    I'm curious as to how the quarter skins were attached. I don't see any sign of welding. Maybee he used adhesive.

[Blakcharger440]

I can see that alot of filler was used on that car where there shouldnt have been.

Rear 1/4 panel to valance corner seams filled
Dutchman panel to sail panel seams filled
Looks like somebody hacked on the rear side window trim area as that should not look like that from factory.
The rear quarters were welded in towards the top area of the remaining factory quarter.
Body lines dont look good and sharp on rear quarter or the front fenders at least from what I can tell from the pics.

That is just what I can see in the pics. Most likely alot more filler hiding under all that paint also.

How much is he asking?

[squeakfinder]

  OK now I can see the weld seem. Back when it was done full quarters probaby were not available.

[472 R/T SE]

I've read you're looking for a '68.   If it were me I'd buy one of those little bondo depth checker's.

When I look at cars I always take at least a refrigerator magnet to it.  The first place I look is the trunk.  You can tell alot from just looking in there.

You'd have to get the white car really cheap.  I thought I remembered you saying you wanted a Bullit clone so how about a car that needs quarters & paint?  Although up there in the NE getting one that only needs that will be tough.

[NHCharger]

never like picking holes in anyones work ,

No, I want people to pick to see if I was being over cautious. As soon as I saw the corners of the rear valence mudded in i was leery of the quality of the body work.

The original color was white,so i don't think he painted it white to hide anything.

Claims he has the build sheet. Local garage built the engine. Didn't bring any pics or documents to support what he was saying.

I usually take a little magnet with me but forgot it today. These are the typical cars you find in New England.

He's asking 16k or best offer. I offered him 10k back in October without looking at the car and he turned it down.

My Dad called when I got home to ask what I thought of the car. I replied I pretty sure it's a "perfumed pig". He got a good laugh once I explained what that meant.

[69 OUR/TEA]

Run,Forest,run!!!!!! Would'nt buy for half of what you offered!!!!!

[NHCharger]

Hey, i could have bought this gem last October for 4k. Needs everything, real rust bucket. The owner told me it was not the original engine, it was a 383, I didn't bother to verify. Current owner tells me that the previous owner told him it was #s matching but doesn't know how to verify and doesn't care. This is what we have to choose from up here in the rust belt.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-Charger-RT-69-70-/170590489027?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item27b7fc49c3

[greenpigs]

The door gap on the pass side looks funky. I would pass on this car & look out west for a more rust free body, sure everyone does that but there is a reason why. Paying 2K? for transport would still be cheaper than replacing half the sheetmetal that most midwest Chargers will need.

[bakerhillpins]

Not much to add that the others haven't already noted.

The rear quarter skins and splitting deck lid are the worst things to me and I bet taking it to metal meant that he just sanded it down. Three years and the paint is already compromised? 

On the quarter skins - maybe they were tacked welded to the top of the old fender rather than bonded and then lots of bondo?

[Richard Cranium]

Run,Forest,run!!!!!! Would'nt buy for half of what you offered!!!!!

Couldn't have said it better.

[SFRT]

its a bondo buggy dont buy it.

[Troy]

I can't stand the lay-the-new-quarter-on-top-of-the-old-and-only-weld-the-outside-so-the-overlap-sucks-up-water-and-rusts-from-the-inside-out approach. I have no body work skills at all and I'd be ashamed if that's the best I could come up with. Most of that car will have to come back apart unless you just want a beater to have fun in. That's how I usually end up with completely disassembled projects instead of finished cars. I hate to guess on price since I never manage to get it right. However, $16k is dreaming.

Troy

[Rolling_Thunder]

RUN!!!!