727 behind 383, 400, 440---any differences?

[Chatt69chgr]

 For a given model year, is there any difference between a 727 used behind a 383, 400, or 440? 

[oldcarnut]

I'd kinda like to expand his question to also any differences between models as far as internals same year or otherwise if you don't mind me piggy backing on it?

[Nacho-RT74]

I don't think, beside the converter

[RD]

yes and no.. depending up the year.. each had differences.. so numerous to account for.. but..

to make it simple...

383HP, 400HP and 440HP engines, most often than not, had the same style of 727... 4 front planetary, 4 clutch discs in each drum, higher ratio intermediate band lever (some case 4 gear rear planetary), different governor for different shift points, and a different converter (based on application of course).

383 2bbl, 400 2bbl and 440 4bbl (non-hp; not sure they ever had a 2bbl 440) would have 3 or 4 clutch discs based upon application (i.e. truck or car), lower ratio shift lever for easier transition shifts, 3 front and rear planetary (though some trucks may have a 4 gear front planetary), lower rpm governor, and a lower rpm converter.

based upon the years though.. the valve body differs a lot in regards to fluid passage routing and size, components: later models incorporated shift enhancements such as the 3-2 downshift limit valve (1971 & up), front servo design (1971 & up), larger piston spring (aka bellville) (1971 & up); some were lockup's (think 1978), modulated reverse line pressure (again think 1978).

hope this helps, or just confuses the heck out of you   but hey.. u asked for it! 

[oldcarnut]

Thanks for all of that info. .  I have several here at the house and was going to get one of them gone through before putting back in the RR.  Sounds like I should just stick with the 70 RR piece and get rid of the c body and the other 69 Bee and R/T units. Much appreciated

[RD]

Thanks for all of that info. .  I have several here at the house and was going to get one of them gone through before putting back in the RR.  Sounds like I should just stick with the 70 RR piece and get rid of the c body and the other 69 Bee and R/T units. Much appreciated

if you are getting rid of some.. pm me with prices and location

[John_Kunkel]

"It all depends..." sums it up, since most of these units are around 40 years old and have been opened up a couple of times you'll never know what's inside until you disassemble them.

Many transmission shops (and individuals too) will replace damaged hard parts with whatever's available.

[Chatt69chgr]

Hmmmm!  A lot more complicated than I thought.  I guess you could go through one and replace everything with better and higher performance pieces.  Not sure what one does about the valve body.  But almost seems like by the time you did that, you might as well buy one rebuilt from someone like TCI.  I assume they have some kind of guarantee.  I wanted to know since I had a couple of cores laying around that I thought might be used for a future project.  But as picky as I am, I would probably be better off just buying one as stated above when the time came.

I did take the numbers off the two that I have:

One was PK2801543K   2405   7292.   

The other one was 3681854    4396   0001   and had two XX's with a circle around them.

[RD]

Hmmmm!  A lot more complicated than I thought.  I guess you could go through one and replace everything with better and higher performance pieces.  Not sure what one does about the valve body.  But almost seems like by the time you did that, you might as well buy one rebuilt from someone like TCI.  I assume they have some kind of guarantee.  I wanted to know since I had a couple of cores laying around that I thought might be used for a future project.  But as picky as I am, I would probably be better off just buying one as stated above when the time came.

I did take the numbers off the two that I have:

One was PK2801543K   2405   7292.   

The other one was 3681854    4396   0001   and had two XX's with a circle around them.

before you buy a tci.. click here:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,71503.0.html

[oldcarnut]

Thanks for all of that info. .  I have several here at the house and was going to get one of them gone through before putting back in the RR.  Sounds like I should just stick with the 70 RR piece and get rid of the c body and the other 69 Bee and R/T units. Much appreciated

if you are getting rid of some.. pm me with prices and location

Will pm you in a few days.  

[Chatt69chgr]

Of the two 727's I've got, which would be the best to rebuild to go behind a 440 in a B-body:

PK2801543K  2405  7292   ( My Mopar says it's a 67-68 Dodge, 383 2BC ) 

or

3681864  4396  0001    XX   (My Mopar says it's a 74-75 Dodge, 400 )

and why? 

This would be for street driving and less than 500 HP. 

[Nacho-RT74]

yes and no.. depending up the year.. each had differences.. so numerous to account for.. but..

to make it simple...

383HP, 400HP and 440HP engines, most often than not, had the same style of 727... 4 front planetary, 4 clutch discs in each drum, higher ratio intermediate band lever (some case 4 gear rear planetary), different governor for different shift points, and a different converter (based on application of course).

383 2bbl, 400 2bbl and 440 4bbl (non-hp; not sure they ever had a 2bbl 440) would have 3 or 4 clutch discs based upon application (i.e. truck or car), lower ratio shift lever for easier transition shifts, 3 front and rear planetary (though some trucks may have a 4 gear front planetary), lower rpm governor, and a lower rpm converter.

based upon the years though.. the valve body differs a lot in regards to fluid passage routing and size, components: later models incorporated shift enhancements such as the 3-2 downshift limit valve (1971 & up), front servo design (1971 & up), larger piston spring (aka bellville) (1971 & up); some were lockup's (think 1978), modulated reverse line pressure (again think 1978).

hope this helps, or just confuses the heck out of you   but hey.. u asked for it! 

oh yes i forgot those internals differences, not a big problem thought, but, still..

[RD]

Of the two 727's I've got, which would be the best to rebuild to go behind a 440 in a B-body:

PK2801543K  2405  7292   ( My Mopar says it's a 67-68 Dodge, 383 2BC ) 

or

3681864  4396  0001    XX   (My Mopar says it's a 74-75 Dodge, 400 )

and why? 

This would be for street driving and less than 500 HP. 

either would be fine, but i would go with the 74 trans just because they made upgrades to the transmisssions as they went along in regards to shifting and strength.

[John_Kunkel]

Both of those transmissions are 2-barrel versions that have 3-disc front clutch drums, for use with a 440 they need to be modified or replaced with a drum that holds at least 4 discs.

The '68 has the advantage of a better front servo but has the narrow front drum bushing, the '74 has the desireable wide front drum bushing but has a controlled-load front servo which needs to be replaced or modified with a reprogramming kit. Both will have 3-pinion planetaries front and rear (no big deal).

If it were me I would use the '74 core.

[Chatt69chgr]

Thanks.  That's what I wanted to find out.