Intake manifold gaskets, valley pan, milled heads, aftermarket intake, etc.

[bull]

I've been doing some reading here trying to get some information on how to configure my intake manifold setup and it seems that there's many variables, including going without gaskets altogether. What I have is a 383 that's been rebuilt with stock 906 heads. All the surfaces were milled at least slightly to get them square and flat, including the block so I do not have a standard block height. I'm also using an Edelbrock DP4B intake.

For this reason I'm leaning toward using intake gaskets above and below the valley pan to make up for any extra space there. The gaskets I have are the Fel Pro paper type and they look to be top quality. Is this the route you'd go? Is it common for people to use the copper RTV on these gaskets or not?

[Challenger340]

Usually what happens, is as the Block & Head deck surfaces undergo excessive Milling(is that what you suspect here ?), the Head moves DOWN not up, and the Intake Bolts Holes go DOWN with them,
making it harder to get the Intake Bolts started ?

By adding Intake Gaskets(thickness), on surfaced Heads and Block, you are compounding the problem,
if it even exists ?,
because it usually takes quite a bit of Block/Head milling before you'll have a problem with the intake Bolts.

IMO,
all I ever do is use the Tin Valley Pan with RTV Silicone on both sides around the Ports, and under it on the Pan End Rails.

Bob

[bull]

I called the place that rebuilt my engine and they recommended I omit the paper gaskets and use Hylomar sealant on both sides of the valley pan around the intake ports and Permatex Copper RTV sealant under the front and back.