HELP-PAINTING PROBLEMS!!

[restoman]

^^^That's excellent advice.^^^
Painting isn't that easy, there are a lot of essential steps to go through before you can even think of picking up the spray gun. You've missed several.
Don't sweat it or get upset, not everybody is cut out to be a painter.

Thanks for adding insult to injury! I'm looking for help here.

No insult intended.
But you have missed several important steps and if it were me not being quite sure what I was doing and spending the hard-earned $$$ on paint material for a re-do, I be thinking of paying a local shop to re-shoot it.
At this point, sanding it and re-shooting it yourself might cause some huge problems if you try applying clear over any sanded thru spots.
Again, no insult intended, just some friendly advice.

[sixpack_sid]

^^^That's excellent advice.^^^
Painting isn't that easy, there are a lot of essential steps to go through before you can even think of picking up the spray gun. You've missed several.
Don't sweat it or get upset, not everybody is cut out to be a painter.

Thanks for adding insult to injury! I'm looking for help here.

No insult intended.
But you have missed several important steps and if it were me not being quite sure what I was doing and spending the hard-earned $$$ on paint material for a re-do, I be thinking of paying a local shop to re-shoot it.
At this point, sanding it and re-shooting it yourself might cause some huge problems if you try applying clear over any sanded thru spots.
Again, no insult intended, just some friendly advice.

Point taken.
How much would it cost to get it done at a shop?

[elitecustombody]

Not all shops have same rates, you can post on local craigslist that you're looking for a pro to shoot your car on the side, maybe he can come to your place and do it. But if you're still trying to do it yourself,I would never paint all the pieces at once, that's a big part of your problem,too many pieces,not enough time to concentrate on each individual panel.Also, when shooting a hood or deck lid, position them as they would be on the car,meaning laying on a paint stand,not hanging,paint one side first,carefully mask off the backside and then paint the outside,peel the tape around the edge right after last coat of clear,there are few tricks to eliminate the paint edge,I usually use U-Pol fade out ,this stuff is amazing.

[sixpack_sid]

Not all shops have same rates, you can post on local craigslist that you're looking for a pro to shoot your car on the side, maybe he can come to your place and do it. But if you're still trying to do it yourself,I would never paint all the pieces at once, that's a big part of your problem,too many pieces,not enough time to concentrate on each individual panel.Also, when shooting a hood or deck lid, position them as they would be on the car,meaning laying on a paint stand,not hanging,paint one side first,carefully mask off the backside and then paint the outside,peel the tape around the edge right after last coat of clear,there are few tricks to eliminate the paint edge,I usually use U-Pol fade out ,this stuff is amazing.

I decided to give it another try. I will sand down the car with 1000 grit and shoot 2 more clear coats on it. Good advice not to paint the whole car & pieces at once. I will do car one day & pieces another day. Question--do I prep the surface after sanding and before painting the clear? Do I use wax  &  grease remover or wash down the car with anything? Or just blow it off and wipe with a dry cloth? Tack cloth?

[elitecustombody]

some of the areas are pretty rough judging by the pics, you may have to use 600 grit or you'll spend days trying to smooth out that texture with 1000 grit, I'd get some 600 and d/a all the flat panels ,then do the rest by hand,use red scotch pad around edges, be careful not to bust through the clear,do not use anything finer than 1000 if you don't want to deal with peeling and chipping clear down the road, once everything is sanded and prepped ,blow the car off, clean the room, hose down walls and floor, roll the car back in, wipe it down with prep-solvent (NOT mineral spirits,lacquer thinner,acetone,simple green) and lint-free towels, blow everything off very good 3-5 times,make sure your fans are running otherwise all the loose dirt will settle down and might end up back in the paint,also make sure all door & window openings on the car are taped off to cut down on dirt,as well as any bolt holes from backside, step outside and blow off your clothes or wear a painter's suit, it also helps to wear head sweatband and wrist bands,I wear them while painting when it's humid and hot, you don't want to take a chance of sweat drop in wet clearcoat, keep your raspirator in check as moisture also gets built up and can drip out.walk back inside,run a tack cloth over the pieces getting painted and proceed with spraying . Make sure to mix your materials per tech sheet or instruction and make sure you have proper reducer and catalyst for the temperature, I would use the slowest hardener/catalyst available to eliminate orangepeel,it will help the clear to flow out and lay nice and smooth   

Good luck

[restoman]

Hang a couple lengths of chain from under the car to the floor to eliminate static dust build-up. With the sanded clear already on the car you'll find dust will stick quicker than before. Grounding it with the chain helps eliminate it. And, you don't want a static charge going when wiping with prep solvent.
Some guys say the chain won't do anything, but every little bit helps and it has worked for me on some problem jobs.

Go over the pieces to be painted several times with the tack cloth, including the last three feet of air line going into the spray gun. Treat those three feet like it was gold - keep it off the floor where it will pick up dirt.

[qwick68]

dont forget to wet the floor too! keep the dust down!

[sixpack_sid]

So, I painted clear coat on just the deck lid tonite for a test run. I adjusted my gun to full spray. It went on dry again. I don't know what I'm doing wrong! I have the air pressure set to 60, but when I pull the trigger, it goes down to 30, and as I'm spraying it drops even more-to like 20. I have an HVLP gun. Is that giving me too low of a pressure to shoot a wet coat? Or do I need to reduce it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

[FLG]

Hey Sid,

Where are you located? 

[sixpack_sid]

Hey Sid,

Where are you located? 

Eastern PA

[Charger-Bodie]

What do you have for an air supply? Are you simply moving the gun too fast?

[AdamMopar]

Maybe this information is in here, but this is some information that would help us.

1.  Gun Make and Model
2.  Air Cap
3.  Tip Size
4. Size of air compressor, horsepower (pull it off the actual name plate on the electric motor) and CFM @ psi.

You should be setting the pressure at the inlet of the gun with the trigger pulled.  It will probably tell you a recommended inlet pressure with the trigger pulled in the owner's manual.  Off hand I would say your air pressure is dropping too much when you are spraying.

[Silver R/T]

What do you have for an air supply? Are you simply moving the gun too fast?

I was wondering about that too. What compressor do you have, what size air line/hose do you have?
You need to watch some videos how professionals do it and that should help you out

http://www.youtube.com/user/swrnc#p/search/3/eTOV6BgGfkw

[sixpack_sid]

Maybe this information is in here, but this is some information that would help us.

1.  Gun Make and Model
2.  Air Cap
3.  Tip Size
4. Size of air compressor, horsepower (pull it off the actual name plate on the electric motor) and CFM @ psi.

You should be setting the pressure at the inlet of the gun with the trigger pulled.  It will probably tell you a recommended inlet pressure with the trigger pulled in the owner's manual.  Off hand I would say your air pressure is dropping too much when you are spraying.

It's an OEM gun from Auto Zone. Tip is 1.4 mm. I have a Campbell Hausfield Professional 6HP 60 gallon air compressor. Up to 125 psi. 3/8" air hose. I have a filter/regulator 10 ft from the air compressor and another regulator at the gun. I set the gun to 60 and it dropped to 40 or below when the trigger is pulled.The max is 65psi at the gun.  I don't want to set it too high because I blew out another gun that way.
Also, I am moving the gun very slowly, just to try and get the spray to look wet on the car.

[Silver R/T]

With only 10ft of hose after compressor you're asking for trouble. It's recommended to have at least 50 ft of hose after compressor and have that run into water trap/regulator. Afterwards you can plumb into your hose reel. That compressor might not supply enough air to shoot whole car at once. You need to use solvent according to temperature in your garage. Do you have proper overlap when you're painting?

[elitecustombody]

As I asked eraly in the week, what brand materials are you using? Are you 100% positive the clear you have  mixed has right catalyst and you're mixing it at proper ratio? It sounds like you may have more than one reason for the results you have. I always let my compressor run at no less than 150 psi, but then again my compressor is 120gal 10hp and it puts out 44 cfm's. I'd check your air supply and make sure you're getting consistant air pressure, it almost sounds like you don't have enough air going through the gun. 1.4 tip is a bit small for clearcoat IMO 

[sixpack_sid]

As I asked eraly in the week, what brand materials are you using? Are you 100% positive the clear you have  mixed has right catalyst and you're mixing it at proper ratio? It sounds like you may have more than one reason for the results you have. I always let my compressor run at no less than 150 psi, but then again my compressor is 120gal 10hp and it puts out 44 cfm's. I'd check your air supply and make sure you're getting consistant air pressure, it almost sounds like you don't have enough air going through the gun. 1.4 tip is a bit small for clearcoat IMO 

I am using Keystone (Crapstone!) Urethane Enamel Base Coat and Keystone slow activator Clear coat ratio 4:1 with no reducer. The tech sheet recommends 1.3 or 1.4mm tip. It says I can reduce it 5%-10%, but they didn't give me any reducer, so I didn't know that I needed it. I will try to adjust the air pressure and spray tomorrow and try again. Monday I will call Crapstone and see what's up.

[Silver R/T]

You need to get some proper reducer and use it. I've never shot clear without reducer. That's why its so orange peely! Clear needs to flow out, in order for it to flow out it needs to be somewhat thin.

[Silver R/T]

As I asked eraly in the week, what brand materials are you using? Are you 100% positive the clear you have  mixed has right catalyst and you're mixing it at proper ratio? It sounds like you may have more than one reason for the results you have. I always let my compressor run at no less than 150 psi, but then again my compressor is 120gal 10hp and it puts out 44 cfm's. I'd check your air supply and make sure you're getting consistant air pressure, it almost sounds like you don't have enough air going through the gun. 1.4 tip is a bit small for clearcoat IMO 

Actually 1.3 is recommended for clear coat application but it's up to painter to decide which gun he likes for clear coat better. Sata Jet 2000 1.3 is one of the best clear coat guns imo

[elitecustombody]

You need to get some proper reducer and use it. I've never shot clear without reducer. That's why its so orange peely! Clear needs to flow out, in order for it to flow out it needs to be somewhat thin.

if it's 4:1 clear ,it should flow out and does not require reducer, I doubt it's OP's problem, but I'd suggest using another clear. Matrix AG40 high solids 2:1 clear with AH 404 very slow hardener.

[elitecustombody]

As I asked eraly in the week, what brand materials are you using? Are you 100% positive the clear you have  mixed has right catalyst and you're mixing it at proper ratio? It sounds like you may have more than one reason for the results you have. I always let my compressor run at no less than 150 psi, but then again my compressor is 120gal 10hp and it puts out 44 cfm's. I'd check your air supply and make sure you're getting consistant air pressure, it almost sounds like you don't have enough air going through the gun. 1.4 tip is a bit small for clearcoat IMO 

Actually 1.3 is recommended for clear coat application but it's up to painter to decide which gun he likes for clear coat better. Sata Jet 2000 1.3 is one of the best clear coat guns imo

I've been spraying high solids clear for over a decade with Walcom GEO FX gun with 1.7 tip and wouldn't use anything else,because I'm very happy with results

[Bobs69]

I'd get 600 grit wet & sand the entire car smooth using your orange on the car as a guide coat. Then buy a quart of Wax & Grease remover & another gallon of Orange & repaint with no sealer (unless you've gone thru the primer) Since you saved what was left in can to do your parts this is probably why 2 different colors. If you do not stir can good pigments can sink to bottom giving you a different colors, Thats my guess here. Good Luck. LEON.

I did stir the can when I first opened it, but with all the problems I had, I don't remember if I stirred it when I dumped it into the mixing cup. Is a paint stirrer good enough, or should I stir paint with a paint stirrer that goes on a drill?

Thanks for all the replies!! I appreciate it!

Did you filter/strain the paint?   Get a few of those paper funnels?   A tube sock, coffee filter, ..

[Bobs69]

Sorry to say, but your first 2 sentences say it all: So many problems! Where do I start!

First, there is NO problem using Slick Sand as a high build sprayable filler. Works well. Most 2K filler primers will laugh at 500-grit as a starting point. START with 220, then work to 400-600 grits for final sanding. Sounds like you worked backwards from 500 to 220. Of COURSE that will leave scratches in the paint! It is too coarse to paint over.

Leon & Restoman have some good suggestions. The scratches in the pictures are obviously painted-over 220 scratches, NOT scratches from bodywork. Leave the orange basecoat on as a guide, sand them down starting with 320 OR 400, and finish sand with either a minimum of 400 grit or finest 600 grit. This is not a rocket science color, we're talking a solid color orange. Doesn't get any easier.

Once sanded, use a final prep solvent (DuPont's Final Prep works very well, hence the name). Use either CLEAN rags or body shop prep wipes available at your local auto body store. Like others have said here, mineral spirits is a HUGE no-no. Lacquer thinner is a BIGGER no-no. You're sure to f**k up lots of shit using lacquer thinner.

Then, USE A TACK RAG lightly before spraying your basecoat. Wipe LIGHTLY with the tack rag! You can use the tack rag in between coats to remove any light overspray or dust, and before your first coat of clear. Make sure your basecoats are fully flash dried in between coats before using a tack rag. Do NOT use a tack rag during your clear coats!!!!!!

One more suggestion following Leon's advice, use your next gallon of orange to do your ENTIRE final coats on the next try. It's OK to use what you have left on jambs, undersides, initial first coat, etc, but use that next gallon for at least your last 2 coats so everything is uniform and matches.
Good luck!

I was once told not to use shop rags, they have chemicals in them from being cleaned???

[Silver R/T]

That's true. I would recommend shop towels instead

[bill440rt]

Sorry to say, but your first 2 sentences say it all: So many problems! Where do I start!

First, there is NO problem using Slick Sand as a high build sprayable filler. Works well. Most 2K filler primers will laugh at 500-grit as a starting point. START with 220, then work to 400-600 grits for final sanding. Sounds like you worked backwards from 500 to 220. Of COURSE that will leave scratches in the paint! It is too coarse to paint over.

Leon & Restoman have some good suggestions. The scratches in the pictures are obviously painted-over 220 scratches, NOT scratches from bodywork. Leave the orange basecoat on as a guide, sand them down starting with 320 OR 400, and finish sand with either a minimum of 400 grit or finest 600 grit. This is not a rocket science color, we're talking a solid color orange. Doesn't get any easier.

Once sanded, use a final prep solvent (DuPont's Final Prep works very well, hence the name). Use either CLEAN rags or body shop prep wipes available at your local auto body store. Like others have said here, mineral spirits is a HUGE no-no. Lacquer thinner is a BIGGER no-no. You're sure to f**k up lots of shit using lacquer thinner.

Then, USE A TACK RAG lightly before spraying your basecoat. Wipe LIGHTLY with the tack rag! You can use the tack rag in between coats to remove any light overspray or dust, and before your first coat of clear. Make sure your basecoats are fully flash dried in between coats before using a tack rag. Do NOT use a tack rag during your clear coats!!!!!!

One more suggestion following Leon's advice, use your next gallon of orange to do your ENTIRE final coats on the next try. It's OK to use what you have left on jambs, undersides, initial first coat, etc, but use that next gallon for at least your last 2 coats so everything is uniform and matches.
Good luck!

I was once told not to use shop rags, they have chemicals in them from being cleaned???

Shop rags?? 
No where did I say to use shop rags, or shop towels.
I specifically said to use "either CLEAN rags or body shop prep wipes available at your local auto body store." Prep wipes are thick, paper based disposable wipes specifically designed for final solvent wiping a car prior to paint. Any paint store will have them.