don't you sometimes hate your car? (8/13:inspected, licenced and ready to roll)

[Charger´69]

Christian, hope your now charging and the car is running properly, sure is a nice looking car. Also anyone who has done it, tell me about these GM alternators, they are supposed to work from what I hear. When I am at idle my headlights really go dim, even the radio starts losing power. Any thoughts?

69RT

Do you have '69 original mechanical voltage regulator or '70 and later style electronic voltage regulator?  I think electronic VR works properly and if you want more voltage use electronic VR that charges all the time 13.5 V. This 13.5 V regulator isn´t recommended for street use but I know few people who uses those and don´t have any problems  Ignition is stronger all the time etc., so it might be good for street use also.

I have now my Charger charging properly with normal '70 and later style electronic voltage regulator, but I´m going to buy that 13.5 V regulator just to test how it works in street car and of course I´ll have to have one working VR on glove compartment so I´ll buy that 13.5 V just in case 

[R6red4spd69RT]

Yeah, sometimes it can be really frustrating.

A few months back I was venting with a buddy, we both had a laugh with his remark "you don't own that car, it owns you".

[b5blue]

Get on the leak situation, I put it off for a long time and know I should have been aggressive. I'm in Florida and know the extra humidity from leaks starts working over everything, switches, connections, unpainted areas behind the dash and along the side rear windows inside the quarters. (They never got any paint in there) If it's a windshield leak you can remove the outside trim and add a lot of rubber windshield caulk around the edges and corners, clean it up and reinstall the trim. Lately my beef is not the car but new "bad" parts, I have had to re-reinstall stuff like ignition switches and aftermarket ECU's, master cylinders, 2 bad A1 Cordone re-manufactured dist. (I ended up getting a new Mopar Dist. and am still out 75.00 and stuck with a crap dist.) along with getting the wrong parts shipped to me. Dealing with Summit, Rockauto and such not knowing anything about products they sell for Mopars...you had better know what you need as they are no help.

[CB]

Christian, hope your now charging and the car is running properly, sure is a nice looking car.
69RT

not yet 

[six-pack speedshop]

Oh yeah, live can be easy in Belgium. 

WWW.SIX-PACKSPEEDSHOP.BE

[b5blue]

Christan look into the Denso alt swap....mine is working fine (Mancini 120 amp Denso) 

[70charginglizard]

I hear ya...
After spending thousands last winter on my 440 six pack upgrade, front suspension rebuild. Front disk brake conversion, repainting the engine bay and engine and upgrading to date coded wiring and hoses mine decides to take a dump from inside (either cam lobe or valve decided to crap out on me) 
Now I'm out of money and dont have enough to dig into it to see whats wrong

[68 CHARGER R/T]

I've learned one thing when dealing with weather and these type cars....



They leaked when new, they leaked while under warranty when new, they leaked while they were parked, and they continue to leak today....The design of these cars glass and rubber seal are Terrible...

specificaly those dam rear main seals   

[Bob T]

I hear ya...
After spending thousands last winter on my 440 six pack upgrade, front suspension rebuild. Front disk brake conversion, repainting the engine bay and engine and upgrading to date coded wiring and hoses mine decides to take a dump from inside (either cam lobe or valve decided to crap out on me) 
Now I'm out of money and dont have enough to dig into it to see whats wrong

jeez, sorry to hear that 70charginglizard, a friend of mine is in a similar situation with his Valiant Charger 4 weeks after his 6pk went on, had bearing metal in the filter as well . some consolation I suppose is that the front end and harness is done and dusted 

[mauve66]

everyday i drive the ranger to work

[CB]

Changed the ALT, new BAT, new regulator, new resistor, new sparks and new coil.
Still dead.
Only possible faillure: the MSD unit.


CB

[b5blue]

No spark off the coil when it's cranked? 

[CB]

No spark at all.
I tested the MSD unit like they discribed on their site, still no spark.

I think I fried the unit

Per is doing all he can to get my car on the road, also Koen came bye to test all the wires.
 

[b5blue]

CRAP! I'm no help on MSD systems, factory type had me climbing the walls for a while. 

[six-tee-nine]

I did some thinking on the subject C.

I really am affraid that you killed the 6AL unit in you testing manouvers to try and find out if your alt was charging the battery. By disconecting the batt with a running engine you probably also disconnected the pwer supply to the 6AL box.
That might have killed it somewhat.

You might try and pull it out of the car and see if you can open it up to see if there is a fuse inside the box or something that looks kinda black so you atleast have a clue what crapped out.
Maybe there are some guys here that have expierience in repairing these thing that can get us going again.....

Koen

[b5blue]

Agreed on that! 

[CB]

 

With another wire harness and ecu, I am hoping to get her back.

[b5blue]

I went from ignition switch to harness to ECU to new FBO- ECU, coil, and ballast, now on to FBO dizzy! 

[CB]

I went from ignition switch to harness to ECU to new FBO- ECU, coil, and ballast, now on to FBO dizzy! 

Having fun llready? 

[b5blue]

Dizzy will be here next week so I'm waiting! I WAS going to recurve my MP one but since I had an extra "core" bought newly rebuilt with way to much side play in the rotor shaft and God only knows what for phasing and curve/advance........thanks for nothing A-1 Cardone! Anyway after talking to Don at FBO I get 35.00 out of it on one they build just for my set-up. So turn bad to good and have a MP one as backup to play with. (I figured by the time I re spring, reduce amount of advance, and adjust vacuum advance, run test, re-adjust, repeated times and add in I may break something...well you get it.) The Mopar Performance unit is nice but for a daily driver with a mild MP "resto" cam it's springs are too light and it has way to much advance "out of the box" add the settings for vacuum advance on top of that and you end up leaving the vacuum advance not used and keeping your foot out of the throttle to avoid detonation. The FBO A688 kit got the car running so well I instantly found the "now it starts but runs like crap" problem that had me stumped, some how my initial timing settings were off. I adjusted that then after reading Don's book on tuning and talking to him just decided to let him build a dizzy set up for my engines profile. (It's only more money I don't have) I'll let you know how it works out.  Here is a link if you are interested   www.4secondsflat.com

[rattlehead_74]

No spark at all.
I tested the MSD unit like they discribed on their site, still no spark.

I think I fried the unit

Per is doing all he can to get my car on the road, also Koen came bye to test all the wires.
 

Hey ,hate to say this but you probably did toast the box ,,i have the 6al on my car ,,one day i went to move the charger out of the garage and had my buddy unhook the battery cables and toss them on the engine  (while running)no front clip on the car ,,,,(STUPID LOL) but as soon as the positive touched   ZAPP! fried the ignition,,,But there is something good to come out of this ,,I sent it to MSD and they had it fixed and returned to me in 2 weeks time ,,and it only cost me 75 bucks ,,i think there was 3 resistors they had to replace,,,but from illinois to texas and back 2 week wait and 75 bucks was way better than buying a new one! hope this helps

[Nacho-RT74]

I'm amazed all the problems we have tried to deal through messenger and still haven't catch where exactly si the problem on Christian's Charger.

what I usually do, is get a week rest ( or more ) and then check everything from the begining

[DENNYSCARS]

Understand about hating   your car.  Finally got mine ready (3yr resto) for its first highway run to a show at Dupont Registry in Clearwater, FL and everything was going great,   running strong, A/C working, cruise working, stereo working then as I was heading UP the bridge on the Howard "Frankenstien" Bridge (I-275S) the engine started losing power.  Coasted down the other side and guess I popped a head gasket.  Water vapor coming out the breather hose at the air cleaner and blew water out of the overflow............didnt see any "additional" oil on the dipstick but did loose some water.  First time I have ever used a tow service.  Hope its the last.  Did have a large audience on the bridge though!  I have about had it with this rebuilt engine I bought on Ebay.  Should have fixed my block and rebuilt it myself.  The guy has been helpful and all but between the rear main seal leaking (got real quick at replacing the seals, 6 times and still a small drip. Now the head gasket(?). I guess I will yank it out and redo everything myself.  Everyone still likes her,cause she's is a looker!

[Grim Jhaixus]

Hate my car? Oh yeah. I yell, cuss, throw things, threaten to leave it, point and shout, you name it.

And then I see a shopping cart sized plastic jellybean like everyone else has got and I love it again. I crank it up, listen to it idle a bit, and all the tension melts away.

Most satisfying relationship I ever had.

CB, I solved my non-charging problem through a combination of Nacho's parallels and upgrading from a stock 60 amp alt (Autozone) to an updated 78 amp alt (O'Reilly's).

[Nacho-RT74]

CB, I solved my non-charging problem through a combination of Nacho's parallels and upgrading from a stock 60 amp alt (Autozone) to an updated 78 amp alt (O'Reilly's).

we are working on that, but... 1- he can't go to O'Reilly's, or autozone or anywhere LOL... 2-something on the check is failing and we can't find it ( we are talking thorugh messenger )