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Can I replace fuel sender unit without removing fuel tank?

Started by Dans 68, March 31, 2010, 01:00:23 PM

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Dans 68

As I need to calibrate and probably replace the original fuel sender unit, and as I'm always looking for an easier/cleaner/more logical way on doing anything ( :yesnod:) is it possible to change it out without taking the fuel tank out first? The FSM directs me to remove the fuel tank before removing the sender unit. So for all of you that have done this...how have you done it? I've read the threads on calibration after you get the unit out, on setting the half full measurement, etc., so that is covered. Ideally I would run the tank dry, fill it up with 10-gallons, and install/calibrate the sender unit. Thank you for all your opinions.

Dan
1973 SE 400 727  1 of 19,645                                        1968 383 4bbl 4spds  2 of 259

Hemidog

Yep, I've done it.
Filled the tank with 10 gallons and took it out (Many times!  :flame:)
Didn't even jack the car up.

My gauge now reads correctly on the Empty side, but goes way over Full when the tank is full, but the Empty side is what matters.

Dans 68

Thanks, Hemidog. Good to know. I guess I'll get to work this weekend on it!  :yesnod:

Dan
1973 SE 400 727  1 of 19,645                                        1968 383 4bbl 4spds  2 of 259

Nacho-RT74

it is posible on 3rd gens at least... same, doen't even need to jack up the car if you have the stock ride height
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

tan top

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on March 31, 2010, 02:30:52 PM
it is posible on 3rd gens at least... same, doen't even need to jack up the car if you have the stock ride height

yeah don't even need to on a second generation  ! well i could get under there 20 years ago  ! but too many big MC meals have happened since  :icon_smile_blackeye:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

bill440rt

I have to jack up the car on all 4 corners to get it level. Let the rear axle hang to give you some more room. I loosen the straps at the J-bolts to drop it down for better access.
Either syphon the gas out or let it run until empty. I put in 5 gallons to give 1/4 tank. Then, I remove the sending unit & hold it in place the same way it would be installed in the tank. Have a helper watch the fuel gauge, & move the float as the other person watches the gauge. I then tweak the float arm until it reads correctly.
Install it in the tank, & check. Remove & re-tweak as necessary. Then, I add another 5 gallons to give it about 1/2 tank, & check the fuel gauge again.
Kind of an "eyeball" way of doing it, but I got my '68 to read very close this way. I have to do the same thing to the '69 now.  ::)
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Back N Black

I had to adjust mine last week.  I drained the tank and put in 5 gallons and use a voltmeter to measure voltage at the sending unit, then i pulled the sending unit and hooked it up on the floor using a couple of jumper wires, i measured the voltage again and moved the arm to read the same voltage i had when it was in the tank. I marked the position of the float on the floor and then moved the sending unit to measure 1/4 tank on the gauge. Next step was to bend the arm back to the first mark on the floor.It took all the guess work out of the process.

Dans 68

To add more content to this thread, what brand sending unit do you recommend? What have you used? Three I've found vary in price for a 3/8" fuel sender unit:

Megaparts: http://www.megapartsusa.com/proddetail.asp?prod=183-U114

YearOne: http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?hid=114GW16125

Dante's: http://www.dantesparts.com/fuelsending.html

Thanks!

Dan



1973 SE 400 727  1 of 19,645                                        1968 383 4bbl 4spds  2 of 259

70sixpkrt

I talked to a buddy of mine who owns an auto parts place and he says they are all pretty much made in China these days. One of these days I need to pull mine out and calibrate it. I changed it 15 yrs. ago and never calibrated it. I fill it up and it shows 1/2 tank on the gauge.


440-6pk, 4-speed, Dana 60 with 3:54  
13.01 @107.93 (street tires spinning all the way down)

Dans 68

It looks like YearOne and MegaParts senders are the same (except YearOne charges $79 more  :P ). The RockAuto item (SPECTRA PREMIUM Part # FG68B) looks a bit different (plastic float?).

Dan
1973 SE 400 727  1 of 19,645                                        1968 383 4bbl 4spds  2 of 259

Rolling_Thunder

So is there any sending units out there that actually read accurately with the correct resistance values ?
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

Nacho-RT74

the one I got was Plug and Play, it was the CHEAPER on the market and also the correct look with brass floater and metallic strip ( except for the straight outled what should be 45º ):

prices haven't changed a lot since those days, from VANS:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-68-69-70-Charger-gas-fuel-sending-unit-3-8-NEW_W0QQitemZ170293766478QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item27a64ca94e

Only detail is I have lost the reading maybe 3 or 4 times after a big BUMP... but then kick out the gas tank and VOILA! LOL. mostly sure will need to remove and apply some light pressure on point tab against rheostat. piece of cake
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html