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Quickest valve adjustment order Question?

Started by hawaiico, December 03, 2005, 05:00:53 PM

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hawaiico

Question for Magnum roller Rocker Arm adjustment for Comp Cam hydraulic rockers for 440 engine.  
Directions:  
1)   Adjust intake when exhaust begins to open.
2)   Adjust exhaust after the intake moves all the way up, rotate past maximum lift, approximately one-half to two-thirds of the way back down, then exhaust can be adjusted.  

Question:   Why can't I adjust both the intake and exhaust valves when that cylinder is firing?   Or, is there an order where I can adjust the intake and exhaust on two different cylinders at the same time when the above ocours?

Sorry for the dumb question.   Thanks, Bob
Have Charger, Will Travel .......

firefighter3931

That is one way of doing it. I like the 90* rotation method. Basicly you start at tdc with the piston firing on #1 and adjust two valves which are indicated on the chart....rotate 90* clockwise and adjust two more...then another 90* and the next two...and so on until they're all adjusted. I've scanned the Mopar Performance Chart for you....just follow the chart and you'll be fine.

With hydraulic lifters you want to dial in about .020 preload. Adjust the rocker until there's some resistance when you roll the pushrod between your fingers...that is zero lash. Turn the adjuster another 3/4 of a turn and now your preload is set.

Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

hawaiico

THANKS, just what I needed.  This site is awesome!  Bob :yesnod:
Have Charger, Will Travel .......

Chryco Psycho

I use the first method you describe , it works out virtually identical to the decalbut I make sure the intake is fully closed , this positons the lifter on the back of the lobe which is important on long duration cams

hawaiico

Do I need to back the adjustment off completely then check the back lash?  I ask because all the push rods turned easily, I then took the free play out from there and made the 1/2 more turn.  Maybe I need to check it again?? 
By the way, I've ruined two valve cover gaskets trying to install the right side cover.  With the HP cast manifolds it's hard to get the cover on and off.  I think I need to loosen up that manifold first, then bolt down the cover, then tighten the manifold back up.  Thanks Bob
Have Charger, Will Travel .......

firefighter3931

Hi Bob, if the pushrods turned easy before you set the preload then there wasn't enough preload dialed in....this can cause a noisy valvetrain. Basicly, what you're doing is pushing the plunger into the lifter body to remove any play....that is how a hydraulic lifter works.

If you followed the first set of instructions and the valvetrain is quiet then don't worry about it. If the valvetrain is noisy then check it over again. I'm assuming valvetrain noise was the reason for initial post on valve adjustment ? I would also recommend that you crank them down 3/4 of a turn.

Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

hawaiico

Thanks, yes I did have a noise coming from a couple of lifters.  Seemed to haved stopped now though.  With a persistant valve cover leak I haven't really put it to the test yet.   I'll really know after I change the gasket out.  thanks, bob 
Have Charger, Will Travel .......

firefighter3931

Good work Bob....now go out and burn some rubber  :drive:

Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs