A/c oil for RV2 compressor

[WH23G3G]

I got a remanufactured RV-2 compressor and a new A/C clutch for my 73 400. I'm going to go ahead and mount it along with everything else so I can just use the standard belts. The only original part I'm using is the EPR valve and the spring. I've got a new evaporator, NOS suction filter, condenser, drier, pressure switch, harness, remade lines, expansion valve, clutch, and reman compressor. I've got new o-rings for it. Do I need to put any oil on the o-rings before I install them? There was a small rubber seal on the bolt that plugged the switch connection on my new drier. Do I need to install the rubber washer on the switch? Finally do I use Ester or PAG 100? The guide that came with the compressor says 10 ounces of PAG 100 but some veteran mechanics say Ester. Is PAG 100 ok? Do I put in all 10 ounces of the oil in the compressor? Is the compressor going to be noisy? I've never actually heard an original Chrysler A/C compressor going because they're usually disconnected or people take them off. But I gotta have it here in GA.

[roger440]

Good to see someone making it all work. How did your hoses come out? Do they look stock or are they just modern replacements that work. We need pics!

Dont know the answers to your questions though!

[y3chargerrt]

If you are using R 134 use the PAG oil.The veterans say use the ester oil because thats for systems with R 12.Yes oil the orings up before installing and don't over tighten.I would put some oil in the compressor before starting. You can also get freon with the oil charge in it. Good luck

[elacruze]

The manufacturers will tell you not to use PAG or Ester on the o-rings, use mineral oil. 

[WH23G3G]

The hoses I had are original bends and everything. I had to get the metal line completely remade because it was too rusted. It doesn't look like an NOS piece but it has the same bends and everything. I have to get one more line from the compressor to the condenser since no one can redo it because of the muffler and the way it is crimped on. I plan on taking a picture under the hood after everything is totally hooked up. I remember someone saying that Classic Auto Air said to leave out the EPR valve from the compressor. Do I need to or does will it still work? I couldn't find the one like mine, there was two different ones used and I can't find the right one anywhere so I'm resuing it.

[John_Kunkel]

If there are no traces of the original mineral oil I would use PAG. Put it all in the compressor, it will circulate through the system with use.

The switch on the drier needs an O ring. There is a dedicated O ring lube for use on all systems.

The EPR valve is necessary unless a clutch cycling switch is installed in the system.