Skim coating

[FLG]

Hey guys/gals,

Im beginning the body work on my set of doors. I got them from AZ so they are rust free. Ive stripped them down and am figuring on using a good etching primer to go on them, then doing the body work.

There are a couple of areas which need attention on the door (some small dings) but in general i want to make them laser straight.

Ive been told the best way and only way to do this is skim coating them. Also i had to fill up molding holes across the doors so even though i used as little heat as possible im sure the heat from the welding had to move things just a bit.

Whats the process in skim coating? I know to get the dents filled in first then do the rest.

What plastic should i use? Ive been looking at evercoat Rage Gold, or extreme.

Also should i etch prime then skim or skim then prime??

Thanks!!

[bull]

I'm no expert so everyone, feel free to blow my response out of the water. But IMO I would just use spot filler on the large dings, level them off and then spray it all 2-3 times with some quality filler primer and go from there.

[69 OUR/TEA]

Etch prime is probably the best known for using on bare metal ,but should not have fillers applied over them.If you did etch something,sand it off before you do your plastic work.Just the same,do not put etch primer over bodyfiller.At least this is with the product I use.I always do my plastic work right on the bare metal,that is stripped,cleaned and DA'd with 180 grit and prepsolled real good.
As for skimming the whole door,if they're not that bad just find and fix all the dings,dents whatever,get the plastic as straight as you can,high build urethane prime them,guide coat block them out,and if still not where you want to be,polyester prime them(there's your skim coat),and reblock that.Skim coating the whole door is getting yourself into alot of work,and if you're not very experienced with doing plastic work,you might be making it worse than they really are.But on the same note usually to get cars laser straight,yes,the panels are pretty much skimmed from head to toe,mostly very thin and transparent,but still covered.

[jaak]

  My suggestion, especially trying to do your own body work.... use polyester primer for your "skim coat". My method so far has been 1.) strip to metal /repair rust 2.) Epoxy prime 3.) filler work 4.) polyester primer (thats where Im at now, have the whole car in poly)

After blocking the polyester (slicksand, featherfill, quicksand whatever brand you choose) then go to your regular 2K urethane and prime and block it a round or two.

Polyester primer is basically a body filler you can shoot out of a gun (you need a big-ass tip) I have a cheep gun with a 2.0 tip and I still have to thin it 10% to get it to lay down smooth.

Also check out these bodywork sites, tons of great info, and alot of pros hang out there to give you great advise.
http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php
http://www.autobody101.com/forums/

I am no pro, but just wanted to give you advise for what has worked for me so far.
Good luck and keep us posted,
Jason

[FLG]

Thanks guys.

The doors are down to metal. So i assume best bet is to do my plastic work. then epoxy prime them? that will alow me to prime not only the bare metal but also over the filler or are there etch primers that can go over filler? Than maybe a high build prime and poly if it needs or just a good coat of epoxy than poly.

ill be using evercoat rage gold for the filler.

[FLG]

Doors (well really just 1 door, working slowly here...no rush) are now sanded. Man i love AZ stuff, not a SINGLE bit of rust on these things. 

I've done some homework and i think epoxy is my best route. Can someone recommend a brand and product? Id like to pick it up locally so the stores around here carry most of the name brand stuff.

[ipstrategies]

I have been researching epoxy primer and ordered Epoxy Primer from SPI, free shipping a and a great price I also ordered the Water based Grease Cleaner for prep before the Primer is put on. I have not had a chance to use it only that all of the reading online on forums this is "the stuff" and the tech support is great call in or support forums with lots of tips.

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Pricing%20Info.htm

[whitemtnelf]

My local body shop supply store recommended PPG DP50LF for an epoxy primer. I've shot the whole car with it and am happy with the results.

[restoman]

Most polyester primers are designed for bare metal adhesion, so an epoxy as your first coat is not really needed.
Use the polyester primer over your filler, and then urethane prime over that after blocking it straight.
It is not really recommended putting polyester primer on top of urethane primer I'm not sure what might happen if you did so, but I'm thinking because the poly primer is such a heavy-bodied product, and urthane primer is designed to be covered with paint, not filler, a lack of adhesion might someday occur...

Polyester primer is by far, the easiest way to get panels straight. 

[FLG]

Restoman,

All the poly primers that evercoat sells seems to say to primer over epoxy or etching primer...not over bare metal??

[jaak]

Restoman,

All the poly primers that evercoat sells seems to say to primer over epoxy or etching primer...not over bare metal??

I think Evercoats slicksand is designed to use on bare metal, that being said...me personally, I can't stand the thought of not using an epoxy first. Epoxy is a barrier and is not as porous as other primers.

Post some pics of your doors when you get a chance

Jason

[FLG]

Heres what one of them looks like at the moment. Its the only pic i took today...will have more tomorrow as i progress.

You can see the other in the pic below it just barely.

No rust on either one. Im figuring basically what 69 said.

- Plastic work
- Epoxy
- Urethane
- Guide coat block
- Poly Prime

Sound about right?

[ipstrategies]

Not disputing what 69 said however I was told to do the epoxy over bare metal then Plastic work etc.

If you call Andy 706-781-2220 from spi he is very helpful as far as asking what you are working on and what steps and order to take. I have called numerous times for tips and  guidance.

http://spi.forumup.org/viewforum.php?f=4&mforum=spi&sid=77c968d735ca96123e9f81a3c970597b

No rust on either one. Im figuring basically what 69 said.
- Epoxy
- Plastic work

- Urethane
- Guide coat block
- Poly Prime

[FLG]

Thanks for the heads up.

Posted on the forum and looks like my best bet is to finish up my filler work, epoxy, poly, then urethane. 

[jaak]

Man those are some great looking doors!

Jason

[69 OUR/TEA]

As people say to epoxy the panels first,thats ok if you want to do so,I don't,right before I do plastic work I make sure the panel is clean, DA sanded with 180,cleaned again very good ,then start my plastic work.
My thought is if you did epoxy the whole panel,then put down some plastic,sand it off where and however you do,you are sanding off the epoxy as well and the only epoxy that actually stays is what is under the plastic.We had threads on this before as to what is the best "scratch" for platic to adhere and it is 180 grit,so as long as the metal is clean you won't have any problems,and as you keep doing work continuosly on the panel, you actually keep sanding it clean and free from rust.When you have reached the point where your bodywork is at the best you can do,clean and prime then.
As an FYI,to put polyester on right then,there are going to be bare metal spots exposed,and as far as I'm concerned,I would and never will ever let polyester go right on bare metal,just me.Not saying people don't,but have a system that works for me and stick with it.Epoxy over the bare metal and bodywork,wait a day,scotch pad clean,then urethane.Block w/guidecoating to see everything,then polyester,reblock then back to a urethane as you cannot seal and or paint on top of polyester primer.
Alot of body guys on this site,some will agree,some won't.I have been doing this practice like this for years with no paint falloffs or failures.
One of the most knowledgable  ones here to listen to amongst anyone else is 1hotdaytona,great guy who is  always willing to help.
One other thing to always remember is the paint products you can be using will differ in what they can be allowed to do as far as applying them.I personally use PPG products, Omni epoxy,PPG NCP 271 primer,Omni MX polyester.Good luck with your work!