1973 SE Resto Project (Warning, LOTS OF PICTURES)

[Charger440RDN]

Have you pulled back the carpet and checked the floor pans to see if they are rotted? If the floor pan is rotted out and the frame rails it would be better to find another car. These 3rd gen chargers are selling dirt cheap on craigslist right now in running driving condition. As an example here is one in the Chicago area

http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/cto/1403780892.html

And a 74 SE in Los Angeles

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/1403180511.html

Of course these cars may have their own issues too, but you have a lot of options out there with a down economy. Good luck.

[NHCharger]

Welcome to the site. 
Over the years I have become a realist. Before you dump a pile of money and time into this project take the time to go through the car and figure out how much it will cost you to get it to where you want it. Then Double that amount and that's about what it will cost. Trust me on this one, I've been there.

[BROCK]

I could give you a link to the Eastwood kit - but, hey man, you're online
Just Google Eastwood.com & have fun looking through the whole catalogue
I get so many ideas not of what to buy; but, of what if I tried this instead when looking
through catalogues like this & tool catalogues too

I gotta agree with TufCat, though.  Man, you know you have holes all the way through
your A pillars & C pillars.  That's tough sergury there.  You also have, I'm willing to bet,
holes in your dutchman panel right below your back glass, holes in your trunk floor &
holes in your front floorboards.  Be sure to check your frame sections too.

Best advise I've ever heard is this:  Start with a SOLID car.  It's a safety thing. 
So, be sure to inspect the entire car - pull the interior, clean out the trunk & have a
good look.  Write down what you see & circle the little spots with a marker.

You have your mind made up & your vision is sweet:  Just make sure you end up with
a structurally SOLID car

[SG1022]

my advice is, if your car is not a need for a driver, make everything ONCE. Think on the best project you can get or you think to get, but spend just once.

for example, having an engine you don't need another engine, get the money on the one you already have and make it as your wish, with performance added if you want. You can get good juice from a 318, close to 300 HP without LOTS of mods and adds ( they are not anchor boats as lot of ppl thinks, they are very reliable engines ), and get dual exhaust for it. Headers if you want. Add mild performance on to an engine will cost allmost the same than a stock rebuilt.

If you think on buckets instead bench, then don't spend fixing the bench cover, go once to buckets and everything related, floor shift and console if you want, even they were available column shifter and buckets with and without buddy seat.

Don't go with a cheap dash cap, go once with dash pad rebuild service. Will cost about 4 times more but you'll be 10 times more satisfied.

etc...

but think on what you have in mind and what are the funds for it ( actually and expected ). Take your time but make it ONCE. If you make something like a first step, try to make it easier to go on to next level. Make your first step is valuable to meet the next one.

As stated this is not a cheap hobby, even less on Mopars, but funny and getting satisfaction when making it right

Yeah, I hear ya. I don't like doing things half ass.   This car is needed for a driver though, but on the other hand I don't car what it looks like as long as it is structurally sound, and safe to drive.  So I will be taking my time on it, so small cosmetic things can wait.

Have you pulled back the carpet and checked the floor pans to see if they are rotted? If the floor pan is rotted out and the frame rails it would be better to find another car. These 3rd gen chargers are selling dirt cheap on craigslist right now in running driving condition. As an example here is one in the Chicago area

http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/cto/1403780892.html

And a 74 SE in Los Angeles

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/1403180511.html

Of course these cars may have their own issues too, but you have a lot of options out there with a down economy. Good luck.

I have not yet. I just got off work so I will be working on it this weekend.

Welcome to the site.  cheers cheers
Over the years I have become a realist. Before you dump a pile of money and time into this project take the time to go through the car and figure out how much it will cost you to get it to where you want it. Then Double that amount and that's about what it will cost. Trust me on this one, I've been there.

Yes, I am a realist too(sometimes it's a curse), but I also believe there are ways to save money with out cutting corners.  I do know though that I will be putting many more times the cars cost into it(1,250).

could give you a link to the Eastwood kit - but, hey man, you're online shruggy
Just Google Eastwood.com & have fun looking through the whole catalogue 2thumbs
I get so many ideas not of what to buy; but, of what if I tried this instead when looking
through catalogues like this & tool catalogues too coolgleamA

I gotta agree with TufCat, though.  Man, you know you have holes all the way through
your A pillars & C pillars.  That's tough sergury there.  You also have, I'm willing to bet,
holes in your dutchman panel right below your back glass, holes in your trunk floor &
holes in your front floorboards.  Be sure to check your frame sections too.

Best advise I've ever heard is this:  Start with a SOLID car.  It's a safety thing.
So, be sure to inspect the entire car - pull the interior, clean out the trunk & have a
good look.  Write down what you see & circle the little spots with a marker.

You have your mind made up & your vision is sweet:  Just make sure you end up with
a structurally SOLID car popcrn

I checked out eastwood, but I was posting from my phone... kind of a pain in the ass to do too much site navigation on a phone.

Also, I love your 73SE   

I want mine to eventually be black with white interior.

[SG1022]

Does anyone have some recommended steps?

I am trying to get mine together. . .

it sort of feels like impending doom

[Charger440RDN]

I would start with the easiest thing first and that would be taking the interior out, seats, carpet etc. so you can look at the condition of the floors. Leave the dashboard alone for now though  

MAKE SURE you label all scews or parts, put them in zip lock bags 

[SG1022]

I would start with the easiest thing first and that would be taking the interior out, seats, carpet etc. so you can look at the condition of the floors. Leave the dashboard alone for now though 

That's what I was thinking. Better get a section of the garage cleared out for my parts.

I was browsing craigslist and did find these

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/1400683875.html

he says that will fit my car, but my seats don't have that metal.. pin? in the middle on the back part of the seats

[Charger440RDN]

It all depends on if you want the car to have correct charger parts, if so this seat won't look right but you could always get it recovered.

[SG1022]

It all depends on if you want the car to have correct charger parts, if so this seat won't look right but you could always get it recovered.

That's the thing, I want it solid white, and since I would get those recovered anyways might as well use mine.  What is that metal piece for? just decoration?

[Charger440RDN]

yeah those metal inserts are just for decoration. Also you may want to check but I think you may have to go underneath the car to unbolt the seats 4 bolts for each seat, that's how the 68-70 charger seats are, but yours could be different.

[SG1022]

yeah those metal inserts are just for decoration. Also you may want to check but I think you may have to go underneath the car to unbolt the seats 4 bolts for each seat, that's how the 68-70 charger seats are, but yours could be different.

that should be fun with no stands or lifts!!

[FLG]

yeah those metal inserts are just for decoration. Also you may want to check but I think you may have to go underneath the car to unbolt the seats 4 bolts for each seat, that's how the 68-70 charger seats are, but yours could be different.

that should be fun with no stands or lifts!!

Did mine on the floor. If your a skinny guy you should be fine, but looks like you have small rims/tires so might be a little tight. Make sure you get a good set of jack stands. NEVER go under a vehicle with just the jack. If your changing a tire always stuff it under the car until you get the other one on. Dont get those small jack stands with the tiny foot print. Spend the money and get the big guys...always need to be save under these 4,000 pound vehicles.

[SG1022]

yeah those metal inserts are just for decoration. Also you may want to check but I think you may have to go underneath the car to unbolt the seats 4 bolts for each seat, that's how the 68-70 charger seats are, but yours could be different.

that should be fun with no stands or lifts!!

Did mine on the floor. If your a skinny guy you should be fine, but looks like you have small rims/tires so might be a little tight. Make sure you get a good set of jack stands. NEVER go under a vehicle with just the jack. If your changing a tire always stuff it under the car until you get the other one on. Dont get those small jack stands with the tiny foot print. Spend the money and get the big guys...always need to be save under these 4,000 pound vehicles.

I am 6 foot and 210 lbs, the back of the car only has 4.5 inches of clearance, don't think I am gonna make it  .  I will probably end up making some

[FLG]

Yep guess that answers that question. Im 6ft and 155, i can usually get just about anywhere under it without a jack 

[SG1022]

Yep guess that answers that question. Im 6ft and 155, i can usually get just about anywhere under it without a jack 

haha, lucky you


Now, what exactly is that material used as trim between the chrome and body? The rubber stuff... it is dried and shrunk, are there kits I can buy to replace it?

[NHCharger]

I guess tools will be another item to add to your must buy list. Nice thing about our Charger's is there are no metric nuts and bolts on them. A decent jack and a set of jack stands is a must for working on a car. I will not get under a car if it is only supported by a jack.
As mentioned above remove the seats, rug, headliner and interior trim to inspect for rust. An easy way to look for rust holes is once you remove the rug, trunk mat and gas tank wait until it's dark and stick a light inside the car and then get underneath the car. I did this after I bought my 72 Charger and the trunk floor looked like the milky way galaxy.

[SG1022]

I guess tools will be another item to add to your must buy list. Nice thing about our Charger's is there are no metric nuts and bolts on them. A decent jack and a set of jack stands is a must for working on a car. I will not get under a car if it is only supported by a jack.
As mentioned above remove the seats, rug, headliner and interior trim to inspect for rust. An easy way to look for rust holes is once you remove the rug, trunk mat and gas tank wait until it's dark and stick a light inside the car and then get underneath the car. I did this after I bought my 72 Charger and the trunk floor looked like the milky way galaxy.

Milky Way Galaxy, at least it made a cool picture eh? 


On a side note, my oil dipstick , and the oil smells like gas... but definitely has oil properties

[FLG]

If the rings are a little worn sometimes the oil will get some gas washed into it from the cylinders. Also could be a broken fuel pump spraying oil into the engine.

[Charger440RDN]

Any progress made on the interior yet? 

[SG1022]

Any progress made on the interior yet? 

Not yet, had to work, and now I am trying to make room in the garage.

I did have a battery hooked up, and the brake light lit up, but nothing else...

Me and my uncle tried turning the motor and it wouldn't budge, we think it might be frozen.  I was looking at other engines, and what is the difference between a short and long block 318?  Will a 340 drop in and work?

[Charger440RDN]

If you have to rebuild the 318 you might as well go with a 440 engine. REAL muscle. Here is one on craigslist from 1967 which is before they dropped the compression ratio in the early 70's. I'm not sure about the 727 transmission fitting in your car though, you could ask him if he would separate it doesn't fit. Only $700, it's in Oregon and it runs  

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/1407397243.html

[SG1022]

If you have to rebuild the 318 you might as well go with a 440 engine. REAL muscle. Here is one on craigslist from 1967 which is before they dropped the compression ratio in the early 70's. I'm not sure about the 727 transmission fitting in your car though, you could ask him if he would separate it doesn't fit. Only $700, it's in Oregon and it runs  

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/1407397243.html

Yeah, I wanted another small block since they are generally cheaper, and would be easier to get running.

I did call a local shop an they have a few 360s

[Charger440RDN]

If you have to rebuild the 318 you might as well go with a 440 engine. REAL muscle. Here is one on craigslist from 1967 which is before they dropped the compression ratio in the early 70's. I'm not sure about the 727 transmission fitting in your car though, you could ask him if he would separate it doesn't fit. Only $700, it's in Oregon and it runs  

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/1407397243.html

Yeah, I wanted another small block since they are generally cheaper, and would be easier to get running.

I did call a local shop an they have a few 360s

Keep looking, i've seen several cheap, running 440 motors on craigslist like this one for less than $400 lately

[SG1022]

If you have to rebuild the 318 you might as well go with a 440 engine. REAL muscle. Here is one on craigslist from 1967 which is before they dropped the compression ratio in the early 70's. I'm not sure about the 727 transmission fitting in your car though, you could ask him if he would separate it doesn't fit. Only $700, it's in Oregon and it runs  

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/1407397243.html

Yeah, I wanted another small block since they are generally cheaper, and would be easier to get running.

I did call a local shop an they have a few 360s

Keep looking, i've seen several cheap, running 440 motors on craigslist like this one for less than $400 lately

Yeah, a 440 conversion does sound appealing actually.


Well I just got off the phone with my grandma, and she will be getting surgery and won't be able to get around for 3 months.... So I will be working for 6 days a week at our store, between work during the day and school during the night I won't have time to work on my car.

I think I am going to haul it to my uncles shop so it stays nice and dry until January when I can start on it again.

[Nacho-RT74]

Now, what exactly is that material used as trim between the chrome and body? The rubber stuff... it is dried and shrunk, are there kits I can buy to replace it?

Thst is our BIG HEADACHE to all 73/74 owners... OUR HEADACHE is a chronical disease called BUMPER FILLERS. Thats what a federal requirement for small collisions to keep the body a little bit more protected from that made, getting a little bigger gap than earliers between bumper and body. Once the gap was made, then a rubber ( yes they are rubber ) was fit to fill the gap. Thats it was in all brands and models.

No repro yet, sorry. Just QUIETE OFTEN appears somebody selling one repro I think "home made" of the center front bumper filler ( the first comes heavily damaged ) that looks a good option. I think rmemeber is on $150-180 rate.

There was some attemps to make repros of those some time ago, but still waiting wishing and hoping.

What has been made in all these years is remove fronts and get the bumper closer to body once holes on frame rail brackets are enlarged.

On rear the only solution is get 71/72 bumper brackets.