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Is the acid dip better for a Charger than media blasting?

Started by Charger440RDN, September 23, 2009, 10:05:28 PM

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Charger440RDN

Is the acid dip the best way to make sure all rust is gone out of every nook and cranny? Or does it create problems by leaving residue that can harm a new paint job? Seems like it would be hard to media blast the interior and get all the rust out of there, especially the rear pillars by the back window.

bigred68

 I've heard left behind chemical causing paint and new rust issues. I think the issue is more the alkaloid dip that's done after the acid dip (to neutralize the acid) may not reach into the same cracks and crevices the acid reached and not quite neutralize the acid.  :shruggy: I think (someday) I'm gonna go the blast route. You gotta watch that though.. Be sure the person doing it has done auto body's before and is using a proper medium. (So as not to warp the body panels) Baking soda? Walnuts? I've heard are more proper blasting media for auto body panels. As opposed to sand or silica as is more used for smaller automotive pcs.
:cheers:

squeakfinder

 Just my opinion, I don't think anything guarantees to get in between the weld seems. Also when I cut out my trunk floor it exposed more scale rust inside the rear frame rails that could not have been seen otherwise. I sand blasted that area inside the frame rails, it was a pain to clean up. But I was happy with the results.
Still looking for 15x7 Appliance slotted mags.....

Charger440RDN

Quote from: squeakfinder on September 23, 2009, 10:29:42 PM
Just my opinion, I don't think anything guarantees to get in between the weld seems. Also when I cut out my trunk floor it exposed more scale rust inside the rear frame rails that could not have been seen otherwise. I sand blasted that area inside the frame rails, it was a pain to clean up. But I was happy with the results.

Those frame rails really worry me because it seems like you would not even be able to get all of the rust out of them unless you remove the trunk floor or in the case of the torsion cross member you have to remove the floor pan to get to that. If your floor pan is nice and you don't have to change it you could have frame rails rusting from the inside out and not know it!! 

Wouldn't the acid dip be the best way to get all rust from inside the rails?

Blown70

I think opinions on this will be varied.  I personally dont know that I would.  I would cut out replace and/or inspect all the areas to be worked on.

I just think the person doing the dipping better be on there game and realize that is a reason some cars are no longer with us..... too long in the tank......

Tom

Charger440RDN

Quote from: Blown70 on September 23, 2009, 10:41:52 PM
I think opinions on this will be varied.  I personally dont know that I would.  I would cut out replace and/or inspect all the areas to be worked on.

I just think the person doing the dipping better be on there game and realize that is a reason some cars are no longer with us..... too long in the tank......

Tom

I wonder if there has been a case where the car looked solid before going in and then completely dissolved in the tank from hidden rust?!!? That would SUCK!!  :rotz:

squeakfinder

Quote from: Charger440RDN on September 23, 2009, 10:36:27 PM
Quote from: squeakfinder link=topic=62004.msg691417#msg691417 date=1253762982 

Wouldn't the acid dip be the best way to get all rust from inside the rails?
/quote]






My thinking is that the metal will still be exposed after you acid dip. So unless you dip the intire vehicle in a primer sealer there is no guarantee that it won't eventually rust in those area's. I keep my Charger parked inside a dry building.
Still looking for 15x7 Appliance slotted mags.....

bull

I don't doubt you can strip away all the rust when you dip a car but my question is how do you then treat all those nooks and crannies that you still can't reach? Do you have to dip it in epoxy?

Blown70

Quote from: bull on September 23, 2009, 11:10:20 PM
I don't doubt you can strip away all the rust when you dip a car but my question is how do you then treat all those nooks and crannies that you still can't reach? Do you have to dip it in epoxy?

My understanding is that most places acid dip, then neutralize, then dry.... some I do understand do a primer or epoxy dip.... however, my understanding is not a lot of places have that availible...... :shruggy:  but it was 4 years the last time I looked into it......I forgot what I did yesterday already..... :icon_smile_blackeye:

Mike DC

                 
The benefit of blasting has more than a little to do with how far apart the car is. 

If the trunkpans, floorpans, outer rockers, and the entire quarters are off, then there isn't much of the car you can't blast.


bull

Quote from: Blown70 on September 23, 2009, 11:14:24 PM
Quote from: bull on September 23, 2009, 11:10:20 PM
I don't doubt you can strip away all the rust when you dip a car but my question is how do you then treat all those nooks and crannies that you still can't reach? Do you have to dip it in epoxy?

My understanding is that most places acid dip, then neutralize, then dry.... some I do understand do a primer or epoxy dip.... however, my understanding is not a lot of places have that availible...... :shruggy:  but it was 4 years the last time I looked into it......I forgot what I did yesterday already..... :icon_smile_blackeye:

Unless they do an epoxy dip I see it as more of a detriment than a benefit. They did a rust prevention dip on these cars at the factory and although it was less than adequate it was better than nothing. Having clean, pristine bare metal is cool but unless you can protect it quickly it's an exercise in futility.

Blown70

Quote from: bull on September 24, 2009, 04:08:08 AM
Quote from: Blown70 on September 23, 2009, 11:14:24 PM
Quote from: bull on September 23, 2009, 11:10:20 PM
I don't doubt you can strip away all the rust when you dip a car but my question is how do you then treat all those nooks and crannies that you still can't reach? Do you have to dip it in epoxy?

My understanding is that most places acid dip, then neutralize, then dry.... some I do understand do a primer or epoxy dip.... however, my understanding is not a lot of places have that availible...... :shruggy:  but it was 4 years the last time I looked into it......I forgot what I did yesterday already..... :icon_smile_blackeye:

Unless they do an epoxy dip I see it as more of a detriment than a benefit. They did a rust prevention dip on these cars at the factory and although it was less than adequate it was better than nothing. Having clean, pristine bare metal is cool but unless you can protect it quickly it's an exercise in futility.


I agree bull :2thumbs:

MellowCharger

My car was dipped, neutralised and then E coated which is the same kinda coating that goes onto new panels you buy.....kinda bonded to the metal.

I wanted my car treated in all those places you couldn't see.







68 440 R/T
08 Ford GT
66 Sting Ray 427 Coupe
68 Corvette Rdstr
67 Mustang 390GT Fastback

Blown70

Quote from: MellowCharger on September 24, 2009, 03:23:42 PM
My car was dipped, neutralised and then E coated which is the same kinda coating that goes onto new panels you buy.....kinda bonded to the metal.

I wanted my car treated in all those places you couldn't see.



That is the way to do it if you are going to, YOU MUST e-coat. it..... and WOW NICE   :2thumbs:

maxwellwedge

Part of an article I had in a club newsletter - Answered by Roger Gibson...

A lot of chemical stripping shops use a heated muriatic (also known as hydrochloric) acid solution to strip metal. While this does indeed strip rust it also attacks the "good" metal and reduces the thickness of the metal as well. To further aggravate this situation the proper neutralization of the above process is nearly impossible to achieve leading to further "eating" of the metal long after the work was performed! This is why many a factory "Lightweight" car rusted out badly years after they were built.

Redi-Strip uses a non-acid alkaline solution that is electrically charged. This procedure "attracts" the chemical make-up of rust off the part. It will not cause metal loss, dimensional changes, work hardening, hydrogen embrittlement or stress cracking.
After this procedure the component is thoroughly rinsed and cleaned and treated with a phosphate coating to stop any surface rusting that occurs on the now exposed bare metal. The Redi-Strip process is patented. Other shops may use a similar process. The bottom line? – Ask questions! Ask what their solution is made up of and how do they neutralize it? Ask for references as well.

Charger440RDN

Quote from: MellowCharger on September 24, 2009, 03:23:42 PM
My car was dipped, neutralised and then E coated which is the same kinda coating that goes onto new panels you buy.....kinda bonded to the metal.

I wanted my car treated in all those places you couldn't see.



Very nice Charger!! WOW!  :2thumbs: This car makes a strong case for chemical dipping as the best method  :yesnod:

Aussiemadonmopars

Anyone look at media blasting using the plastic beads?? They do it here in on earthmoving machinery. I have heard of a couple of people that have done it to classic cars with good success. A bit more expensive though.

superbirdtom

Quote from: Charger440RDN on September 25, 2009, 01:05:59 AM
Quote from: MellowCharger on September 24, 2009, 03:23:42 PM
My car was dipped, neutralised and then E coated which is the same kinda coating that goes onto new panels you buy.....kinda bonded to the metal.

I wanted my car treated in all those places you couldn't see.



Very nice Charger!! WOW!  :2thumbs: This car makes a strong case for chemical dipping as the best method  :yesnod:
I LIKE THIS METHOD AS THE CAR IS DIPPED IN ELECTROCOTE PRIMER AND IT GETS INSIDE THE FRAME RAILS AND IN EVERY NOOK AND CRANNY.

The70RT

Quote from: Aussiemadonmopars on September 25, 2009, 02:59:29 AM
Anyone look at media blasting using the plastic beads?? They do it here in on earthmoving machinery. I have heard of a couple of people that have done it to classic cars with good success. A bit more expensive though.

Yeah....mine was media blasted. You just gotta have someone that is experienced to do it right though.
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NMike

just check the price difference. around vancouver there is only one place, and it will cost you ~$5000 for both dips, the cleaning and the coating.

mines gonna be blasted when i get around to it.