Gluing on metal patches

[Drop Top]

When useing glue you will need to step the seam area that is going to be glued. That way you will not have a raised area on the 1/4. There are many differant type of tools available to do this with. From hand to air operated. I'm sure Ken can elaborate on this.

Ken I'm glad to hear that you don't leave the rivets in. That makes me feel much better. Try useing Kleek-Os (I think thats how you spell it) instead of rivets. That way you wont have to drill the rivets out latter. There also much easier to put in or take out. It will make your job go much faster. Time is money.  I'm also glad to hear that you got your guns clean. I was hopeing that the tip I gave you worked out.

[Troy]

They are spelled "Cleco" in case anyone wants to search. They are like mini clamps that usually fit through a drilled hole. You can install and remove them quickly and easily. They are commonly used in the aircraft and race car industries. The fasteners look like this:

Troy

[cudaken]

 Tony that is the correct term. Maybe drop top can help me on this one. Top, can you list a part number or so a PIC of the flanger you use? I have one that is ran by a air hammer and hand held and both blow. Does not make a crisp over lap.

Rivets can still be used with out the glue. Just grind the head down some, sink a little with a pick hammer and have at it.

                            Cuda Ken

[AirborneSilva]

With the lap joint and glue it is begining to make more sense now (ok, so I'm slow  ).....

[Drop Top]

I bought an air operated one from Harbor Freight a long time ago. It has a hole punch on one end and the flanger on the other. The hole is the perfect size for a Cleco (Thanks Troy). The part number is no longer on it. I haven't seen it there for some time though. It does ok But you still have to do some work by hand on the corners. It also distorted the metal a bit more then I liked. For the corners, I made a hand flanger out of a set of vise grips and hard steal. It actually makes a better flange. But you need very strong hands if the metal is too thick or if you have a big area to do. Sorry I don't have a way to put up pictures. Check out Eastwood Catalog. I think they sell some kind of flanger. One that dosen't work very well is better then not haveing one at all. I also have a bead roller I bought from Harbor Freight for around $100 on sale. It has a set of flanger wheels with it. You can flange it on the patch panel with that. But that way is a little tuffer to work with. You would have to come in from the back side and thats not always posable.

[cudaken]

 I was looking on Habor Freight and could not find a flanger or the bead roller. Might take a run down there and take a peek.

One slick trick I was done was to weld or in this case glue a pices of metal stock behinde the repair area. Roy used a pices that was about 1/8 thick, 2" wide and cut to lenght of the repair. In this case it was the lower part rear of the wheel well 66 Charger. He installed it where 1" was hanging below where he cut the old panel. Repair pices was cut to where it butted up to but did not touch the orginal panel. Roy was using a panel spotter and welded the new part to the metal strip he attached to the quarter panel. Both panels where flush.

Bottom line, counter sinking does make for less filler work, but good results can still be had with out doing it. 98.5% of the time you can worked the filler out to where you cannot tell where the seam was.

                         Cuda Ken

[Troy]

Here's the flange tool at Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41696

I have one of these as well. The first one I bought would only make two cycles and then give up for several minutes so I took it back for an exchange. The new one works pretty good all the time. Either one worked better than me doing it by hand. Not a bad tool for $25. I'll post some pics of what it does when I get home.

Troy

[Charger_Fan]

So, when you glue on these panels, do you have to make sure you wipe up any glue that squeezes out before it cures, or will it sand off if you find some you missed?

[Drop Top]

The best way is to wipe up the excess when its still soft. But after it cures. You can grind/sand it off.

[cudaken]

 Troy, thank you for the link. I spent a hour looking for that darn thing the other day!
Now if you can find the hand held type that would be great.

Drop Top, is that the one you have?

                            Cuda Ken

[Troy]

Troy, thank you for the link. I spent a hour looking for that darn thing the other day!
Now if you can find the hand held type that would be great.

Drop Top, is that the one you have?

Cuda Ken

Here you go:
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=HTP12005&Category_Code=HT
http://www.htpweld.com/products/metal_working_tools/

Lots of stuff at Eastwood:
Panel Flanger
Flanger And Hole Punch Combination Tool
Flanger Roller Deluxe
Flanger And Dimpler Set
No Weld Panel Repair Kit
Cleco Panel Holding System

Troy

[Drop Top]

Leave it to Troy.  The combination Flanger and Hole punch is the one I have. I have seen someone else use the Flanger Roller tool before. It works OK in some applications.

Heck just get them all. You know the old saying. "You can never have too many tools". 

[haueter66]

yeah if you get the most before you die you win!  woot

[Old Moparz]

Hey CudaKen,

This topic was at Moparts a while back & they stuck in the archives. Here's the link if anyone wants to read over it. I read it with a lot of interest last year so it's good to hear others are doing it too.

Bob

http://www.moparts.com/Tech/Archive/paint/13.html

[Blown70]

I was looking on Habor Freight and could not find a flanger or the bead roller. Might take a run down there and take a peek.

One slick trick I was done was to weld or in this case glue a pices of metal stock behinde the repair area. Roy used a pices that was about 1/8 thick, 2" wide and cut to lenght of the repair. In this case it was the lower part rear of the wheel well 66 Charger. He installed it where 1" was hanging below where he cut the old panel. Repair pices was cut to where it butted up to but did not touch the orginal panel. Roy was using a panel spotter and welded the new part to the metal strip he attached to the quarter panel. Both panels where flush.

Bottom line, counter sinking does make for less filler work, but good results can still be had with out doing it. 98.5% of the time you can worked the filler out to where you cannot tell where the seam was.

                                     Cuda Ken

I purchased one 2 weeks ago at harbor freight.  Had 4-5 dies with it.  One set was for flanging.  Was on sale for $100 and will bead up a depth of 18 inches. or so.

Tom