My new 446ci set up and its problems

[ChargerMad]

Hi all,being as im from the UK, resources are limited so thought id ask you guys.

After rebuilding my 440ci + 30 (446) with the following spec: (All brand new stuff)

Holley 750cfm Vac Secondaries
346 Ported heads
Forged pistons 10:1 compression
6 Pack rods
Single plane TM7 inlet
Forged Crank and full balancing of the engine
Comp Cams xs282s solid lifter

Ive heard it should be producing power around 500 mark. Carb a little on the small side i think, so might change this to an 800 etc.

Well, where do i start, Rebuilt the engine, run it in, sounded lovely but was dissappointed when taking her out for a spin. Its got a B&M super holeshot 3000 to match the cam spec. When you nail it, the revs raise but the box is slipping in 2nd and 3rd badly. I have checked oil levels etc and willl be taking the box to a well known engineer. Could even be the linkage. Any advice on adjustment?

I have had the car placed on a dyno and the power figures only gave out 157hp at the wheels when opening the Vac Secondaries manually as its faulty. Now i know something is wrong here as my standard RB383 engine that i had in it not only felt more responsive but pulled hard. One thing bugging me at the moment is degreeing the camshaft. I have set it at 0* at the keyway, should i have set it to 4* advance hence the lack of power?

I have just been on a website and the Inlet Centreline for the XS282S cam was 106* Bearing mind that the lobe seperation angle is 110* on the cam. Most of the power is definately being lost throught the 727 torqueflite and Carb on the rolling road. Could this damage the cam if setting it to 0* instead of advancing to 4*

Your help would be much appreciated. Someone put me out my misery and let me experience real 440 power!!!!!

[Mick70RR]

That camshaft has 4 degrees advance ground into it so you just need to line up the 0 dots and it will be where you want it, at 106 degrees. This assumes there is no tolerance errors in the camshaft and timing set, it's always best to check it with a degree wheel.
Sounds like your problem is the tranny and it would help if the secondaries were opening on the carb.

[b5blue]

What and how is the dist set up like? Sounds like you need more advance maybe...at 10 to 1 what octane do you run? The 727 sounds like it needs a rebuild, I'm pulling mine to have the shift "softened up" and putting in a 145K stall T.C. for streetabilty. Good luck the guy's here will help you that things mind right!   

[ChargerMad]

hi all ,i know this is an old thread but just to update on the present  the engine  finally gave up and locked up . three months later i had the will to pull the engine and strip the unit  ithought it might of been a  broken rod but no way  after removing plug to cylinder no3  things were coming to light . the electrode was totally sheered off and after the head removal all was there to see ,the  head of the inlet valve  was off   playing around with the piston head and valve seat , bent 6 pack rod and worse still slight fracture to cylinder 3  bore to the water jacket ;. gutted as the strip down continued it became apparent all the inlets were slightly  clipping the pistons valve reliefs only slightly  . Valve lash was checked and checked by various  mechanics after i had enough of checking all seemed well at the time, cam was set up right, pushrods  right length , thinking on the lines of the heads been machined a lot, wrong gasket thickness, cam too big or wasnt set up right. The lumps  a 67 block and i  want to keep it so im having the machine shop to inspect and hopefully sleeve the faulty cylinder, new h beam rods,pistons and crank grind, as for the heads im thinking  aly. i suppose you should always recheck clearances before turning that key.   expensive   the chargers  not seen the road for ages  i couldnt make the effort but now im on to it. by the way the auto fault turned out to be a new faulty converter  . Im hoping for a better year next year  THANKS DAN

[b5blue]

WOW DAN!  Sorry to hear about that!