POR-15 is junk

[Ghoste]

Ah yes, I remember now.  Is he the one that Mike Meyers was doing the parody of in "The Cat in the Hat"?
I guess I'd fall into the non-buying category by default (you have to see Billy in order to know which is the best product). 

[roger440]

I see what you all are saying about working wit the metal to get it where it needs to be, but will POR15 or something else help stop the spread of rust before you can finally get to dealing with the metal? Or is it good just to leave it alone?

Wax or oil to stop it getting worse. To get rid of it, as already suggested, either blast or cut it out. You cant stop rust by painting over it.

[Silver R/T]

I never saw anything bad about POR15 till after I had used it 

Obviously I used it bc the sources I followed led me to believe it was a good product when used correctly...Those same ple contine to use it with good results.

Mine is currently limited to rear frame rails and has held up great...I did do all the prep per their directions though.  I sure as heck hope it holds up well for the sake it is on there.  I'll likely finish using it on my trunk floor as I have done (if it does blow up in my face I'd have had to re-do it anyway).

This could turn out to be like when I defended the 94-01 Ram dash issues and then had mine crack, hopefully not.

I did my trunk floor back in 2002 (when I got Charger). Years later it still looks like new and no peeling. It will be topcoated as per directions as it doesn't have UV protection.

[Tilar]

BTW, who the hell is Billy Maze??

The single most annoying person I know of... Next to my second wife.  http://www.asseenontvvideo.com/511847/Quick-Chop.html

[lexxman]

ok I was planning on using por-15 on the inside of my charger.On the roof supports were you can't sandblast,you know those tight spots.I have a mig welder and a small sandblaster and I'm replacing what I can,but there still will be tight spot you can't get too.

[74Rallye]

I had one big disaster with POR-15. It was due to my sorry preparation work. I've also had many successes with the stuff. It's all in the prep work and being able to completely coat the item. If edges are left unpainted, that's where the rust will lift it.
One trick that's worked well on lawn furniture for me is to spray rattle can paint over the POR-15 before it completely dries. Another thing I've done is to lightly spray etch primer onto clean steel to get it to stick.
It's not a fixer, it's a paint. It's wicked tough when properly applied.

[superbirdtom]

I live in the rainiest place on earth, ketchikan alaska. and i use hammerite it is the toughest stuff on earth. i used it on a rusty oil tank outside and it is still holding up 20 years later. I would use it on inside of frame rails. most people are looking for a 1 shot solution and por-15 is not it. or use the rustoleum hammered finish paint.  this is for all the people who want to go over slightly rusted metal. I would only use it inside frame rails . not on exterior of car as an undercoat.

[TexasStroker]

I never saw anything bad about POR15 till after I had used it 

Obviously I used it bc the sources I followed led me to believe it was a good product when used correctly...Those same ple contine to use it with good results.

Mine is currently limited to rear frame rails and has held up great...I did do all the prep per their directions though.  I sure as heck hope it holds up well for the sake it is on there.  I'll likely finish using it on my trunk floor as I have done (if it does blow up in my face I'd have had to re-do it anyway).

This could turn out to be like when I defended the 94-01 Ram dash issues and then had mine crack, hopefully not.

I did my trunk floor back in 2002 (when I got Charger). Years later it still looks like new and no peeling. It will be topcoated as per directions as it doesn't have UV protection.

Good to hear!  I'm not just one of those guys slapping it over swiss cheesed metal and hoping it works magic.  I'm just using it to hopefully PREVENT rust and it does provide a nice finish on interior areas of the trunk.  I'll probably finish the trunk floor out with it and then apply a top coat as you plan to do.  I've only had the rails and dutchman etc done since January, but it has held up great and is rock solid.

[Silver R/T]

This is phosporic acid (as far as I know) so all it does is it converts rust in another form. You have to be chemist to fully understand how it works. They also call it conversion coating. Rust Mort is the same deal, probably a little less expensive.

[superbirdtom]

I never saw anything bad about POR15 till after I had used it 

Obviously I used it bc the sources I followed led me to believe it was a good product when used correctly...Those same ple contine to use it with good results.

Mine is currently limited to rear frame rails and has held up great...I did do all the prep per their directions though.  I sure as heck hope it holds up well for the sake it is on there.  I'll likely finish using it on my trunk floor as I have done (if it does blow up in my face I'd have had to re-do it anyway).

This could turn out to be like when I defended the 94-01 Ram dash issues and then had mine crack, hopefully not.

I did my trunk floor back in 2002 (when I got Charger). Years later it still looks like new and no peeling. It will be topcoated as per directions as it doesn't have UV protection.

Good to hear!  I'm not just one of those guys slapping it over swiss cheesed metal and hoping it works magic.  I'm just using it to hopefully PREVENT rust and it does provide a nice finish on interior areas of the trunk.  I'll probably finish the trunk floor out with it and then apply a top coat as you plan to do.  I've only had the rails and dutchman etc done since January, but it has held up great and is rock solid.

ALSO THERE IS AN EQUIVELLENT IN EASTWOOD THAT A GUY USED OVER A RUST BOMB OF A CAR. AND THAT WAS 25 YEARS AGO HE TOPCOATED IT AND IT IS STILL HOLDING UP AMAZING.

[69*F5*SE]

A great product for converting rust to a non-living animal is something called Picklex 20. It was originally developed for welding but was found to convert rust and kill it.  It produces welds with up to 65% more strength than without also.  It will prevent sparks when welded.  I've used this stuff for sometime now and it amazes me that if you treat bare metal with it it will keep the metal from rusting for several years if kept inside and kept from getting wet.  Use epoxy primer to coat it, as an etch process has taken place (NO ETCH PRIMER).  It can be coated with many things just not etch primer.  It is a geen waterlike liquid. 

ZeroRust is a product that can be applied over Picklex 20 or clean bare metal. But, it can also be applied over straight rust and keep it at bay and last, unlike POR 15.  It won't peel either.  These products are gaining more popularity in the restoration world but, many out there have not discovered it yet.  It's much cheaper than POR 15 also.  It's probably very similar to Eastwoods Rust Encapsulater but is still a different product of its own.  It comes in many different colors.

As far as POR 15 goes.  Yes, it is hard when it dries to its self leveling shine. Makes you feel warm inside cause you think it is a miracle coating. But, it's just old technology that can fail even when following every instruction and using every product that they call for before using POR 15.  I have wasted some money on it with POR lasting results.  The rust came back. Enough said.

[Silver R/T]

I wonder if you put it on very thin, that way rust came back through it?

[69*F5*SE]

Actually, I applied it liberally after using their degreaser Marine Clean and the Metal Ready.  I even used it on an old shovel treated with all the above and the rust came through eventually.  I hardly use the shovel.  All my experience is with the black POR15.  Maybe the silver POR 15 is a better potion, I don't know. I guess it's just not for me.  No real offense to those who have had luck with it.   I've found products that I've had tremendous results with that I'm happy with and will use them when needed.  I have a sandblaster that will take care of most of my rust issues anyway so a cover up product just isn't needed.  But, I will use the Picklex 20 to keep my clean bare metal from forming even micro-rust after it's blasted if I can't get to having it epoxy primed right away.    Ted

Here's a link to Autobodystore's website that shows the products I mentioned in my prior post. Worth checking into:

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=6RCC

[Silver R/T]

just wondering if you have top coated it afterwards.

[69*F5*SE]

You got me there.  I didn't have a top coat on it at all.  Even though, it should've still held up better.   

[Silver R/T]

Point being is that it does need to be topcoated to withstand UV rays, says so on instructions. I wouldn't blame it if I were you. If you don't follow instructions and product doesn't hold up as you expected it to it's not products fault. That's why I always read application data for every product I use, base/clears, etc.

[69*F5*SE]

I hear what your saying but, this was originally in my trunk area that saw very little light. It held up for a while until I found it starting to show rust through it.  I could then peel it off in little sheets here and there that exposed the underlying rust that was already there originally.  It doesn't bother me now as I removed my trunk pan but, the rust that came back is what got me to remove the trunk pan.  It really needed a new trunk anyways.  The POR 15 was something I expected to prevent removing it originally.  Nevertheless,  I don't feel comfortable just covering up rust with something before it's been converted at least these days.  The Picklex 20 I mentioned earlier is a great product to kill the rust first but, I just remove the rust all together and go from there.  I do hope that the POR 15 holds out for you in your car.  I don't like to see anyone else have to redo something that they already done with the expectations of being a permanent fix.  By the way, your car does look sweet in your avatar pic.     I hope to get mine there some day eventually.

[Silver R/T]

If someone wants to save money they can try Rust Mort. It's SEM product and I've used it before with success. It's been around a while so this product has proven itself and not something that just came out.

[69*F5*SE]

Picklex has actually been around for quite awhile in industrial usage under the original name Rasonil.  I believe they changed the name just as it became apparent that it had a following in the auto restoration market.  Checkout the link for info.  http://picklex20.com/  I'm not denouncing Rustmort or anything but, just getting a useful product awareness out there.  It's a more advanced product.

[rapom]

Another vote for Zero rust.  Works excellent and is a lot more user friendly.

Below is a Pro/con list that Restro Rick from the Moparts board wrote.

Here's a pro/con list I wrote to compare these different products.
There are others, such as Master Series & Rust Bullet which are similar to
POR-15.
My personal choice in all situations is to have clean unrusted bare metal whenever
possible, however in hidden or pocket areas, that isn't always feasible depending on
the job at hand.  Obviously I'm biased because I sell the Zero-Rust,  but I do so because I
think it's best product of its kind.  My observations listed below are based on my personal experiences...
Rick

Pros & Cons....
Corrosion Control Coatings

POR15
Pros:
1. Tough, hard, glossy finish when dried.
2. Flows well when applied with a brush.

Cons:
1. Has isocyanates.
2. If sprayed the overspray sticks to everything and is impossible to remove.
3. Difficult to remove from skin & clothing.
4. Leftover contents of can will harden and also seal can closed.
5. Initial dry time is 3-4 hours.
6. Questionable rust control.  Coating tends to act like a sheet of plastic and
   retain moisture and allows creeping.
7. Adheres best to rust.  Adhesion to clean bare steel is marginal.
8. Fades with UV exposure.



EASTWOOD RUST ENCAPSULATOR
Pros:
1. Good rust control
2. Dries quickly
3. Reasonable cleanup characteristics.
4. Leftover material stores well.

Cons:
1. Relatively expensive
2. Limited color selection
3. Adheres best to rust.  Not recommended for clean bare steel ref: Eastwood
   Customer Service Rep

ZERO-RUST
Pros:
1. Excellent corrosion control.
2. Lab tested for 2000 hr. salt spray rating
3. Dries out of dust quickly.
4. Available in aerosols, quarts & gallons.
5. Available in 10 different colors.
6. Easily recoated with proper precautions.
7. Sprays very well. (Applies very much like PPG DP epoxy
   and has similar gloss.)
8. Reasonable cleanup characteristics.
9. Reasonably priced.
10. Is safer to use... has NO isocyanates.
11. Has exceptional bare metal adhesion as well as over tightly adhered rust.
12. Leftover material stores well.
13. Can be thinned and poured into seams, etc. and drained off material
   reused.

Cons:
1. Paint film stays soft until fully cured.
2. Has limited UV exposure qualities.  Will fade after 3-4 months of direct exposure, but
   this will not affect corrosion control.
3. Can be brushed, but works best when sprayed.

[TexasStroker]

In the future, particularly if I have any issues with this batch of POR15 I will try picklex and ZeroRust.  I can continue to say the POR15 is holding up fine in the confines of the garage, lol.  The RestoRick bit was nice!

Just curious...Is there any need to top coat it if it is on the frame rails and underside of the trunk pan.  It looks great imo and I could prob live with it fading.  However while the car is down would be the time to go ahead and spend more time on my back sanding...I guess    Most of the guys I referenced were going full tilt and painting the undercarriage body color etc.  One or two were leaving it as is, but I never got to follow update threads regarding how well the POR15 had held up etc.

[69*F5*SE]

Since you've already got it applied to the underbody, topcoating it would probably be a plus.  A lot of people forget that POR 15 was designed to P-aint O-ver R-ust and not for bare metal.  It seems everyones experience is different with this stuff.  Some like and some don't.  It failed for me and was a waste of time and money.  I followed all the instructions, used their cleaning and etching products beforehand and over time the rust started showing through.  It was used in my trunk area which saw no sunlight.  I never topcoated it.  But, it didn't fade or anything.   I will agree, this stuff dries hard and is tough but, it just isn't the correct fix for me.  At least with my application. 

Picklex 20 and ZeroRust are better products in my experience.  Like I mentioned above, I'd rather remove the rust altogether by sandblasting or grinding etc..  I used Picklex 20 to keep my sandblasted bare metal from rusting over a long period of time (kept dry and inclosed) until I could get it primed.  It can be used for this application although, I suggest getting bare metal primed as fast as possible.  But, it can also be used for welding (which is what is was originally designed for).  It is supposed to increase the strength of the welds by up to 65%.  But, it will also kill rust altogether.  It's a versitile product.  Weld sparks are eliminated using Picklex 20 which is a good thing.

ZeroRust was designed to be applied directly over rust like POR 15 but, it didn't fail me in my experience.  It comes in several colors and is less expensive.  Hope all this helps without 

[TexasStroker]

As of right now it is just on the frame rails (inside and outside) but I intended to do the entire pan to hopefully rust proof it...However, the sanding of the friggin underside of the trunk floor with POR15 on it would be a complete pita.

Would it be better to just prime it and spray rust proof paint or something?  I believe I saw that ZeroRust was available as an aeresol    As much as I like body colored trunks, I'm keeping it black bc I just like the contrast.  Heck back in the day I used Rustoleum Flat Black on the front wheel wells and that stuff still looks good    I just really wanted to do everything I could to prevent the trunk floor from rusting out during my tenure as owner/operator of the Charger.  Granted removing the late 70s era carpet and getting solid weatherstrip should help 

I don't take offense to any of this stuff...I used POR15 based on advice from guys I consider to be top notch bodyworkers.  So far I haven't had any problems with it, but it has only been on in limited areas for about 5 months and hasn't seen much natural light (I have it on the frame rails, the rear seat brace, and the underside of the dutchman panel etc etc).  That area had surface rust and I addressed it as per instructions and as of Sunday night it still has an amazing finish on it (although no one will ever see it but me, lol).  I'm just here to learn stuff and do the best I can for the car!

[69*F5*SE]

 Read up on the ZeroRust and go from there to see what you would like to do. 


Here's the link for ZeroRust  http://zero-rust.com/

[acelondon]

Anybody here use Chassis Saver? at 24$/pint, i hope its a little better!