mini starter and keisler TKO transmission questions

[charger2fast4u]

i'm getting my list together for parts  i want with my keisler transmission when i order it. my questions are whats the best mini starter to use with the TKO trans? i'll have 2'' TTI headers to dual 3'' exhaust so the starter has to clear that.  what tooth flywheel should i get and should i go with a steel or aluminum one? my build is going to be a stroked 440 with the TKO trans and DANA 60 rear hoping for 600+ HP in a 68 charger and will be a daily driver if this makes a difference thanks for any help.

[Charger-Bodie]

I have basiclly that same combo....I went steel on the fly wheel..Not sure how many teeth,and as for the starter I went with a original monster cause I like the sound.

[Long Island RT]

I've also bolted up the Kiesler to my Stroked 440. I haven't started it yet but it is in the car and I have plenty of clearance. 
I have Doug's 2" primary headers.
I have a 130 tooth steel flywheel.  I believe the 143 toothed flywheel will fit.  Either way - make sure you have the correct bellhousing.
I have the mini started from 440 source.

I HIGHLY recommend you wire up the starter before you put the headers on!

[471_Magnum]

I ran a 143 tooth flywheel on my Charger with the Keisler and 1 7/8" TTi headers.

Clearance was okay, and the starter would install without removing the headers. Battery connections needed to be made prior to bolting it up though.

I also ran a starter blanket in an effort to keep it cool as hot starts sometimes were a problem.

I'll have 1 7/8" Hooker Comps on my Cuda 440 with a Keisler. I'll definitely mock it up out of the car, but I'll likely run the 143 tooth flywheel again.

[charger2fast4u]

what made you's choose what tooth flywheel to get? is the more teeth on the flywheel the less the starter has to crank to start am i right on this? is there any disadavantage of using an aluminum flywheel? i would think it would be better because its less rotating mass.

[Long Island RT]

I believe the 143 is the standard 440 flywheel.  The 130 is more common on the 383 and the small blocks.  I would go with the 143 (11" pressure plate & flywheel) as the bigger size = more surface area to grab.  The only reason I went with the 130 (10.5") is because I unknowingly bought the 440 source (universal) flywheel along with their crank, rods and whole bunch of other stuff.

As far as aluminum - I would think the same thing.  Lighter = faster revving.  And if cost is not an option...  Although I don't know what the wearability of aluminum would be on the street?

[471_Magnum]

You don't want an aluminum flywheel on a relatively heavy street car. Leave those for the flyweight race cars.

The 143 tooth / 11" flywheel opens up your clutch options a bit. The mopar 11" pressure plate bolt pattern is common with some GM applications, as is the 1 1/8" 26 spline input shaft on the Tremec. I've been told a clutch for a mid-90's LT1 F-body is the same application, although you wouldn't want to use a stock replacement Z28 clutch behind a 440 in a heavy car.