1970 440 stroker question(s)

[kokxville]

I post this before in the generalQ&A section.Any advice would be very much appreciated.Here´s an update.

At this time i´m putting a list together with the parts i still need,and i´m going to order soon.

I´m having doubts about what to do with the engine.I have 2 datecoded 1970 440´s sitting here,and i have a 4.5 inch forged cranck with rotating assembly wich i was thinking in putting in one of those 440´s.But i haven´t got a clue what cam,heads,intake and torqueconverter i need to get to make this a monster street driven ride.I have 3.55 posi in my 8.75.

I also can use the original cranck,and do a nice setup.I know what i can achieve then. ( i think the JMS 440 is very interesting ) 
At first i want to drive it with a Carb,but after a while it will be converted to efi.I have the factory disc brakes in the front.I mention this because of the cam choice.Also want to upgrade this after a wile with a 4 disc system.

What are your thoughts about this?

I still haven't find time to put some pictures,but i will put them soon on the board.

Thanks a bunch 
John

[firefighter3931]

With a stock block my personal limit is a 4.25 stroke. This still allows for an internal pickup which makes life a lot easier. Better rod ratio and taller pistons...both of which add to longevity on a street type build. 



Ron

[kokxville]

Hi Ron,

so you mean to not use the 4,5 inch cranck,but if i want to stroke my motor in need to buy a 4.25 kit from 440 source or something.
Like i said if i go with the standard stroke,the JMS Carcraft build would be a nice setup for street use.

John

[firefighter3931]

Hi Ron,

so you mean to not use the 4,5 inch cranck,but if i want to stroke my motor in need to buy a 4.25 kit from 440 source or something.
Like i said if i go with the standard stroke,the JMS Carcraft build would be a nice setup for street use.

John

John, i would avoid using the 4.5 stroke crank....unless you want to deal with an external oil system. The other downside is short pistons and reduced rod ratio, both of which accerate cylinder wear and increase side loading on the block. Not so good if longevity is the goal. 

The 4.25 crank fits in there nicely and you can still run an internal pickup.  On a street bruiser build like you're contemplating, the 6qt hemi oilpan works perfect with this crank and the pan won't hang below the k-frame.

As for the heads, something like an Eddy RPM or MP aluminum 452 casting with the std port window will work fantastic. The standard port window will limit peak power in the 6000 rpm range and make loads of torque and off idle power. That's exactly what you need with a 3.55 gear. Holley street dominator intake with a Proform 950 cfm carb and a set of 2in headers and you're in bussiness.

With the right cam profile this engine combo will make more power than you'll ever be able to hook up on a street tire. 



Ron

[kokxville]

Thank you Ron,you are very helpfull as usual 

I know if i use this 4.5 inch cranck i need to go with the external oil system,but i didn't know it would hurt the durability of the block.

What camshaft do you recommend if i go with this build up,and what pistons and rods should i use?The ones that come with the strokerkit?
I want to drive it with pumpgas and looking for 10.5:1 compression

I think i go with the eddy 84cc heads.

John

[firefighter3931]

Thank you Ron,you are very helpfull as usual 

I know if i use this 4.5 inch cranck i need to go with the external oil system,but i didn't know it would hurt the durability of the block.

What camshaft do you recommend if i go with this build up,and what pistons and rods should i use?The ones that come with the strokerkit?
I want to drive it with pumpgas and looking for 10.5:1 compression

I think i go with the eddy 84cc heads.

John

John, just purchase the whole rotating assembly from 440 source....they have a matched setup designed just for this application. 

You will need a dished piston to dial in the static compression ratio at 10.5 but they carry that as an option. 

Hydraulic or solid cam ? I prefer solid cams on these types of builds, personally. 

Have a look in the proven combo forum....there are some excellent stroker builds in there with specifications and dyno numbers. 



Ron

[kokxville]

Ron,

I´m going for a solid cam on this build,and get the 440 source strokerkit with 10.5 to 1 compression.
Wich duration and brand of cam should i use on this engine? I have a camchart,but i can't figure out wich one to use.
Also what kind of stall torque converter do i need?
I want to have a smooth acceleration al the way to 6000 rpm,not just to kick in the power at let's say 2500 rpm.
Sorry to boder you with this questions,but it require's a whole lot of calculation to match everything up from drivetrain to engine,and i'm a bit stuck right here
On the other hand,you have so much knowledge about engine building ad i think you can help me out with these questions 


Thanks a bunch.

When i do have more time,i will put a post from my build in the restoration section with pictures.

John

[firefighter3931]

John, The Comp XS290S solid cam would be a good off the shelf grind for that build.  I would look at a Turbo Action "tight" 10 in converter to match the cam and rear end gearing. 


Ron

[dstryr]

I have the XS290S for a 440 being built for my Road Runner using the 440.512.5060 kit and ported stealth heads with Harland Sharp roller rockers.  Mine has a .030 overbore so will be around 505 cubic inches and 10.3:1 compression with zero deck height. 

My heads flow approx. 283cfm with some port work, valvejob, and back-cut valves.  440$ource rates them at 280-290cfm out of the box but I think people are finding them to actually flow around 255cfm ootb; mine flowed approx. 254cfm.  I hope to have dyno numbers with my stock 6bbl setup fairly soon.  I am guessing that will be good for around 560-580 hp and over 600lb/ft of torque- more than enough for the street.

[kokxville]

Those are very impressive numbers dstryr. Mine will be .030 overbore as well.

Thanks,the info you both gave me is very helpfull to me.
I´m going to order the parts,and build me a killer setup.

John

[firefighter3931]

I have the XS290S for a 440 being built for my Road Runner using the 440.512.5060 kit and ported stealth heads with Harland Sharp roller rockers.  Mine has a .030 overbore so will be around 505 cubic inches and 10.3:1 compression with zero deck height. 

My heads flow approx. 283cfm with some port work, valvejob, and back-cut valves.  440$ource rates them at 280-290cfm out of the box but I think people are finding them to actually flow around 255cfm ootb; mine flowed approx. 254cfm.  I hope to have dyno numbers with my stock 6bbl setup fairly soon.  I am guessing that will be good for around 560-580 hp and over 600lb/ft of torque- more than enough for the street.

I would say your estimates are in the ballpark. I recommended that cam when i specced out Dean's build last year....his lowdeck 496 made mid 550's hp and 600+ftlbs with the MP 452 heads which are basicly copies of the Eddy RPM's with strait plugs (like the stealths). The 496 is running a Street Dominator low rise single plane and AED carb as well so there are a few difference between yours and his. You have a few more cubes and slightly better heads so it should make a little more power...


Ron