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Naval Jelly...What the heck??!?!?!?!?

Started by jdiesel33, January 26, 2009, 10:04:30 AM

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Daytona R/T SE

I've had terrific results with POR-15.

Goes on easy, sticks like hell, tough as nails, stops the rust dead.

I'm just not seein' the sucky part.  :shruggy:

superduperbee

Quote from: hemi-hampton on January 26, 2009, 07:15:36 PM
Only way to get rid of super heavy duty thick rust is sandblast, Navel Jelly is good for lightly rusted parts. Navel Jelly is nothing more then Oxalic Acid Diluted. I use 100% pure white Crystalline Oxalic Acid & it works good but only good for dipping parts into a bucket like bracketts ect. Heres a Pic of before & after with Acid with Subject Item only half submerged for a half & half example. LEON.

Unless you're into Half & Half and bondage like Leon :smilielol: blasting is the way to go. I tried those 'Miracles in a can' years ago, totally worthless.

jdiesel33

What media do you guys recommend for blasting? After some preliminary research, looks like sand may not be the best based on safety of the part(s) being blasted and for dust and particle release into the air. What other media have you guys used that has worked well?
1968 Dodge Charger R/T
PP1,Black Hat, Black Stripes

The70RT

Quote from: jdiesel33 on January 28, 2009, 10:00:34 AM
What media do you guys recommend for blasting? After some preliminary research, looks like sand may not be the best based on safety of the part(s) being blasted and for dust and particle release into the air. What other media have you guys used that has worked well?

Coal slag works on the tough rust. It is pretty coarse though. I found it hard to find any kind of blasting sand due to all the lawsuits (silica)......at least that's what all the places tell me.  But that is around Topeka. I am sure KC has more places.You can get the fine for blast cabinets at harbor freight but I wasn't about to pay 50 bucks for a cubic foot.
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69*F5*SE

I used silica, but I also wore a good respirator underneath my blasting hood along with some good safety glasses.  It's not an easy job to blast the underside of a car on your back.  Be prepared.   :yesnod:  Of course I had the necessary tools needed to pull the job off., big compressor, pressure blaster etc..  Oh yeah, mine still isn't done yet.  If I only had a rotisserie.   :rotz:

BlueSS454

Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on January 28, 2009, 12:26:38 AM
I've had terrific results with POR-15.

Goes on easy, sticks like hell, tough as nails, stops the rust dead.

I'm just not seein' the sucky part.  :shruggy:

Does it stop the rust on the other side?  That is a rhetorical question by the way.  There's nothing to stop it from continuing on to the metal in the center and beyond.  Think of it as digging a hole.  If someone covers up the top where you started, who's gonna stop you from diggin more?  Answer:  No one.

I had mine sandblasted.  Just don't do the deck lid or trunk...it WILL warp those 2 pieces.  Also, make sure you take it to someone that specializes in autos.
Tom Rightler

Silver R/T

Quote from: BlueSS454 on January 28, 2009, 09:43:41 PM
Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on January 28, 2009, 12:26:38 AM
I've had terrific results with POR-15.

Goes on easy, sticks like hell, tough as nails, stops the rust dead.

I'm just not seein' the sucky part.  :shruggy:

Does it stop the rust on the other side?  That is a rhetorical question by the way.  There's nothing to stop it from continuing on to the metal in the center and beyond.  Think of it as digging a hole.  If someone covers up the top where you started, who's gonna stop you from diggin more?  Answer:  No one.

I had mine sandblasted.  Just don't do the deck lid or trunk...it WILL warp those 2 pieces.  Also, make sure you take it to someone that specializes in autos.

From what I've learned when I went to auto body school, for the rust to form you need 2 things. Moisture and air. POR15 is practically impenetrable so there's no way for the air or water to get through it. Now if you got hole on the backside where air/moisture can get through that's a different story then.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

BlueSS454

I went to autobody school too.  You do need those 2 items for rust.  Also keep in mind that rust is a chemical reaction also.  Once it begins, the only way to stop it is to eliminate it.  I don't ever remember being taught or told to cover up rust while I was there either.
Tom Rightler

troy.70R/T

I buy the black silica sand at Menards (I think it is called Black Magnum)it is about $7.00 dollars for a 80lb bag. Get the pressurized blaster a hood and a good resperator. once silica sand is in your lungs it does not come out. You should beable to rent a large or small air compressor from a rental place around where you live. I have blasted cars and truck frames out in the yard. buy some black ploy and roll it out. it will help to catch alot of the sand. You will also be able to reuse some of it as long as you get a strainer so that no big particals go back into your blaster and pulg the nozzle.

68pplcharger

I agree, I've used miracle products before and they only work under perfect conditions. I don't live in that world and those conditions don't come around Kentucky that often.

73rallye440magnum

We recently started using a product called Phix at work. I cannot remember who makes it- I'm sure they have a website. It works!
WTB- 68 or 69 project

Past- '73 Rallye U code, '69 Coronet 500 vert, '68 Roadrunner clone, XP29H8, XP29G8, XH29G0