My first car (re-named from my parents....)

[TUFCAT]

I'm going to go cut ome metal off the charger with a fast grinder and no measurement  its all rusted it doesn't matter.

uhm, dude....you better explain yourself - - before you go cuttin' stuff you shouldn't

[tan top]

I'm going to go cut ome metal off the charger with a fast grinder and no measurement  its all rusted it doesn't matter.

uhm, dude....you better explain yourself - - before you go cuttin' stuff you shouldn't

............



i got all my front end stuff from these guys 

http://www.p-s-t.com/chrysler.aspx

[69bronzeT5]

uhm, dude....you better explain yourself - - before you go cuttin' stuff you shouldn't

[72SE]

I talked to an ex-body guy (my freinds dad) he said to do it, and there were some spots the it was the blaster or chemicals, I tested it and it went well, no damage to the car, I'm just a little uncomfortable
But heres my next question, I just bought some Purple Power De-ruster, to spray and leave then paint it, anyone know if its good or not???

10 guys here that know what they are talking about say DO NOT SAND BLAST SHEET METAL and 1 ex-bodyman says yes its ok to sand blast sheet metal , and you listen to him   i wonder why hes not a body man anymore  

well atlest the CHARGER isnt getting painted black , so thats a plus .  

did you ever get a chance to pull the valve covers ?

He said its ok and it looked at one of the websites someone posted and it said blah blah blah and it wasnt heat that did it, but I watch it carefully and there was really no other way, unless I grind it and I could just imagine the flood of comments I'd get, but no warpage, least not enought to notice . He's and es-bady guy because he retired, plus I've watched him work before, he knows his stuff.
and no I didnt, Ive been going full steam on the body, havent even lifted the hood, I'll try to tomarrow

Maybe the ex-body man told him it was OK to start cutting. 

[500hp_440]

 
Its the vent holes under the dash, the old owner neglected to replace them when he did the car , no one told me how to do it so me and a friend made an idea and well were going to try it, I didn't cut anythin that could be used, unless I used fiberglass which I'm not big on that idea, if you look in my pictures its the ones under the dash that look like Swiss cheese I just put that up as a joke, I was using a new grinder, upside down, in the cold, with bad lighting, it looks like I was drunk when I cut it, it's all wavy but who cares? It's under the dash!
Were those things (I don't know the names) just help in with seam sealer? I didn't see any signs of spot welds.

[TUFCAT]

Get a cut out section from a parts car and have it welded in. 

[500hp_440]

Get a cut out section from a parts car and have it welded in. 

I am getting a sleeve welded to fit of the little lip I left and just allot of seam sealer , and it that doesnt work then I'll weld it (I'll tac it in)

[72SE]

Get a cut out section from a parts car and have it welded in. 

Isn't it easier to do it right while the car is apart?  You seem to be working hard on and care about your car so why not slow down a little and not cut corners. You'll be glad you did Mike

[500hp_440]

Get a cut out section from a parts car and have it welded in. 

Isn't it easier to do it right while the car is apart?  You seem to be working hard on and care about your car so why not slow down a little and not cut corners. You'll be glad you did Mike

I am not cutting apart my car so I can get to 2 seemingly useless holes under the dash, 1 it's a waste of time, and 2 it will never go back the right way. If there was another way too late, I have all the parts I need and if it leaks  I'll just pack it with sealer.
I'm not mad, pissed of or anything that's just how I feel about those 2 holes, and thats that, unless it doesn't work.
Which reminds me how do I keep that box area from rusting?

[Troy]

Get a cut out section from a parts car and have it welded in. 

Isn't it easier to do it right while the car is apart?  You seem to be working hard on and care about your car so why not slow down a little and not cut corners. You'll be glad you did Mike

I am not cutting apart my car so I can get to 2 seemingly useless holes under the dash, 1 it's a waste of time, and 2 it will never go back the right way. If there was another way too late, I have all the parts I need and if it leaks  I'll just pack it with sealer.
I'm not mad, pissed of or anything that's just how I feel about those 2 holes, and thats that, unless it doesn't work.
Which reminds me how do I keep that box area from rusting?

Those two holes are to allow fresh air in to the heater/A/C from the cowl vent. They are commonly called "stacks" and they are often rusty due to their function. They are shaped like they are because water tends to pour into the cowl vents and *should* run out the drain holes on each side of the car - given enough time and provided the drains aren't clogged. If the "stacks" weren't there then the water would just run right into the interior. They have to be sealed well because any hole at all will eventually leak with water built up against it. Take your time, do it right, and, please, try not to screw up a nice car.

Troy

[TUFCAT]

Take your time, do it right, and, please, try not to screw up a nice car.

Ryan, take note of this continuing theme....and think things out more carefully. Seriously, most have gotten beyond busting your balls at this point. Guys are trying to save you from making some serious mistakes and messing up a car (and investment).  We've all seen projects go south when beginners take on big jobs without the proper funds, patience, and knowledge.

[500hp_440]

Get a cut out section from a parts car and have it welded in. 

Isn't it easier to do it right while the car is apart?  You seem to be working hard on and care about your car so why not slow down a little and not cut corners. You'll be glad you did Mike

I am not cutting apart my car so I can get to 2 seemingly useless holes under the dash, 1 it's a waste of time, and 2 it will never go back the right way. If there was another way too late, I have all the parts I need and if it leaks  I'll just pack it with sealer.
I'm not mad, pissed of or anything that's just how I feel about those 2 holes, and thats that, unless it doesn't work.
Which reminds me how do I keep that box area from rusting?

Those two holes are to allow fresh air in to the heater/A/C from the cowl vent. They are commonly called "stacks" and they are often rusty due to their function. They are shaped like they are because water tends to pour into the cowl vents and *should* run out the drain holes on each side of the car - given enough time and provided the drains aren't clogged. If the "stacks" weren't there then the water would just run right into the interior. They have to be sealed well because any hole at all will eventually leak with water built up against it. Take your time, do it right, and, please, try not to screw up a nice car.

Troy

Not cool on the last part dude, thanks for telling me what they do, I'm just putting a sleeve over them, which is Good Enough for Government Work.

[69bronzeT5]

please, try not to screw up a nice car.

It's happening

[500hp_440]

Take your time, do it right, and, please, try not to screw up a nice car.

Ryan, take note of this continuing theme....and think things out more carefully. Seriously, most have gotten beyond busting your balls at this point. Guys are trying to save you from making some serious mistakes and messing up a car (and investment).  We've all seen projects go south when beginners take on big jobs without the proper funds, patience, and knowledge.

Since everyone is against how I am doing it, how do you think I should do it? (If it involves cutting or welding anything on the car, it's a REALLY bad idea for you to tell me)
Also if I mess this up too bad I'll just drop the charger body on my jeep chassis throw the 440 under the hood jack it up 3 feet and go to mud fest!
I woudn't do that to a mopar, just chevelles
I know noone is busting my balls, my choices were this, fiber glass them to keep out water, or screw up the out side of the car but chopping and welding it up.
I'm installing them tomarrow, and not to   it to death but the only thing I can hurt is the rusted to crap stacks  
noone has told me yet, how the heck do I keep the iside of it all from rusting???

[Troy]

Get a cut out section from a parts car and have it welded in. 

Isn't it easier to do it right while the car is apart?  You seem to be working hard on and care about your car so why not slow down a little and not cut corners. You'll be glad you did Mike

I am not cutting apart my car so I can get to 2 seemingly useless holes under the dash, 1 it's a waste of time, and 2 it will never go back the right way. If there was another way too late, I have all the parts I need and if it leaks  I'll just pack it with sealer.
I'm not mad, pissed of or anything that's just how I feel about those 2 holes, and thats that, unless it doesn't work.
Which reminds me how do I keep that box area from rusting?

Those two holes are to allow fresh air in to the heater/A/C from the cowl vent. They are commonly called "stacks" and they are often rusty due to their function. They are shaped like they are because water tends to pour into the cowl vents and *should* run out the drain holes on each side of the car - given enough time and provided the drains aren't clogged. If the "stacks" weren't there then the water would just run right into the interior. They have to be sealed well because any hole at all will eventually leak with water built up against it. Take your time, do it right, and, please, try not to screw up a nice car.

Troy

Not cool on the last part dude, thanks for telling me what they do, I'm just putting a sleeve over them, which is Good Enough for Government Work.

Why is it "not cool"? It's good advice for anyone working on anything. If you haven't yet figured out how to replace something then why start hacking at it? Do you have some sort of accelerated timetable that the rest of us aren't aware of? I've had to re-repair areas on nearly every one of my cars because of previous owners who were in too much of a hurry to learn about what they were doing (or too stubborn to ask or too cheap to do it right). Two of the cars never were finished so what good did it do the previous owner(s) to rush the job? I have done my fair share of poor repairs on cars when I was younger so I can't say too much - but I also didn't have anyone to ask for help and my cars *had* to be drivable so I could get to school and work. I can tell you it takes more time and costs a whole lot more to fix a bad repair than the original problem. Forgive me for trying to help. If you can't handle (even minor) criticism then you're going to have a tough time in life.

Troy

[Finn]

Totally agree with these guys. There's a number of self inflicted repair jobs I did on my 68 I now wish I had done differently. They didn't seem critical at the time but now they really stand out to me. Its going to be a pain in the ass to fix them not to mention a ton of back tracking but it will be done the way it should have been done in the first place.

[500hp_440]

Sorry Troy I didn't mean for it to sound like that, it was supposed to be a joke.

I'm going to ask again;
How should I do it? and What's wrong with "repairing" the old ones, is it going to make everything rust, or just look like crap to the guy who buys it from me?

I guess I'll go to Don's later and ask him. Then I'll come back and see what you all have come up with, 

Everything last night sounded better in my head , sorry if I ticked anyone off.

[Troy]

Ok, I don't see that you've posted pictures of these things so it's hard to guess at the right way to repair them. Obviously you need to remove all the rust and restore the original functionality of the pieces. This would be a perfect question to ask in the Paint and Body section as I'd guess that most of the "experts" here aren't reading this thread.

I suppose you could fix it with fiberglass - it would be fine for a beater but this car deserves better in my opinion. I once had an Isuzu Trooper with rear wheel wells that were so rusted out that I could practically poke my head through. I made the entire rear wheel wells out of fiberglass over a masking tape framework. It looked like a boat! But I never had a wet interior again. Of course, that was a $400 vehicle that had to survive Ohio winters and mud. So, the best way to fix it depends on the situation I guess. In your case I'd suggest a metal patch and some welding. The welder's skill level will dictate exactly what and where you have to cut.

Troy

[WingCharger]

My bro fixed the floor pans in his S10 with a piece of 18gauge my dad found at work and a borrowed mig welder. Works okay for a college beater.
He fixed the rockers with Bondo filling the holes about 3 months ago, and it is already starting to bubble.

[72SE]

OK, I don't see that you've posted pictures of these things so it's hard to guess at the right way to repair them. Obviously you need to remove all the rust and restore the original functionality of the pieces. This would be a perfect question to ask in the Paint and Body section as I'd guess that most of the "experts" here aren't reading this thread.

I suppose you could fix it with fiberglass - it would be fine for a beater but this car deserves better in my opinion. I once had an Isuzu Trooper with rear wheel wells that were so rusted out that I could practically poke my head through. I made the entire rear wheel wells out of fiberglass over a masking tape framework. It looked like a boat! But I never had a wet interior again. Of course, that was a $400 vehicle that had to survive Ohio winters and mud. So, the best way to fix it depends on the situation I guess. In your case I'd suggest a metal patch and some welding. The welder's skill level will dictate exactly what and where you have to cut.

Troy

Most of us here have been working on these cars for a lot of years both professionally and by necessity and we all at one time have f***ed something up. (I am still fixing mistakes on my cars that I made 25+ years ago that I regret) If you are just throwing it together and just looking for government work let us know. We can tell you how to do that. If you really care about your car (which I believe you do) than I suggest (just suggest) you read/listen to the wealth of knowledge you will find on this site and try to build a car you can be proud of for many years.    Mike

Can you put up some pics of what you are describing?

[500hp_440]

My computer always sends up an error page on the site when I try. they're in my link below.
I already cut the tops off of them so I could get circles welded, I have everything I need to put them in except the paint.
Thanks but you told me the back half how I am supposed to get in there with a welder? (110 flux wire, welds like crap but sometimes I just need it to hold)
I do care about my car.

[tan top]

just saved your picture & posted it Ryan     is this the area , looks to me need to make , it & cut & remove the entire piece  & fabricate a new one or part of one

[Tilar]

please, try not to screw up a nice car.

It's happening

Ryan, Before you go any further, I'll make you a deal. If all you're wanting is something that runs good and makes people look at you, I'll make you a trade and I'll even come to Florida to make that trade. I have a 2003 Crown Vic Police Interceptor with 85k actual miles on it. I'll trade you even up my car for yours and everything that goes with it.

It's a true police interceptor with some nice options. 200-amp alternator, Fail-safe engine cooling system, Heavy-duty suspension and frame, Stainless steel dual exhaust, 3.27 Locker rear differential, Speed-sensitive variable-assist power rack-and-pinion steering (Handles really good)  and the list goes on.

All you gotta do is get in and start it. When you mash on the gas pedal it knows exactly what you want to do and it does it really well. And I can assure you that you will see more cars do nose dives in the first hour of driving it than you have seen in your entire life. 

[500hp_440]

please, try not to screw up a nice car.

It's happening

Ryan, Before you go any further, I'll make you a deal. If all you're wanting is something that runs good and makes people look at you, I'll make you a trade and I'll even come to Florida to make that trade. I have a 2003 Crown Vic Police Interceptor with 85k actual miles on it. I'll trade you even up my car for yours and everything that goes with it.

It's a true police interceptor with some nice options. 200-amp alternator, Fail-safe engine cooling system, Heavy-duty suspension and frame, Stainless steel dual exhaust, 3.27 Locker rear differential, Speed-sensitive variable-assist power rack-and-pinion steering (Handles really good)  and the list goes on.

All you gotta do is get in and start it. When you mash on the gas pedal it knows exactly what you want to do and it does it really well. And I can assure you that you will see more cars do nose dives in the first hour of driving it than you have seen in your entire life. 

Thow in a 69 daytona and you've got a deal

[500hp_440]

just saved your picture & posted it Ryan     is this the area , looks to me need to make , it & cut & remove the entire piece  & fabricate a new one or part of one

Thanks, thats what I'm doing, cut the tops off and panel bonding on metal circles to cover the holes