Where do i start?

[FLG]

OK guys/gals

Within the next couple of weeks i will be ordering alot of sheetmetal for my car. Floors, trunk, trunk extensions, quarters, also need to replace the rear frame rail...probably just replace them both. Think im going to go with the auto rust tech stuff. They sell the Safe-T-Cap frame repair caps. Will this be safe and work? One rail is partially rotted the other heavily rusted.

Now my family has a auto shop and my cousin will be helping me with all of this and ive worked there for awhile so i know enough..but i havent and i dont think he ever has done a job as involved as this. We never do full restos simply because the work involved is too much and you never know whats lying under that old metal so we dont want the responsibility.

So for those of you that have done this before. Can i just get some tips or ideas, where do i start? I also want to put sub-frame connectors on her, at what point do i do that? I know the car needs to be on the floor but should i wait until i get a new floor in and everything else done? Can i do the subframe connectors with the engine and tranny out or does there need to be that weight in the car so they go in correctly?

How do i saftely support the car while im doing these repairs so nothing gets tweaked?

I apprechiate your guys help and i hope to have all the body finished by the summer for next year. As for the engine and tranny i want a 512 stroker but i think thats going to have to wait.

[lisiecki1]

i put my subframe connectors in with the engine/trans out....make sure you put the car up on 4 jackstands (on the frame!) and level it before you weld the connectors in (this is just a good recommended practice)

oh, and please let me know where you get your rear skins from....just found out i'll have to do some replacing on mine also.....

[Mike DC]

1.  Get a set of the factory frame dimensions.  Have them ready just in case.  Measure some basics before you cut it up.

2.  Weld some bracing in the car (before any heavy stuff is cut away) to keep it straight & level while it's cut apart.  Think like a rollcage - lots of diagonals, and it's most important just to bridge the largest openings.  It can just be some pretty lightweight small tubing or angle iron and still do the job well.

3.  Re-measure those basic dimensions after you get it back together if you're concerned about anything. 



The tolerances on these cars were really not great to start with from panel-to-panel.  Not great at all.  And yet certain major things were held in place by vertical bars (through the round holes in the subframe rails, etc) on the assembly line while the skin was being welded onto them.  So the smaller dimensions can vary all over the place but the BIG issues were usually within 1/4th-1/2 inch of perfect from one end of the car to the other. 

 

[riggs626]

dont go with caps just weld in a new repo or god old stock frame rail looks better and works alot better

[FLG]

Thanks guys 

Unless someone knows of places that sell repo rails for a 73 im going to have to find some good stock ones.

[gasoline_24]

I went with a full frame section for the back and it is much easier to go this route than to do individual pieces.  The one piece can really only go in one way.  There are enough contours and angles that it can only go in one way and should be nearly dead on.

[AutoRust]

I went with a full frame section for the back and it is much easier to go this route than to do individual pieces.  The one piece can really only go in one way.  There are enough contours and angles that it can only go in one way and should be nearly dead on.

No one sells any replacement rails for the 71-74 B-body cars. And based on the wind under the tea leaves, it does not look like AMD, or Goodmark will be doing any in the near future. There primary mission has been the 68-70 B-body. 
The caps are strong, very safe, and with some minor creative welding and grinding, you can make them disappear. They are thicker steel then the factory, and very easy to install, way easier then jigging up the car on a frame machine, and bracing it all over the place.  Finding a good used rail is not very easy anymore, and everyone I have seen removed from a donor car needs a lot of attention before you can install them. If you have a factory original Hemi car, or something real "special", then nothing but the best of everything should be put on it, and the blank check should be handed over to Gibson or someother high end shop.
I would recommend putting the sub-frame connectors in before you do anything else to the car. With or without Motor really does not matter, as long as the car is supported under the 4 wheels/suspension.
Good luck with your project, Take your time, and have fun doing it. Oh yea and keep us posted on the progress. 

[lisiecki1]

if you want some pictures of competition engineering weld in subframe connectors in a 73 let me know and i'll take some and post them up for you.....

[a192074m]

www.autobodyspecialt.com    they have stuff there>> i got the catalog and u can get pretty much all of that and factory stickers 

[FLG]

lisiecki1, id like to take you up on that offer. Also do you have a site where i can order them?

AR,

Thanks for the info on the caps. The only thing that concern's me going this route is i do want to put a 512 Stroker motor in the car along with a cage. So i dont want to worry about the car twisting around from the torque.

Thanks,

Frank

[lisiecki1]

http://www.competitionengineering.com/catalog/CategoryDisplay.asp?CatCode=10054

that's the direct link to the frame connector page on their site....

and i'll take some pictures asap, but it may not be till this weekend because it's dark when i get home from work...

[FLG]

Thanks!

[AutoRust]

AR,

Thanks for the info on the caps. The only thing that concern's me going this route is i do want to put a 512 Stroker motor in the car along with a cage. So i dont want to worry about the car twisting around from the torque.

Frank, actually the caps will be a big improvement for your car if you do put a monster motor in there. They are made from thicker metal then original, and can really take the structural loads better then original.
Give us a call if you would like more info, I would much rather talk about old Mopars then do any "real" work !!
800-407-7024   

Dave


Don't forget, Charger.com members get a 10% discount     

[lisiecki1]

i'll be taking those pictures tomorrow, do you want me to post them in the thread here or email them to you?

[FLG]

Thanks Dave,

Might be a bit before im ready to order, but i will be going with the caps. I took another look at the rail..only really bad the last 6" or so but i just want to cap both of them.

lisiecki1 you can post em up here 

Thanks guys

[superbirdtom]

as long as it is a hardtop you don't have to worry about the body sagging, just tourquing and twisting, tack both subframe connectors in at the same time and every weld you do on one side copy it on the other, usually i will weld in 2 inch beads like torquing down a wheel. of course you can use the heat absorbing clay gunk around welding area.

[FLG]

Thanks Tom.

Any ideas on sorting parts? I figure Zip lock bags labeled with a picture of the part installed should do. Dont want to have to guess and have some bolts leftover.

[superbirdtom]

yes  label and bag all parts , our memories are only good for so many parts  good luck!

[lisiecki1]

apparently my seals on my jack went out since the last time i used it, i'm getting a new one today so i'll get those pics up asap.

[FLG]

 

No rush, not going to get started till after the holidays

[superbirdtom]

No rush, not going to get started till after the holidays >>>>>>I thought magnumforce racing carried subframe connectors?

[FLG]

They do. But dont know who has them installed 

[superbirdtom]

oh you want to know the fit and strength and quality from someone who has used them before.  if thats  so can't help ya there . but wow I picked up the new mopar rag yeaterday and another new company popped up selling all kinds of suspension parts and subframe connectors.

theres the kind that intrude into the passenger foot area, there are giant x brace connectors, there are bolt on connectors.  I have seen people tear apart their rockers and weld in tubing inside of the rockers. but in my experience  hardtops usually don't need them just ragtops . i have a 70 cuda vert and its gonna get them for sure.  take care tom