WHICH 440 TO BUY ????

[daytonalo]

I WAS OFFERED ONE OF THREE 440 ENGINES TODAY , I WOULD LIKE TO INSTALL A STROKER KIT AND SIX-PACK AND INSTALL IN MY DAYTONA JUST TO HOLD ME OVER UNTIL I HAVE THE FUNDS TO BUILD ANOTHER HEMI , WHICH OF THE FOLLOWING WOULD BE BEST OR ARE THEY THE SAME
72 IMP 440
67 WAGON 440
68 NEW YORKER WAGON 440

[Rolling_Thunder]

If you're going to replace the rotating assembly and induction the only difference would be the heads really unless you're going to replace those too...       I would go with the 67 or 68 myself but honestly i dont really think it matters with what you'll be doing

[jerry]

72, better block.casting is different then the other 2. they are all 3 good but you ask.

[tan top]

pretty sure the 67 block has not got stiffening ribs on the out side of the block .....  thats the only difference i'm aware of ....  & i have always thougt ...... latter blocks  had a figure of 8 cooling passages ..on the top side of the deck ... &  slightly thicker webbing  on the crank journal , but not sure ..what year .....   ... from 74 i think 
  any one will be ok !.... get the one on standard bore if you can !!

[Chatt69chgr]

There is a good write-up on blocks on the 440Source website.  I believe the good closed chamber head was used on the 67.  I think it's the 915.  The others used the open chambered head which are not much desired right now.  Also, the 67 and 68 would have forged steel cranks.  So if you could sell the crank and the head off of the 67, it might yield you some $$.  The 72 may or may not have the forged steel crank.  I don't think the figure 8 cooling passages came in until 75.  I think it's correct that the 67 and 68 didn't have the stiffening ribs but a quick look at the 440Source website will tell you.  For your use, I would probably consider the 72 block.  But I would tend to want the block that is in the best condition.  No broken engine mount ears for example.  You will have to probably do a minimal 30 over bore on any of them due to what's available piston wise without getting custom pistons.  So the one with the least bore wear would be preferrable.  I wouldn't get one if I had to go more than 30 over.  Now if the blocks were already torn down and you had the $$, and all three were equal o/w, then you could have them all sonic tested and choose the one with the most "meat" as it were.  You might want to do this anyway on the one you end up with to ensure you don't get one that had core shift.  The hardness of the cast iron on all three should be the same.  Chrysler didn't go to the "softer" cast iron until mid 75.
I'd be interested in hearing about your project as you progress.  What rotating assembly, what head, cam, etc. you end up choosing and why.  Do you already have the 6-pk setup or are you going to have to buy that?  Sounds like a real interesting project.

[daytonalo]

Thanks for the input ! Last winter i built a 472-550 hp alum head hemi for my Daytona replica , but someone offered me 15 k and I sold it . These 440 engines are in non HP cars , does that make a diff?

Larry

[Steve P.]

Not unless you are doing the numbers thing..

I would look at all the motors available and make a determination on which looks to be the best block. Miles? Condition under valve covers? Fluids. In running condition or hood and air cleaner gone for years? Everything has a determining point...

I would say that if all were equal condition wise I would check the head numbers and if the 67' is a 67' with 915's that would be my choice just to offset your build costs.

[firefighter3931]

I would go with either the 68 or the 72 

The strengthening ribs on the side of the block are a plus....especially in a stroker type build. 


Ron

[RallyeMike]

I agree with Ron, and between the two I'd pick the one that has std. bore and is undamaged. If you can verify the one that may not have ever been opened up, and that it rotates freely, that's the one I'd go for.

[daytonalo]

What is the HP rating on a 68 New yorker 440 ??

Larry

[RallyeMike]

Irrelevant really, but it's was 350.

[daytonalo]

Just curious

[daytonalo]

So what made it only 350 hp ? Comp ? Heads ? cam ?

[Ghoste]

Camshaft is different.  Are the exhaust manifolds a little more restrictive as well?

[daytonalo]

The reason I ask is , I might just throw a quick refresh new cam go 30 over , bump comp to . 11-1 and just use it to get my car on road .

[firefighter3931]

So what made it only 350 hp ? Comp ? Heads ? cam ?

Camshaft, valve springs, exhaust manifolds and pistons....everything else was basicly the same.


Ron

[daytonalo]

Thanks ! So in theory , I could change cam , bump comp , new springs and manifolds and get 400 hp ? The increase would be from comp . If I decided to just have stock stroke , which year of NON -hp 440 would be best ? 67,68 or the 72 that was offered me ?

[Steve P.]

If all you are looking for is 400 hp you could easily do it with any of the three you are asking about. The 67 and 68 should have steel cranks in them. A cast crank is good for 400 hp. but a steel crank is alllllways better.  So I stick with my earlier post and say go for the 67' and sell off the heads to help offset costs.. There are still plenty of people looking for them.

Check out the PROVEN builds. I'm sure you will find something in there to fit your needs..

[daytonalo]

Thanks ! I might just keeo the heads on it and slap a 6-pac on

[Steve P.]

I would have them checked and get a firm price on doing them up before making that choice. You could sell them and use that money toward a nice set of Eddy. heads. You will get much more for less that way...

I say this because you plan on machining the block for new pistons anyway. Why not go for a reallly nice build that will be on about the same budget...

[daytonalo]

I'm buying all three , the engines are completely dressed including carb and trans

[Ghoste]

Excellent decision Larry. 

[tan top]

I'm buying all three , the engines are completely dressed including carb and trans

   good idea