More Electrical Issues

[BlueSS454]

Ok so since I fixed a bunch of small things yesterday (wiper motor, trunk light, map light, hood turn signals), now the damn headlights don't work. I checked all the fuses, they are good. The running lights come on just fine. Anyone have an idea on this? Seems kind of odd since the headlights worked yesterday while I was checking everything. I'm hoping the headlight switch didn't go bad.

Other thing is, the A/C compressor comes on when the heater is on, I know it should come on with the defroster, but not the heater and I think the compressor is now fried because of that. I was going down to Vineland with the car today and it started squealing and bogging the engine, unplugged the power to stop it.

Last thing is, the ride to the Pumpkin Run, it was discharging and showing 10 volts. Now it's charging and showing 14-16 volts which I think is a bit too high. Shouldn't it be between 13.7-14.2? Maybe a voltage spike out of the alternator?

I'm gonna have to replace the dash harness at some point too. I found 2 melted wires at the fuse block.

[resq302]

Tom, which wires were melted at the fuse block?  Check your connections at the bulk head as they were known to get crusty over the years.  When I put mine back together, I globbed dielectric grease in there.

[BlueSS454]

OK, headlights are working now, it was something stupid...high beam plug came off...not sure how that happened.  I haven't figured out the coltage issue yet though.  I'm going to put my digital voltage meter on some various points in the electrical system and see what the readouts are.  The one melted wire is a fusible link that goes from the bulkhead connector to the fuse block.  I know what caused that though, that was when the alternator went bad on my way to work.
I have every other electrical component working now except the headlamp on buzzer.  I have to finish installing the wiring tomorrow.

[resq302]

Tom,

Maybe someone can correct me if I am wrong, but I thought the headlamp on buzzer was on 70 models and up only for B Bodys.  I know my 69 doesnt have it.

[Charger-Bodie]

I had a 69 Charger that had the buzzer. Someone may have rigged it in there ,but it had it an it worked properly.

[1969chargerrtse]

My 69 has it ( and it works ).  I read somewhere that it came with the car that year.

Just found it in my original Dodge Charger brochure.  "STANDARD EQUIPMENT"  These items are standard equipment on the "standard" Charger models. 
BLA bla bla bla.........Charger "Light group"*   (Includes ash tray,glovebox light, map light, trunk compartment light, time-delay ignition switch light,
"and head-lamp-on reminder-it buzzes when the door is opened)"

Then down on the bottom
* Starred items are also available at extra cost, on other Charger models.

[BlueSS454]

I got everything hooked up as far as the accessory lights go, but the light buzzer doesn't work....I think the relay is bad...I'm not worried about it though.

However, I still can't figure out why it's overcharging.  I tried everything, added a ground to the voltage regulator, changed regulators, I still can't figure out why it's reading so high.  3 of the circuits on the fuse block are reading 14.9, 2 are reading 15.5, and the headlight reads the normal 12 when they are on and 0 when off.  I'm at a loss here.

[Ghoste]

What are you running for an alternator?

[BlueSS454]

Just a stock one for a 1970 Charger.  I got that one just because of the electronic ignition.  I was thinking th ebattery may have a bad cell in it causing the alternator to kick into overdrive to compensate.  I'm gonna put another battery in it tomorrow and see what it does.

[BlueSS454]

I think I might have found the problem.....

There is a melted wire that goes from the fuse block and joins up in a conglomeration of power wires and routes to the main power feed in the bulkhead connector.  Shorted out melted wires = more resistance = more load to pump voltage through. 
Now since the harness is in the car, I do not know how far it melted and/or if it affected any of the other 4 wires that are soldered together in the middle of the harness.  I also noticed that it melted 2 terminals on the bulkhead connecter.  1 is the main power feed on the middle connector.  The other is the fusible link that goes to the starter relay.....that one is a simple fix.  The other, a not so simple fix....I'm going to order a dash harness from Year One.  The thing I need to know before I order it is....is there anything I need to swap over besides the accessory harnesses that I just pretty much wasted my time putting in because I have to pull the whole dash out now, or is it a plug n play?

[Back N Black]

The YearOne harness is plug and play.

[MoparSam]

Yea plug and play. I all most lost my '68 to a rat's nest of wires that had been cut, spliced, and spliced more.  I didn't know about it till I drove to a friends house and it got dark on me and hit the headlight switch and nothing. So I parked it and drove home the next morning and after digging around....could pull the sheathing off the red lead on alt gauge and several other wires were melted.  Year One harnesses are one of the best upgrades I've done and the best $700.00 I've spent (rewired whole car).

[BlueSS454]

I'm going to order one sometime this month.  I have a 15% off code from Year One to help ease the $$ burden.  They dropped the price of the harness since the last time I checked too    I'm just not looking foward to pulling all that out of the car again.