hemigeno's Daytona restoration - a few more tweaks... again!

[hemigeno]

Last batch for now

[tan top]

.......those were good / intresting to look at (study) ..  making some good progress now ,    (hemigeno) that picture of the sail panel , why is there 4 holes drilled  two for the charger emblem & 2 for a SE badge . looking at all the pictures you have taken ,makes me wish i had taken lot more when i restored mine .  keep the pictures comming  i love seeing stuff like this ... ........

[UFO]

I dont think those holes in the sail panel are from a SE emblem.The distance between the stud and guide pin are 7/8".

[tan top]

I dont think those holes in the sail panel are from a SE emblem.The distance between the stud and guide pin are 7/8".

   
                 yep you are correct (UFO)     just had a look at a picture when i had my R/T SE in primer                   
                                            i wonder what they are for then
               
                           

[Ghoste]

Love the scoop and hood ornament.

[hemigeno]

Those holes in the sail panel puzzled me too - still don't know what to make of them.  They sorta look like SE emblem spacing to me too, but I haven't ever seen the backside of an SE emblem or measured the pin spacing.  I also don't have any "regular" Charger sail panel emblems around the office here to look at - do they have a guide pin?  Two guide pins?

Anyone have any ideas why there'd be two holes if there's only one guidepin?

My car is anything but an SE - it's about as stripped down as you could get (for a Daytona), so if anything it was a Hamtramck screw-up with an extra hole or two being drilled.

Hope I'm not boring you guys to tears with all these pics...

[Ghoste]

The threads been looked at over 1600 times so I'd say we aren't too bored.

[PocketThunder]

The Charger script only has two holes for the mounting pins.

[CharlieCharger]

I hope you get it on the road soon, looks good!

[69_500]

I had almost forgot about the Batman hood ornament on that other car. Thats a good look, I think you should ask Vance if you can get that mounted on the nose cone of your car instead when its finished.

I've went through the photo's that I took, and I'm putting them on a CD for ya Gene. I'm trying to sort through them and organize them so that they aren't so much of a random shot here and there, but shots of the same parts are in order.

I might not get that done on the CD but I'm trying to on my hard drive.

[UFO]

Hemigeno ,Heres the back of an SE emblem.7/8" center to center.
Is Vance`s shop doing the whole car? (As in interior,engine and reassembly)

[hemigeno]

Hemigeno ,Heres the back of an SE emblem.7/8" center to center.
Is Vance`s shop doing the whole car? (As in interior,engine and reassembly)

UFO, thanks for the picture.  I still dunno what's up with the "extra" holes on that sail panel of mine though.  If nothing else, they were consistent, since the same pattern that is on one side was drilled out the same way on the opposite side.  I'm open to any ideas about what that might be, but I'm thinking just a plain-old mistake.

Vance is doing the whole car, even though I'd love to be involved in some things.  Vance is such a pro at all the finer details (especially on the Daytonas), that I know I would be missing out on a whole lot of his experience if I only let him do part of the car.  I thought about doing at least some of the engine work myself, and I initially started to do that.  However, it was really going to compound the logistical problems if I did that.  Like most other things, I found out pretty quickly that Vance knows engines too - plus, I think he feels a little more comfortable putting everything together with him having first-hand knowledge of how the motor has been assembled.  He has a 340 6-pack T/A in his shop now that has some slightly disturbing engine noises.  That car's owner wanted to do his own engine work, and to really "fix" the probem now would meaning undoing countless hours of detailing work on the engine.  Not good.

Maybe tomorrow I can post some more pictures from my latest visit this past Saturday.  I went back up, this time to take a rear clip to Vance so that we could see if we could use the rear framerails and crossmembers on the Daytona.  Dave H., the guy that I bought the Daytona from, was able to go up with me - which was just pretty cool for him to see the car he owned for 20+ years.  It's a good thing that this clip had decent frame rails in it after all, since when we pulled up to Vance's shop Dave looks over and says "there's the frame from the Daytona sitting on that pile of scrap." 

 

[hemigeno]

I'm finally getting around to posting another batch of pics, from 3/17.

The first two are pictures of the rear clip that we took the framerails out of.  It was a B3 exterior, B7 interior, single exhaust car (don't know what engine), but the unique thing is that it had a pearl white V-top on it rather than a pure white top.  The framerails from this car were absolutely pristine.  Vance said that there was no pitting even on the inside of the rails when they took it apart.

The last two pictures are of the rear pan from my car after it had its original framerails removed.  Looks pretty bare!

[hemigeno]

A couple of shots showing the rear valance and corner, and two shots of the trunk extensions.

[hemigeno]

Two more shots of the missing framerails, and a couple more shots of some floor pan patches that were necessary

[daytonalo]

Nice work ! Is your body guy going to dig out the lead at the a-pillar to cowl area ? From my exp it may look fine but there is rust under this area that will eventually push up the lead , I have seen time and time again . I usually dig out lead and weld it solid and use long hair . Just my 2 cents . Larry

[hemigeno]

A couple of pictures of the K-frame, including the assembly date 1589 1, which decodes as the 158th day of '69, first shift.  That was a Saturday (June 7th), so I guess the stamping plant was running Overtime then to try and keep up with the orders??

The last two are a couple of fender detail shots. 

[hemigeno]

Nice work ! Is your body guy going to dig out the lead at the a-pillar to cowl area ? From my exp it may look fine but there is rust under this area that will eventually push up the lead , I have seen time and time again . I usually dig out lead and weld it solid and use long hair . Just my 2 cents . Larry

Larry, I wouldn't argue with your experience, and I do not know what Vance and his guys are going to do on that topic.  I've wondered about the rear plug and quarterpanel joint myself - hadn't thought too much about the cowl/A-pillar joint, but it makes sense.  At first, I was honestly hoping the whole car would be dipped rather than blasted, which would have alleviated situations just as you're describing.  The problem with that is it's too hard to neutralize ALL of the acid/rust remover - and that would probably have a worse impact than anything else.

They are taking some seams apart in the rear floor pan that look pretty decent, but you can see some slight indications that rust is just beginning to form at the seam.  They're doing a lot of things right, but I can't say they're doing it all perfectly.  I'm no expert, but I guess the only way to really fix everything would be to separate every panel, remove the rust, and put it back together?  That's probably not a practical solution, but again - I'm no expert.

I'll ask Vance next chance I get.

[Charger_Fan]

Holy crap, that B3 back end looks almost perfect! Even the 1/4's look good from here...even to the point of being an easy resto, maybe.
At least it's good stuff is going to a very worthy cause.

Do you wanna sell that tail panel if it doesn't get used?

[daytonalo]

Those guy's look first class !!!!!!! I wish I had a dollar for every b -body that has a crack in this area ! The rust under the lead that get in at the w/s gaskit is the problem .

[hemigeno]

Fender scoops, plus some close-ups of the part numbers (3412670 & 671)

[hemigeno]

Holy crap, that B3 back end looks almost perfect! Even the 1/4's look good from here...even to the point of being an easy resto, maybe.
At least it's good stuff is going to a very worthy cause.

Do you wanna sell that tail panel if it doesn't get used?

Grant, you are exactly right, there's a lot of useable sheet metal on that clip.  The trunk was toast, and there was a little rust around the sail panel/back glass area, but it wasn't too bad overall.  I'd be in trouble if I started selling parts off of it though... When I bought this Daytona, my agreement with Dave H. (who owned the Daytona and this clip both) was that I would use the quarters off of that clip for the Daytona.  When Vance decided to just patch in the Daytona's quarters, that meant I didn't need the ones off the clip.  As it turns out, I needed the framerails instead - so I "swapped" getting the quarterpanels from that clip for its framerails.  The rest of it belongs to Dave H., and I'd be in deep dutch if I tried to help ya out. 

Larry, the windshield channel was in pretty good shape, but I'm sure that looks could be deceiving.  Makes perfect sense what you're saying about the gasket area being the ultimate source of the problem.

[hemigeno]

The first pic is a shot of the patch panel mocked into place.  They still have a ton of work to do on this side, but they aren't patching nearly that much of the quarter.  Vance's crew needed to set this in place so they could locate the trunk extension panel.

The last two are shots of the old frame rails after they had been pulled off of the junkpile.  This past week, Vance's guys welded the old framerail back under that B3 rear clip and put the old springs under it also.  That will allow it to be transported back to Iowa without damaging those nice quarterpanels in the process.  Once Dave H. gets the clip back, he said he's going to cut the spot welds out of the framerails, and hang the Daytona's old frame up on the garage wall as artwork...  That'd be pretty cool - wish I would have thought of it first!

[daytonalo]

I paged back and noticed they had a problem at the d/s joint at a-pillar , pass what I said onto your resto guy ! Just trying to help and avoid a poss headache in the future .

[Aero426]

Gene, I am not being critical, this is a question you should ask - and that is "How is he going to make sure the new rails are welded back in at the correct length width and height?"      He has a Chief rack, and hopefully he has the measuring equipment to go with it. 

One thing that they do up at John Balow's MCR shop in Wisconsin, is they have a Blackhawk dedicated bench, which is essentially a surface plate like a race car shop would use.  They actually have built fixtures to the factory control points.  Your four torque box areas fit on the fixtures, as well as the front and rear rails - just like the factory did.   That really is the ultimate setup when you are working on the same kinds of cars.    It also can be done by hand with a tram guage, or better yet, a three dimensional measuring system.   There is no right or wrong way to do it, just easier and faster.  These cars are not super tight from a dimensional standpoint, but whatever method,  I'd just want to be sure it's correct!