Dan's Long Annoying Engine Problem Thread

[bordin34]

I am still troubleshooting my engine problems that have been occurring since easter. I have been hearing some bad things about the Holley Street Avengers like on my car and similar issues to what I am having. Somebody also cross-threaded a jet on the primary side. My floats are also different the primary one is brass while the secondary is plastic. I want to be sure that the carb is or is not the problem but do not have a spare and the one time I had a spare, the ballast went bad. So, can anybody lend me a carb for an afternoon?
Thanks,
Dan

[bordin34]

Here is my latest theory after going to a cruise night with a help sign. Rust or debris stirred up in the tank and clogging the sock or fuel filter.

[mikepmcs]

Dan,
That cross threaded jet can't be helping much either IMO.  I wish I lived closer, I'd lend you  mine.


I'm guessing you no longer have the other car with the 318?

v/r
Mike

[bordin34]

My other Charger has been long gone and probably in Croatia by now. I wrote down the numbers on the metering block but can't find any that match to get a replacement. Also, i don't think the secondaries are working much if at all because the fuel I drained out of the bowl was piss yellow.

[bordin34]

I change my mind a lot on the theory as to why this is happening. Right now it is that the distributor can't keep time right. I just remembered that when I had the timing light on it awhile back that the light would randomly jump around sometimes.  This is in addition to what I believe could be carb problems.
My theory will change almost daily if I have touched the car. Hopefully I can get a compression gauge soon and run the test that I should have done 6 months ago.

[bordin34]

Today I check some more things.
I removed about 5 plugs and all of them were oily and smelled like oil. The passenger side however was more oily.
I also removed the distributor and the reluctor or whatever that spinny 8 sided thing is hits the pickup.

[bordin34]

Another update- I bought some feeler gauges and set the gap at .008" the car still seems to run the same. The vacuum advance works and it doesn't seem like there is any noticeable play in the distributor. I set the timing decently and it still surges at idle. Partial throttle drive ability seems improved. Also because the timing is not spot on it backfires under anything other that partial throttle. Another thing I found was "EP-45" on the camshaft.
I replaced the fuel filter again and there was some rust in the old one but I think that's normal. I also fixed a pinhole in the valve cover.
My new theory is that my problem is a combination of ignition and carburation. I might get a summit digital ignition box and see if it helps, but before that I need to do a compression check.

[bordin34]

Here is my latest theory after setting the timing right and driving it...
I believe my secondaries are not working right if at all and that is why is backfires when given more throttle but doesn't when given gradual throttle.

[FLG]

Have you tried making your secondaries open earlier?

[bordin34]

I have not done anything on the carb really. I don't have another spring to adjust the secondaries with. I believe they are not working because the fuel I drained out of them was a rich amber color.

[bordin34]

My new theory, it really changes a lot. I think the timing chain jumped a tooth and the carb is bad.

[r73mopar]

i just had a simalar problem with mine and it turned out to be the ballast resister. i checked carb,plugs,wires,ignition, distributer, i bought all new and then turd out to be a 6 dollar part. that stunk!!!

[bordin34]

already been replaced.

[firefighter3931]

I removed about 5 plugs and all of them were oily and smelled like oil. The passenger side however was more oily.

It sounds like you have bad valveguide seals and oil is making it's way into the combustion chamber. This will hurt the air/fuel mixture and make the engine run poorly. Fouled plugs don't fire very well....



Ron

[bordin34]

That was one of my previous theories. I cleaned all the plugs once and it ran great until I shut it off, then total crap. I think I mentioned it in one of my other threads. I ordered a compression gauge and I will do a compression check then go from there. Also there is sometimes oil burned at start up and sometimes not. I think that is also why it ran much better when I bypassed the ballast.

[FLG]

Bordin. If your not busy this weekend ill come up. Dont know if you will have it by then but ill bring my compression checker, timing light and if you want pic up a double roller chain, the gaskets, and some anti-freeze and ill bring the pulley puller and we can change the chain.

[bordin34]

Thanks for the offer, but this weekend does not work out for me. Perhaps some other time.

[FLG]

Sure just shoot me a PM. Im usually free during the week too.

[bordin34]

Here are my compression test readings they seem low to me but they are pretty much even.
1-110psi       2-100psi
3-110psi       4-110psi
5-105psi       6-110psi
7-110psi       8-100psi

[mikepmcs]

Dan, that does seem low to me as well.
Unless of course the compression gauge is off....

I know that is no help but looking 130+++(ballpark, most likely more) is more in the range.
Not saying that is exactly the issue but could be a combo of things IMO

[FLG]

Engine warm or cold? I know your supposed to do it warm but hell its way to hard to fit fingers under 400 exhaust manifolds with the damn inner fender so close. If they were done cold there really not bad. You have to remember 400's were smog blocks...lower compression.

[bordin34]

I did it warm and used a screw in type but I really couldn't get it as tight as I wanted to.

[bordin34]

My newest theory is I have bad valve guide seals and the compression is low because the timing chain jumped.

[mikepmcs]

Dan

I'm just gonna throw this out there, why would the compression be bad because the timing chain jumped.  In my opinion the otto cycle is the same no matter what(expansion, cooling, compression, and combustion.)  Piston goes up and down creates the combustion or in this case the compression.....timing should have nothing to do with that part...right?
ok, I do see the thinking behind that though it just doesn't seem to me to be the answer.  If of course you are thinking that it is not making the full throw, but I'm still having a hard time gettin my head around that one.
were/are you blowing smoke as well??  what are the plugs doing now...still looking crappy??

v/r
Mike

[bordin34]

I was occasionally blowing smoke at startup but recently it has gotten worse. The plugs were misted with oil when I pulled them to do the compression check. I am going to clean and re-install them and if it runs better I will replace the valve guide.
My thoughts behind the timing chain jump and the compression is that it starts sucking air in later and compresses later with less stroke.
I also have a bottle of marvel mystery oil, a couple ounces of atf, and dry gas in the tank. I am running 87 octane regular.