69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.

[cudaken]

 Next, a new and pretty cheap tool. Hand held sand blaster, I bought mine of a snap on truck for only $40.00. Hum, shortley after that he was sh-t canned?

It is great for hard to hit spots like under the hood in the hood ribs or the the fenders where the bolt on to the inner fenders of Mopars

[cudaken]

 OK guys what you have been waiting for! The Rust shoots! By the way, just get a bucket now to blow into! Will have some details Wed on the reapairs.

                          Cuda Ken                           

[twilt]

Ken, I just wanted to say thanks for sharing all this great information with us. 

[cudaken]

 Are you the real JUNKYARD DAWG from the old site?

                                 Ken

[twilt]

I didnt go by that name on the old site. My user Id on the old site was the same as it is here. . On the old site, I did make several "junkyard dawg
strikes again"  posts about my junkyarding adventures,  showing some of the Mopar stuff that i find. I love junkyards. i go junkin at least one day every week. too bad they are closed tommorow, i`d rather go junkin than sit around getting fatter eating all day.

[cudaken]

Twilt, there was a guy that had that name on the old site that I use to help him with his I think 73 Charger bodywork. Gueessing that was not you. But thanks for reading anyway.

                                              Cuda Ken

[doitmopar]

Hey Ken on the first page you put the guide coat on over the epoxy primer,do you sand the primer first or spray the guilde coat and then sand?Do you use a gravity feed hvlp or a pressure pot hvlp.Thanks for your great thread.Ted!!! 

[nh_mopar_fan]

Ken,

Thanks for taking the time to document and educate. This is really really great stuff.

[cudaken]

Sorry I have be so remiss about posting about the AMX. Last week I felt like crap and this week I was busy running around. Anyway I am back on it.

Doitmopar. Ted, before shoot the guide coat I scuffed the primer with a Scotch Bright pad then shot the guide coat. When you ask what kind of gun I am using, you mean for the primer or the guide coat? Guide coat is in a spray can, I am using SEM 38203. Gun I have used so far is a Sharp Colbalt HVLP with a 1.8 head.

Once's again nh_mopar_fan you are welcome.

Not much to show today. I did get back on the RFF Fender. One thing I have found is 80% of the when body work is not right, the filler will be to high. It was the case in the RFF as well. If you look real close at the PIC with it in the first coat of primer you might see it in the center. My self, I rather have to much VS to little filler. Hit it with the air file with 150 grit. It showed the high filler fast. After I buzzed it down I used guied coat and with a paint stick. Still going faster than the LFF.

[cudaken]

 Blocked all the other parts but did not bother to post. Front of the hood is done, rear of the hood is ready for Spary On Bondo. Will post part numbers and PC Friday.

[cudaken]

 OK, here is a nother tip. I have not been spaying primer on the whole hood, just spots that needed the primer. I am also using a HVLP gun that does not have a make a lot of over spary. BUT there was over spay every where on the hood. Can not see it, but if you run your hand across it you can feel it. Hood is close along with over body parts. Make sure you knock off the lose primer over spary before final priming of the panel. It could cause peeling later on.

                               Cuda Ken

[cudaken]

 Few more PIC. I think I posted before about Metal To Metal by Evercoat so I will not give great details. It is a aluminum paste with a hardener.   Reason it works better than plactic filler it will not let moister through to the metal. Next best thing to a metal patch.

Next new tool is a Air Nippler, used to cut sheet metal. Need to play with it a liitle before you go at it. Punches out say a 1/8" section of metal real fast. It is easy to control and will make turns. Onlt down side is the scrap that is left. Little U Shape metal that will need to be sweep up. Sit on them? Hope your wife loves you! Cutting punch is hard to find for them I will add. I have 3, 2 are dull and cannot find the punch part. I bought this week from Harbor Freight for $30.00 Central Pneumatic # 46061.

On the metal to metal, after the metal is clean spread it on. It is harder to mix than filler, hardner is clear and tuff to judge when mixed right. Sands harder than normal filler as well. Another plus is it harder than normal plactic filler. If you have to go say over a 1/4" of filler, use the metal to metal to get the repair close, will not crack as fast then use plactic filler on top.

In my case, 1 coat of metal to metal, then filler over the top.

                                      Cuda Ken

[cudaken]

 Opps, for got the PIC's

Where Metal to Metal really comes in handy is on surfaces rust and where it is not practail to make a metal patch. When I first did my 69 Charger long before this site, or when I had a computer in fact, led edge of the Charger fender had heavy pin holes in it.

Pic is of the area but no the same fender. I used the metal to metal on the led edge and last for 7 years. I had metal patch's not last that long.


                               

[cudaken]

 Got the rust cut out of the quarter today as well. I cut of the outer skin and where it wraps around the outter wheel well housing. Rearson I cut it off the outter wheel well housing is so the replacement metal will be flush.

With this being a AMX there are no replair panel's that I know of. So I am going to use what is called Flex Edge. It is a pre cut metal made for repairs on wheel well lips like the AMX.

[cudaken]

Next new item is one of 41 Husk's favorites! Spray on Bondo.

First, this is very hard to work with in one respect, it is hard to spray. I am using Mar-Hyde 2-K Polyester Primer #4533. It takes a gravity feed gun with a 2.2 head or bigger. It is thicker than heck, so thick it will not go threw a strainer. What I found works best is while you are spraying, in between coats, empty the primer out of the gun and running thinner threw the gun. Seems the air it self will cause it to start to set up while spraying!

Make sure you clean your gun real well when done, if it set's up in your gun, just throw it away. Guys that worked for me killed one of my guys with it.

Where I find this to be the most help is on hoods where you need to level alot. Sense I had it mixed up I used it on the right front fender as well.


                       Cuda Ken

[41husk]

Ken I hope you ment Killed one of your guns not guy's

[41husk]

Ken this is Eric the car is looking good. Keep up the good work but do more blocking and less posting  How close are we to paint?

[jaak]

Hey Ken, Jaak again, I been keepin' up with this post. I got a ? about the metal 2 metal filler.  On one of my chargers quarters I removed some sloppy bondo work from previous owner, after removing the doh, I see where it was pulled out (pretty close, actually) with possibly a slide hammer (has 15- 20 drill holes), my ? is ,  is the metal body filler strong enough to fill the holes with, them come back over the area with a skim coat of body filler? (ps- it is the area between door jam and front of rear wheel arch, 4-5 inches below center body line). Keep up the kick ass educational courses!!! Heck I may need to send you a case of "frosty" beverages to pay my tuition, LOL.

[cudaken]

Jaak, more than likely normal filler would work just fine. When you smear the filler on (high teck there folks) the holes will give the filler something to hang on to. Metal to metal is harder, but the holes them self is not a problem.

              Cuda Ken

[cudaken]

 OK. lets try gluing on on the metal patch. After the patch was fitted to the hole I went head and drilled and tested riveted on the panel. In this case it is the Flex Edge but would be the same if it was a metal patch or repair panel.

The glue I am using is SEM's 39537 Weld Bond. I am using a speical gun for the glue, but can be bought in smaller packages and mixed by hand. What you cannot see in the PIC is a nozzel that mixes the two part glue as it comes out of the gun.

[cudaken]

 Before the patch was installed I used a 36 grit and cleaned both panels for a good bond. Glue must be used on bare metal!

With this repair I used a plactic spreader to smooth out the glue. On the inside of the wheel well I used the glue but could not get as clean as I wanted. I will leave the rivets in places just to make sure in the bond fails in that spot the filler will not crack.

If you do not want to use the glue, you could just use the rivets. Only thing you would do driffrent is sink the metal a little more and grind the rivets heads down just a little more.

Repair area was counter sunk but does not show up in the PIC's. After the glue was spread I used steel rivets to hold in places.

Working time of the glue is 45 minutes. Means you can move around, this is very help full when replacing a full quarter.

Set time is 4 hours, at this time glue should be frim and hold the panel in places.

Cure time is 8 hours.

[cudaken]

 Next the spray on Bondo. Why Allen said it was hard to sand is beyone me. This stuff saved me 4 coats of high fill primer. It one of the best things I have ever used.

First I knocked down the ruff stuff with 150 grit paper on a paint stick. Shoot some guide coat and started with 150 again then went with 220 on a paint stick.

Next I sanded the whole hood with 220 grit to knock off the over spay.

[cudaken]

Hood is finally done. It will not be perfect but will no longer look like I was jumping up and down on it. Like I said at the start of this long winded posting "Primer hides everything"! Hard to believe I have 12 hours if not more in the hood a lone.

Hood is in it's last coat of high fill primer. Where there is filler I will stick one last time with 220 grit, then the hood as a whole will be sanded with the memory block with 220 then 400 and will be ready for paint.

                               Cuda Ken

[Charger_Fan]

On the rear wheel metal patch, I was surprised you didn't clean the rust off the metal beneath the patch. Do you figure why bother, because the metal under the parts you didn't repair is rusty too?

How well do those house plants like primer & bondo dust?

[CB]

youeven got the blessing of an angel