Vibrations

[firefighter3931]

She looks and sounds great Per...  Great job....   

Nice work buddy ! 


You're gonna like that Proform 750....i recommended that carb to one of our moderators (Chris > Just69charger) and he noticed an immediate improvement over the standard holley 750 vaccum carb : cleaner idle, stronger vacuum signal and sharper throttle response. 

Chris is also running an engle k56 cam. 



Ron

[Belgium R/T -68]

Recieved the Proform 750 today but there was no instructionmanual with it. Hope this will get it running because with the holley
I have to set the timing different depending if the engine is cold or warm.

Concerning the vacuum hose connection for the distributor, there is 2 next to each other, does it matter which one I take?

[firefighter3931]

Recieved the Proform 750 today but there was no instructionmanual with it. Hope this will get it running because with the holley
I have to set the timing different depending if the engine is cold or warm.

Concerning the vacuum hose connection for the distributor, there is 2 next to each other, does it matter which one I take?

Just bolt it on, set the idle mixture with a vacuum guage on all 4 corners (4 corner idle  ) and set the idle speed. Jetting should be good to go. Take a look at the float level....fuel should be halfway up the sight glass on the side of the bowl, both front and back. Adjust if necessary but i doubt you will have to.

Disconnect the vacuum advance and leave it disconnected....i never use them. Set the base timing to 16* at idle and have a look at the advance curve. It should reach 36-38* before 3000 rpm....if not you can tune that with the advance springs....but check it first. 

One thing i like to do is map out the timing curve in 200 rpm increments just to see what it's doing....then tune from there. 

If you haven't allready....install the Firecore wires. 


Let us know how you like it Per 




Ron

[Belgium R/T -68]

Recieved the Proform 750 today but there was no instructionmanual with it. Hope this will get it running because with the holley
I have to set the timing different depending if the engine is cold or warm.

Concerning the vacuum hose connection for the distributor, there is 2 next to each other, does it matter which one I take?

Just bolt it on, set the idle mixture with a vacuum guage on all 4 corners (4 corner idle  ) and set the idle speed. Jetting should be good to go. Take a look at the float level....fuel should be halfway up the sight glass on the side of the bowl, both front and back. Adjust if necessary but i doubt you will have to.

Disconnect the vacuum advance and leave it disconnected....i never use them. Set the base timing to 16* at idle and have a look at the advance curve. It should reach 36-38* before 3000 rpm....if not you can tune that with the advance springs....but check it first. 

One thing i like to do is map out the timing curve in 200 rpm increments just to see what it's doing....then tune from there. 

If you haven't allready....install the Firecore wires. 


Let us know how you like it Per 




Ron

Ron,
I think another reason it doesn't run while cold is that I have 2 different kind of plugwires so now I have big hopes for the GTX.
I also have a 1" open spacer I hope to get rid off. I never did any tuning since it was the carb from the 300.

[Belgium R/T -68]

Oops My new fuellines seems a little bit to big or? Anybody with experience before I start to bend and maybe destroy them?
I know if you have the wrong angle it can really be a PITA.

[Charger-Bodie]

Those are for a carb with front AND rear metering blocks.....That sucks

[Belgium R/T -68]

Those are for a carb with front AND rear metering blocks.....That sucks

That's strange, he only asked what size I had on the fuelline.

[Belgium R/T -68]

Indeed Brian, I tried them on my 850 for the Charger, at least I can use 1 of the 2 I bought.

The bad luck with the GTX just wouldn't stop.

[firefighter3931]

Per, Brian is correct....those lines are for a double pumper carb. I assumed you were getting a 750 double pumper for the GTX. Maybe i mixed the 2 carbs up....the other Proform you ordered is an 850 double pumper, correct ?

Anyway, it's not a big deal....you will have to cut and re-flare the front line at the brass "T" junction. It's better to have them too long....rather than too short ! 

Are both sets of lines the same ?



Ron

[firefighter3931]

Indeed Brian, I tried them on my 850 for the Charger, at least I can use 1 of the 2 I bought.

The bad luck with the GTX just wouldn't stop.

That's not bad luck....just a minor hiccup. 

Bad luck is when the rod comes out of the side of the block creating a window. 

Just to keep things in perspective....this is what i would consider BAD LUCK ;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9Kh-A08FAc

Well in your case, bad luck would have been lines that were too short....not too long. Easy fix buddy ! 



Ron

[Charger-Bodie]

Or if you dont feel comfortable reflaring the stainless steel, you could simply put a small hoopty in each line to effectivly narrow the width.

[Belgium R/T -68]

I guess a hoopty is what I did Bended both lines first upper outwards and then lower inwards.

[Charger-Bodie]

Yep! That exatly what I meant!! 

[firefighter3931]

Nesessity is the mother of invention 

Looks good Per ! 



Ron

[Belgium R/T -68]

Saturday is the big day, new carb and sparkplugwires, proper timingsetting. Time for the GTX to proove itself and for me to verify the rebuild.

[Belgium R/T -68]

Everything installed. Easy to work with the fuellines from Fabulous and also their bracket for the coil.
Had to use a 1" 4-hole spacer (did I say open to you Ron?) but the half would be enough, no I will have problem with the hoodclearence
if I use the MP aircleaner. Sparkplugcables looks great and easy to place since they are numbered.

Couldn' start today due to that either the NSS or the starterrelay has a problem and starting via the relay with a new carb is not my thing.

BTW, besides no instructionmanual Proform also don't deliver the stud for the aircleaner. I always worked with eddy so I have to get one of those to.

[firefighter3931]

Looks great Per...that is a nice, clean installation ! 

Yes, the 4-hole would be my preference with a stock intake manifold. You should be able to find that in the 1/2in thickness. 


Ron

[b5blue]

A very clean install!Are you using a stock big block vapor separator buy the fuel pump? 

[Belgium R/T -68]

A very clean install!Are you using a stock big block vapor separator buy the fuel pump? 

I'm not using a vapor separator.

[Belgium R/T -68]

I bought this timinglamp a while ago but never got the hang of it. Anybody with experience of how it works?

[Charger-Bodie]

hook it up to the #1 plug wire......Dial it to what you looking to set the timing at (say 36) , With The dial at 36 The light will flash on the zero mark on youre tab.....If youre looking to see what something is times at....Just Start the car with the light hooked up, Shine it and the marks, and simply turn the dial while wathing ,when the marks line up the dial will be at the timing you have.

[firefighter3931]

hook it up to the #1 plug wire......Dial it to what you looking to set the timing at (say 36) , With The dial at 36 The light will flash on the zero mark on youre tab.....If youre looking to see what something is times at....Just Start the car with the light hooked up, Shine it and the marks, and simply turn the dial while wathing ,when the marks line up the dial will be at the timing you have.

[Belgium R/T -68]

And if my timing isn't set on 36° it will not light or how shall I understand it? 

[firefighter3931]

Per,

A dial back light delays the strobe light in the amount of the # of degrees on the dial. With a standard (non dialback) light, in order to check total timing, you'd disconnect the vacuum advance, rev the motor to 3000-3500rpm (that's usually fast enough to ensure the distributor timing is maxed out), and you'd pull the trigger to check timing. Your timing mark will be way beyond the 10 degrees or so of your timing "tab".

Now, with a dial-back light, and the engine at 3000rpm, turn the dial and you'll see the timing mark on the balancer "retard" and move closer and closer to the 0-degree mark on the timing tab. Keep turning the dial until the timing mark lines up with the 0-degree mark, check to see how many degrees you've dialed in on the light, and that's your total timing.


That should get you going....


Ron

[Belgium R/T -68]

Thanks

Will try as soon as I solved the electrical problem.