New Mopar Neutral Start Pigtail and now Reverse lights in drive-SOLVED?????

[Mfr426]

Hey folks, just paid the $45 for the factory correct replacment neutral start end connector. This is the "boot" that goes over the 3 pins on the N/S switch and has about 10" of wiring on the end. I spliced in the wires carefully matching with the ones that were in the original harness (soldering them and then installing heat shrink tubing). Now I have reverse lights in reverse, drive, drive 2 and drive 1? I climbed under the car and flipped the boot around with no luck (I didnt think it could be that but tried). I still have the same issue?

Any thoughts? I dont want to cut up my new solder work to switch the wires in teh splice and all teh colors were carefully matched with the factory harness colors?

Why is this working this way?

BTW, the N/S function works fine and it does not have reverse lights in park or neutral.

Thanks for any hellp folks.

Mike R in Reading PA
69 Charger RT/SE 505

[Nacho-RT74]

WHAT??? $45 

FOR JUST THE PIGTAIL ?

I JUST PAID $30 FOR THE COMPLETE HARNESS FROM END TO END, new!!!!!... and NSS pigtail prices on ebay are around $20 ( Shorter wires though, about 4 inches, but Mopar part )...

sorry if is late to warning about!

Ok, I have NO IDEA about some electrical gremlim that could cause a fail like that. Cross brown and black wires ( traced or not ) would cause an INMEDIATLY SHORT burning some of the acc side fuses on block, since brown drives negative when P or N and the blacks drives positive.

Would check the switch itself, if not the internal tranny lever cam.

Thinking still on a probably electrical gremlin that I could be misising though!

[Mfr426]

When I needed mine and went on eBay they were all anywhere from $35-45 plus shipping. I needed it fast and went to the dealer. List was about $53.00.

Looks like I'll be pulling the switch this weekend. I thought I had my last tranny fluid bath for the summer when I put in my new TC.

[Nacho-RT74]

well you can check on wires/nss PLUG for power to be sure.

One of the black wires must have power ALLWAYS, in run and acc ign position... I think is the plain black one.

then JUST CONTINUITY on brown wire between starter relay plug or bulkhead and the NSS plug

and then JUST CONTINUITY on the other black wire ( traced I think ) with Violet wire on trunk plug.

NO CONTINUITY BETWEEN THEM AT ALL or with anything.

then when NSS gets the Reverse switch position on Tranny, the powered wire jumps the power to the other black wire and turns on the reverse lights.

[John_Kunkel]

Was everything working OK before the "boot" change?

If this is a new, previously untried installation the chances are that the shift lever (roostercomb) inside the trans is damaged or incorrect for the 3-prong switch.

[Mfr426]

The reverse lights worked fine before I spliced in the new pigtail. That's what has me puzzeled. As much as I dont wan to pull the NS switch, I think I have no choice.

[y3chargerrt]

If all you changed was the connector then problem should be there and not in the NSS.I've been troubleshooting electronics for 20 plus years and you always go back to the last thing you messed with!

[Mfr426]

I agree with the go back to the last thing you changed. It's three wires all color coded. Even a salesman can get that right... 

[Mfr426]

Looks like I found my problem. I pulled the NSS and looked into the trans. I did NOT see any plastic glide as I should have. Then it occured to me that this trans is the rebuilt one that we put in just before the 505 motor was done and it was a 68 trans. Apparently 68 has a differnet rooster comb since it does not have the reverse light feature incorporated into the comb. So, I pull the pan and sure enough it's a completly different unit than what I need to work with my 3 pronged NSS wiring harness.

I am now in search of a rooster comb that will work in this 68 trans that has the plastic slide for the NSS unit. Looks like the Charger will be out of commission for a week or so...

Anyone have any leads for this item? I think I might need the comb to come from a 69 or 70 trans as it looks like 71 might be different too? Can anyone comfirm this?

Thanks all for the help. The one upside is that I found a VB screw in my pan when I pulled the pan. Not sure how that happened but I'll be retightening all screws on reassembly.

Mike R

[y3chargerrt]

Mike. I had the same problem when I bought my Charger. It had a 67 trans, 3 prong switch with no bulbs in the back up lights. I ended up getting an NOS rooster comb from Brads.It wasn't that expensive but that was in 99/2000. Ron

[Mfr426]

Hey Thanks Ron, my buddy who did the trans rebuild just happens to have a 69 trans sitting in his basement. He's going to donate the part. We did the trans and since his car is a 68 the different comb never entered his mind until I mentioned it.

I'm going to check out Brad's NOS just in case his part is not in good shape. Thanks for the lead.

Mike

[John_Kunkel]

I think I might need the comb to come from a 69 or 70 trans as it looks like 71 might be different too? Can anyone comfirm this?

That's correct, only the '69-'70 will retrofit to the earlier valve body, '71 and later is different.

[Mfr426]

I put in the newer 69 comb and sure enough, it solved the problem. I was lucky that he had one available.

Thanks all.

Mike R in Reading PA
69 Charger RT/SE Clone 505/510